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2012 VW Golf R - IE450T
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had my '12 Golf R for a few years, but never got around to posting a build thread, so here goes.

Tire Wheel Automotive design Blue Automotive tire


Background
Back in 2017, I still had my MKIV R32 which had been converted to a 4motion big turbo PD TDI. Car had been amazing. I had daily'ed it for 5 years and had been relatively reliable overall during that time. The car was starting to show its age, and just continued to become less reliable, and as most motor swaps are, a relatively painful daily to own.

I wanted to get a new daily that was:
  • 6 speed manual
  • AWD
  • Hatch or wagon
  • 4/5 doors
  • Made reasonable power
  • Some modern tech/creature comforts
  • Good aftermarket
  • Reasonably reliable
  • Reasonably efficient
With this list, my options were pretty limited. One major aim was to buy a car that was tastefully modified to a point that I would not be pulling the motor, eyeing turbo kits, etc. The hope was to just buy something, drive, and maintain it. My final contenders were:
  • 2014 Subaru WRX STi hatch
  • 2012 VW Golf R
  • B7 Audi A4 Avant
  • BMW E91 328xi Touring
As you can see, despite some more reasonable options, I ended up aiming at a MKVI Golf R. I had been hunting for the right stage 3 MKVI Golf R for some time and I had been debating between a few different cars. Like many, I really liked the idea of the BorgWarner EFR 6758 twin scroll turbo, but IE was new to tuning and this kit had bee riddled with bad feedback. The APR kit looked pretty good, but I was honestly more excited about the BW EFR turbo.

Ideally, I was looking for a car with rods, a balance shaft delete, and stiffer valve springs to hopefully prevent the EA113 from eating itself, but nothing perfect came along when I was in the market. When I saw Dan Shook's car come up (61k mile IE450T MKVI Golf R), I read through his build thread and saw all the work he put into the car. After reading though it and speaking with him, it seemed that he had worked through all the bugs of the IE kit/tuning.

So, with some caution and lots of excitement, I bought it in April of 2017 from Dan and ventured from Chicago to Battle Creek, MI to pick it up.

Automotive tail & brake light Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle Automotive lighting


Modifications After Taking Ownership
Here are all the current modifications to date with notes when the particular mod was done. I have bolded all mods performed after taking ownership. The hyperlinks are mostly for reference if needed. Original specs can be found in the original sale post.

60676

January 2020 engine bay glamor shot

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern

September dyno (Mustang) with United Motorsport 92 octane tune

Engine

Exhaust

Trans/Driveline

Wheels/Tires
Summer
  • 18x8 OZ Superturismo LM MGS
    • Diameter: 18 inches
    • Width: 8 inches
      • Stock is 7.5Jx18
    • Colour: Gunmetal
    • PCD: 5x120
    • Offset (ET): 40
      • Stock is ET 51 (other places have said 45)
    • Max load: 705 kg
    • Weight: 10.27 kg
  • 235 x 40 x 18 Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4(added 92,200 miles)
    • Replaced 255/40ZR-18 SUMITOMO HTR Z III XL tires (added 65,000 miles)
      • Almost completely eliminated rubbing
    • Opted for these over PS4S because of Washington climate
Snow
  • Michelin x-ice xi3
  • Stock Powdercoated Wheels
    • (factory total offset 57.1)
    • Stock tire: 225/40ZR18 92Y
    • Diameter: 18”
    • Width: 7.5”
    • Positive offset of 51mm


