Stage 2 TT: 2011 2.0 TFSI w/ Valve Lift
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Well what I didn't mention before was, when I got my car up on scales for corner balancing... it was already spot on. Sooo I had been driving around with a balanced car all along. Thus, I have no point of reference with it out of balance. Dumb luck? Or does this just speak to how well suspension components just line up and slot into the TT?
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226 Posts
O2 sensor issues and other things...
It has been a while since I posted an update here... so here it is:
For over a year, because I was lazy, I drove around with a dead post cat O2 sensor. When I finally got around to tossing a new one in there, about a week later it died. Wtf I said. So I bought another, and tossed it in. Week or so later, dead again.
My car may have been munching O2 sensors because of its position and being positioned such that condensation would stay stagnant around the sensor, thus shorting it out.
Being in NYS, I have to pass inspection every year or risk a nice ticket and a fine. With the O2 sensor issues, I had to re-set readiness. I tried setting readiness many ways. Ultimately, what I had to do was head back to my local APR dealer, get a new flash. Why? The flash I had been running with was Stage 1+ with no map that truely took me back to stock. This whole time, after I installed a DP and etc, I never got to full stage 2 power until April of 2017.
When I got to the APR dealer, I learned that the maps I had pre-dated some newer maps which APR developed for folks in NYS to be able to set readiness and pass inspection.
SO, new flash gives me full Stage 2 power and a map that is full OEM stock. With this full stock map loaded, I can run VCDS to set readiness. It takes ~20 mins or so and all you do is hold your foot to the floor and the software drives the engine over various rev profiles. Yes, the leg got a bit tired doing so. But, pass inspection, then once I got back in the car tossed the stage 2 map on.
With Stage 2 loaded, my 1/8 mile times at likely one of the countries worst 1/8 mi tracks, in Lancaster NY, I was running 8.41s with stock DSG map (I have not messed with the trans at all) and PSS tires and OEM cast wheels.
Since at a nice 1/4 track my Stage 1+ tune got me down the track in 8.317 seconds for the 1/8 mile and best 1/4 mile time was 12.97 @ ~105mph. So, with stage 2 on the 1/4 mile I expect the ability to drop a couple more tenths off the time. Unfortunately, have not had time to get to 1.4 mi track this year.
It has been a while since I posted an update here... so here it is:
For over a year, because I was lazy, I drove around with a dead post cat O2 sensor. When I finally got around to tossing a new one in there, about a week later it died. Wtf I said. So I bought another, and tossed it in. Week or so later, dead again.
My car may have been munching O2 sensors because of its position and being positioned such that condensation would stay stagnant around the sensor, thus shorting it out.
Being in NYS, I have to pass inspection every year or risk a nice ticket and a fine. With the O2 sensor issues, I had to re-set readiness. I tried setting readiness many ways. Ultimately, what I had to do was head back to my local APR dealer, get a new flash. Why? The flash I had been running with was Stage 1+ with no map that truely took me back to stock. This whole time, after I installed a DP and etc, I never got to full stage 2 power until April of 2017.
When I got to the APR dealer, I learned that the maps I had pre-dated some newer maps which APR developed for folks in NYS to be able to set readiness and pass inspection.
SO, new flash gives me full Stage 2 power and a map that is full OEM stock. With this full stock map loaded, I can run VCDS to set readiness. It takes ~20 mins or so and all you do is hold your foot to the floor and the software drives the engine over various rev profiles. Yes, the leg got a bit tired doing so. But, pass inspection, then once I got back in the car tossed the stage 2 map on.
With Stage 2 loaded, my 1/8 mile times at likely one of the countries worst 1/8 mi tracks, in Lancaster NY, I was running 8.41s with stock DSG map (I have not messed with the trans at all) and PSS tires and OEM cast wheels.
Since at a nice 1/4 track my Stage 1+ tune got me down the track in 8.317 seconds for the 1/8 mile and best 1/4 mile time was 12.97 @ ~105mph. So, with stage 2 on the 1/4 mile I expect the ability to drop a couple more tenths off the time. Unfortunately, have not had time to get to 1.4 mi track this year.
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226 Posts
ISC suspension
I will post up more on this when I remove my ISC suspension, but ISC suspension is not suitable for daily driving in the north east. After 2 years, the hardware looks awful. The mechanics seem to work fine. But the springs are rusty, almost all the paint is missing. And where the sway bar link attach to the strut, the holes have oversized due to rustand the link now has play in that hole and makes an annoying click noise.
... Winter plan is to toss stock suspension back on, mid spring go KW V3.
I will post up more on this when I remove my ISC suspension, but ISC suspension is not suitable for daily driving in the north east. After 2 years, the hardware looks awful. The mechanics seem to work fine. But the springs are rusty, almost all the paint is missing. And where the sway bar link attach to the strut, the holes have oversized due to rustand the link now has play in that hole and makes an annoying click noise.
... Winter plan is to toss stock suspension back on, mid spring go KW V3.
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226 Posts
So, the other day, went out to the store, was hearing a weird noise when revs got over ~4k.
Went away during the last few mins of driving back home.
Drove to work the next day.
On the drive home, weird noise was back and worse. Was hearing the turbo loud and clear, in a bad way.
Lifted the car and took a peak... the v band clamp (or whatever VW/Audi call this thing) had failed.
My turbo is now partially separated from the exhaust manifold.