Chassis & Suspension
  • H&R Sway Bars
  • Tyrolsport front and rear deadset subframe kits (added 84,500 miles)
  • Whiteline front and rear sway bar end links (added 84,500 miles)
  • Whiteline poly trailing arm bushings (added 84,500 miles)
  • Whiteline ball joints (bump steer/roll center correction) (added 84,500 miles)
  • Whiteline poly rear lower control arm bushings (added 84,500 miles)
  • KW V3 coilovers (added 84,500 miles)
  • ECS heavy duty strut mounts & bearings (added 84,500 miles)
  • Supaloy front lower control arms and poly bushings (added 84,500 miles)
  • KW 30MM Spring Spacers (rear) (added 87,500 miles)
    • The tire width has necessitated spacers to minimize rubbing on the inner fender liner (the KW V3s will not go high enough to accommodate)
    • Will be switching to 235s in the future
Brakes
  • OE front rotors (added 86,900 miles)
    • Stoptech slotted rotors were out of stock everywhere when I realized rotors needed replacement
  • Stoptech slotted rear rotors (added 65,000 miles)
  • Stoptech Stainless Lines
  • ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid
  • Hawk HPS rear brake pads (added 65,000 miles)
  • Hawk HPS front brake pads (added 86,900 miles)
  • Tyrolsport front brake caliper stiffeners (added 86,900 miles)
  • Tyrolsport Master Cylinder Bracket (added 94,600 miles)

Interior
  • BFI Heavy Weight Shift Knob SCHWARZ - Black Alcantara
  • Interior LED’s
  • Bold Sport stainless R seat inserts
  • OEM VW RCD330 Plus CarPlay/Android Auto (Noname Linux OS version) 187B Stereo 6RD 035 187 B (added 80,000 miles)
  • Rennline PM0110 magnetic phone mount for MKVI (added at 80,000 miles)
  • BFI blue stitching leather shift boot (added at 88,900 miles)
  • Genuine VW European light switch with automatic function (added at 89,450 miles)
  • P3 v2 Blue/White digital gauge with track pack (added at 90,700 miles)

Cosmetic & Exterior

Modifications/Maintenance

Here is the basic modifications and maintence up to the present. Will be documenting any meaningful work done in this thread after this point.

As you will see, somehow my thought of "buying a modified car and just driving it" went out the window. I've done a fair amount of work since taking ownership – some of it regular maintenance, some upgrades, and some, unfortunately, unscheduled maintenance.

@65,000 miles

@75,000 miles
  • OEM R8 coil packs
  • NGK iridium spark plugs
  • Fuel pump cam follower change
  • Oil change
@84,400 miles
  • Tyrolsport front and rear deadset subframe kits
  • Whiteline front and rear sway bar end links
  • Whiteline poly trailing arm bushings
  • Whiteline ball joints (bump steer/roll center correction)
  • Whiteline steering rack bushing - could not install
  • Whiteline poly rear lower control arm bushing
  • KW V3 coilovers
  • ECS heavy coilover install kit
  • ECS Tie rod service kit
  • Supaloy front lower control arms and poly bushings
  • 034 Motorsports Catch Can and continuous drain line
  • Clean intake valves with CDC GDI IVD Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner (did not seem to do much)
  • Alignment x1
  • Oil change
  • Fuel pump cam follower change
  • Rolled front fenders
@86,900 miles
  • Optima Yellowtop H6 battery
  • Timing belt, tensioner, rollers, water pump, serpentine belt, coolant service
  • Head and intake cleaning (walnut blast)
  • Drain intercooler of oil
  • Modify charge pipe adjacent to throttle body and fix boost leak
  • Front brakes
    • OE rotors (Stoptech drilled/slotted out of stock at all vendors at this time)
    • Brake flush
    • Hawk HPS pads
  • Walnut blast intake/head to remove carbon buildup
  • Cleaned engine bay
  • Tyrolsport front brake caliper stiffeners
  • Haldex fluid and filter service
@87,500 miles
@88,900 miles
  • BFI blue stitching leather shift boot
  • Replacement inner shifter trim ring (wish someone made a billet Al one)
  • Replacement outer (aluminum look GTI) shifter trim ring (wish someone made a billet Al one)
  • Purchase IE Power Link v4 (original clear one is not supported anymore)
  • Replacement rear wiper (Bosch)
  • Dynamic Trajectory Rear View Backup Camera RVC For VW Golf 6/POLO AT For RCD330 (added at 88,900 miles)
@89,154 miles
During installation of intake manifold and billet valve cover, major abrasion and missing material was discovered with both cams (mostly on intake) and the roller rocker assemblies. There was significant missing material from the cam journals in the head, and the sealant was the wrong color (non-OEM). This head had been tampered with by a prior owner.

Head is being replaced with a built head (was available on VWvortex - did not purchase with cams since they would require custom pistons with deeper reliefs and a different custom tune) since the MKVI Golf R (CRZA engine code) has stiffer springs, and a different cam profile.

  • CNC ported and polished
  • Intake runner flap notches filled
  • CNC machined for the bigger springs to fit
  • Combustion chamber was polished/ smoothed out
  • Resurfaced
  • Parts installed in custom head:
    • Cat cams 762006 cams (biggest cam available in the market for the FSI )
      • Genuine VW Golf R cams (CZRA head has stiffer valve springs & aggressive cames over MKV BPY) 06F109101K and 06F109102F
    • 16x Cat cams upper retainer 99545/s
    • 16x Cat cams lower retainer 99546/O
    • 16x Cat cams outer valve spring PAC-E99865 (enlarged seats, oversized springs)
    • 16x Cat cams inner valve spring PAC-I99865 (enlarged seats, oversized springs)
    • 8x Supertech inconel +1mm exhaust valves
    • 8x Supertech +1 intake valves
    • 16x IE valve guides
    • 16x VW OEM valve seals
    • ARP cam cradle bolts - p/n 04-1001

Repairs (VW genuine parts unless noted):
  • Genuine VW Intake camshaft
  • Genuine VW Exhaust camshaft
  • Genuine VW Roller rocker arms
  • Genuine VW Hydraulic lifters
  • OES Timing chain
  • OES Timing chain tensioner
  • Associated fasteners, seals, etc.
  • Replaced Turbosmart TS-0205-3111 Blow Off Valve -3AN Banjo Nipple Replacement
  • Welded 3” section in downpipe-exhaust to remove restriction
  • Replaced 2.5” exhaust slip-clamp and replaced with proper 3” APR slip-clamp
  • Modified throttle body inlet piping (welded extension)
Upgrades:
@89,450 miles

@90,100 miles
  • Replaced G247 sensor with Bosch (Genuine VW is supplied by Bosch 0261545050) - hoping to resolve the issues below:
    • Was getting 004506 - Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247) P119A - 001 - Malfunction - MIL ON error between 20 and 175 miles
    • Got 000369 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 P0171 - 001 - System Too Lean - MIL ON ONCE
    • Got 000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
    • P0088 - 001 - Too High - Intermittent
    • Freeze Frame:
    • Fault Status: 00100001
    • Fault Priority: 2
    • Fault Frequency: 3
  • The car seemed to drive normally, so I am hoping that the new sensor resolves the issue
    • I have driven the car over 500 miles since w/o a CEL
  • Updated IE450T + manifold tune - addresses CEL for missing intake runner flap motor
    • Confirmed working
@90,700 miles
  • Replaced set screw style BFI shifter knob adapter with updated version
  • P3 v2 Blue/White digital gauge with track pack
@92,000 miles

@94,200 miles
@94,300 miles
@94,600 miles
@97,500 miles
 

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Man, that's a long way from buying something to just drive and maintain. lol Damn this curse we have to mod.

I am interested in the modification you did to the TB pipe? I have a sudden boost issue that I am tracking down and thinking it may be an issue with that pipe and/or hoses (the OEM one is still on the car, looking at the BSH upgrade one) so interested in what you found and did. It says welded an extension on?
 
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2012 VW Golf R - IE450T
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Man, that's a long way from buying something to just drive and maintain. lol Damn this curse we have to mod.

I am interested in the modification you did to the TB pipe? I have a sudden boost issue that I am tracking down and thinking it may be an issue with that pipe and/or hoses (the OEM one is still on the car, looking at the BSH upgrade one) so interested in what you found and did. It says welded an extension on?
Yeah, it really is a curse 😭 Hoping I can just drive it for a while now 😂

I can't take any credit for this - my mechanic is incredible. The CTS Turbo Throttle Pipe was popping off under boost no matter how tight the clamps were (and I had put t-bolt clamps on in an attempt to fix).

Anyways, he added a bracket (like OEM) to restrict movement, and this resolved the issue.

60475


That said, after installing the IE intake manifold, the pipe did not line up well anymore with the TB, so...

60481


Seems to hold about 30 PSI so no complaints.
 

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Ah, good to know, thinking about the IE intake as well sometime this year.
 