Click the link to see a pic:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1qF-JCtlJiMd2VkMGxfWkxQVmM/view?usp=sharing
My hunch as to why this bracket fail is due to the lack of flex in the flex section of my Billy Boat downpipe. It does flex, but nothing like the OEM flex section. I have read/heard the newer APR cast downpipes have an OEM spec flex section. The more flex, the less stress on the turbo assembly. That, is a given. A secondary factor for the bracket failure might be my obnoxiously stiff suspension which I have now daily driven on for ehh 50k miles.
Repair/Replace time:
So, turns out VW/Audi will not sell you just the clamp. Which I believe is for liability reasons. Now that there is an opening directly exposing the turbine wheel/impeller to debris, it could be damaged. I will need to determine this out soon of course.
My preference, is to just repair the failed clamp (replace it with something) and re apply any gasket/sealant between the turbo housing and the exhaust manifold. This is looking tricky to do as no aftermarket clamps seem to fit the k03 turbo.
If the turbo is damaged, it of course needs to be replaced. Installing a fresh k03 seems so lame when APR has a nice K04 kit and would make the car be over 300 whp & 300 wtq. However, I am reading some not so encouraging threads about k04s...
My 2011 Audi tt currently has 81,xxx miles on it...
So, if anyone has some suggestions on what to do, certainly interested. Oh and car is paid off... and as much as I would love another car, not interested in any car payments for a while.
Went away during the last few mins of driving back home.
Drove to work the next day.
On the drive home, weird noise was back and worse. Was hearing the turbo loud and clear, in a bad way.
Lifted the car and took a peak... the v band clamp (or whatever VW/Audi call this thing) had failed.
My turbo is now partially separated from the exhaust manifold.
Click the link to see a pic:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1qF-JCtlJiMd2VkMGxfWkxQVmM/view?usp=sharing
My hunch as to why this bracket fail is due to the lack of flex in the flex section of my Billy Boat downpipe. It does flex, but nothing like the OEM flex section. I have read/heard the newer APR cast downpipes have an OEM spec flex section. The more flex, the less stress on the turbo assembly. That, is a given. A secondary factor for the bracket failure might be my obnoxiously stiff suspension which I have now daily driven on for ehh 50k miles.
Repair/Replace time:
So, turns out VW/Audi will not sell you just the clamp. Which I believe is for liability reasons. Now that there is an opening directly exposing the turbine wheel/impeller to debris, it could be damaged. I will need to determine this out soon of course.
My preference, is to just repair the failed clamp (replace it with something) and re apply any gasket/sealant between the turbo housing and the exhaust manifold. This is looking tricky to do as no aftermarket clamps seem to fit the k03 turbo.
If the turbo is damaged, it of course needs to be replaced. Installing a fresh k03 seems so lame when APR has a nice K04 kit and would make the car be over 300 whp & 300 wtq. However, I am reading some not so encouraging threads about k04s...
My 2011 Audi tt currently has 81,xxx miles on it...
So, if anyone has some suggestions on what to do, certainly interested. Oh and car is paid off... and as much as I would love another car, not interested in any car payments for a while.
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73 Posts
Curious where you landed on this....did you repair or decide to go K04?
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226 Posts
Repaired with K04 from APR. Kit install was a giant B****. Shop that did the work was also a giant PITA, slow, poor attention to detail... ended up spending countless hours going back through it and fixing up areas they botched... Engine bay was also heavily corroded from North East environment... not ideal.
After I got my car back, months after it was originally dropped off & misdiagnosed, etc... with the fresh hardware in place within a short period of time it was back at the shop because the mid pipe slipped off the downpipe (due to lazy careless install). This was mid winter with seriously cold temps so - could have fixed myself but not in my garage at those temps. Then shortly later on in the month, I took the car back again because the turbo was pissing coolant out the banjo bolt that wasnt fully seated. That too was remedied after the shop gave me much grief about how difficult the job was.
But been riding on upgraded K04 for about a year now. No major issues. Some wonky throttle response here and there...not sure why...
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226 Posts
Funky throttle response: realized eventually that one of the cables that should be plugged in right of the intake manifold - it was unplugged! Plugging this back in definitely fixed the throttle behavior but not fully!
Late in 2018, I had my intake valves cleaned by a local dealer. With almost 90k miles, it seemed like a reasonable thing to do. The shop of course said, hmm didnt look too bad in there. And charged me for the work anyways. ...point being, not sure if the dealer who did the valve cleaning didnt plug in the cable or if the cable was left unplugged from the shop that did the turbo install... either way, the weird throttle had been happening ever since the install. So, I am inclined to believe, both shops didnt plug the cable back in!
sooo... Make sure this cable is plugged in. You should see a CEL if its not in...
IMG_20181207_145136 by boarderjcj, on Flickr
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226 Posts
I installed NEUSPEED p/n 48.02.96 with the K04 kit along with the ARP intercooler. The shop which did the K04 install of course said the pipe didnt fit right, and left it in hanging only by its silicone connectors (idiots). I refitted it properly in about 30 mins.
The silicon pipe work to the intercooler does make this pipe fit tight... it feels very forced into place. But, the mounting holes for the bolts mated up just fine and tightened up no issue. So, it is securely in place. Silicone pipe to intercooler probably should be trimmed to make it more forgiving to install.
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448 Posts
Go figure VL engines having issues with K04s. Blew my motor and since moved on. The k04 has way too much backpressure on the exhaust side to run 23psi on the valve lift engine. It misses and cuts throttle regularly and also has terrible boost surge at low rpm where it feels as if the car is letting on and off the throttle.
Stage 2 or custom map TTE420-480 turbo is the only way to go for our cars.
Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
Stage 2 or custom map TTE420-480 turbo is the only way to go for our cars.
Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
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