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Have you done any dyno runs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah, good to know, thinking about the IE intake as well sometime this year.
👍 the build quality is fantastic - you're going to love it. Definitely makes me feel better about running 30 psi of boost (and seems to give a bit more top-end power).

Have you done any dyno runs?
I have not. I am planning to run it for a while longer as is to confirm that there are no fueling issues related to the G247 codes and want to get a dyno run in sometime soon. Not sure what it will make, but would be nice to see 450+ AWHP on a Mustang dyno. This might be unreasonable.

Also added a current engine bay shot to the first post :D
 

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Im jealous of the 255 tires. Ive been wanting to go wider than my current 235, but on ET45 wheels and ~2.5degrees camber the inside right rear already rubs a bit. Is that the same place you are rubbing--on the filler tube?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im jealous of the 255 tires. Ive been wanting to go wider than my current 235, but on ET45 wheels and ~2.5degrees camber the inside right rear already rubs a bit. Is that the same place you are rubbing--on the filler tube?
That is exactly it @Imua . The rubbing is obnoxious. It also rubs a bit on the front passenger side as well with a passenger in the car, hard cornering, and minor bumps in the road. Sadly think I am going to go with 235s as well 😭
 

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Stock intake manifold handled ~44PSI just fine.... I could've eased your mind for cheaper. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Stock intake manifold handled ~44PSI just fine.... I could've eased your mind for cheaper. LOL
Mostly hoping for the power increase, but have had my doubts with the stock intake ;)

Sheesh, 44PSI on the stock intake... 🤯
 

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Yeah with TTE480.

(It spools hella quick)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Small update. I currently have a BFI shifter knob from the previous owner (black anodized with Alcantara):
61801


The shift knob adapter set screws loosened up a few times, so I used some red LockTite recently. I must have missed one screw, because one screw loosened up again and fell into a hole in the foam and is now gone forever. For $4 I could have just gotten a new set of screws, but figured I might as well pick this up as it is way less annoying to deal with if I ever have to in the future.

Product Technology Household hardware Silver Steel


Probably not worth $25, but was satisfying 😆 I'm not really a huge fan of the Alcantara since it gets dirty pretty easily, but feels a lot nicer than a hot or cold metal shifter. Who knows, maybe I'll replace it one day.

On an unrelated note, I also have the 034 catch can set up with a continuous drain line back into the pan via a banjo bolt on the drain plug. I wanted to install a Fumoto drain valve and realized I'd have to address the constant drain.

I can either remove it entirely and just drain the can manually, or figure out a better solution to keep both. One option is dropping the oil pan and tapping for a barb fitting for the drain. I didn't really want to do this and have to reseal the pan, so I looked for a better option and think I found one.

My car currently has an IE AN-10 male fitting on the turbo drain return, so I saw this and realized that I can easily make something work:
61802

I had some spare AN -6 line and various ends hanging around, so I put together something that is clearly overkill but will make for a clean setup where I don't have to drill any holes in the oil pan:

61803


Basically just the AN-10 tee, with 2 male and one female. The female will connect to the block turbo oil drain, the back male connection to the current turbo drain line. Then I have a female AN-10 to male AN-6 adapter on the middle connection of the tee. Connected to that a 3.5’ AN-6 to AN-6 line. On the end of that I have a 90º 1/8” NPT (the size of my catch can drain hole) to AN-6 port connector.

Planning to throw this on at the next oil change along with a Fumoto valve.
 

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On an unrelated note, I also have the 034 catch can set up with a continuous drain line back into the pan via a banjo bolt on the drain plug. I wanted to install a Fumoto drain valve and realized I'd have to address the constant drain.

Wait? You drain the catchcan back into your oil pan? Have you ever seen the garbage that comes out of the catchcan? I wouldn't want that stuff dumped into my pan.
 
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Wait? You drain the catchcan back into your oil pan? Have you ever seen the garbage that comes out of the catchcan? I wouldn't want that stuff dumped into my pan.
I was trying to find pictures from what I’ve gotten out of my older vehicles. It looked like chocolate milk being taken from the catch can. ****s gross, I’d never let it recirculate back into my oil pan.
 
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