Well, I got down and really took a good look at my rack. Doesn't look to be in good shape. It needs bushings right now so it might as well get swapped out. The car wanders real bad and other things associated to this. I know I need the little bearing that goes on the column too. My question is, should I just get the factory replacement or is there something better that will be a direct fit. Thanks a bunch guys.
hey HyKlas, when you drive does the car go all over the place over bumps or uneven surfaces?.......
i looked at my rack and it moved a tad........i asked the mech and he said a tad is pretty normal...........he said its possibly my tie-rods..........
sorry i cant answer your question though.
Well i have the same problem of the steering twitiching around on rutted or broken pavement. I think my tie rods are OK (so says the shop) but i should check them again personally. Nevertheless, I thought i might as well replace the steering rack bushes in any case. My question: Is replacing these bushes difficult with the enigne and tranmission in place? Enough room to work in there?
I just ordered my bushings today. The rack is leaking fluid so at least a rebuild is in the works. I don't want to spend $300 on that Quaife unit though. Looking to get a tighter rack that will fit without too much problem. Any ideas or am I stuck with the standard rack?
Matt - I hear it's a pretty tight squeeze but definately not impossible.
I went w/ the urethane rack bushings for the race car. I put them in while I had the tranny out (before I swapped in the fresh one w/ the 4.25 R&P and the Quaife http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ). From what I remember, it is a major PITA to get to the rack w/ the tranny in place, which is why I never installed the bushings (sat in the tool box for ~10 years!
Guess I can pull the motor/tranny while I'm doing motor mounts. Looks to be a pretty simple system to hook back up. I can do Honda and Chevy swaps in a day so this shouldn't be too hard. Should have my FF and 2L 16v next week too. Major mods going in to the 2L but I could change in the FF since I hate this 4K so much. Needs synchro rings and I'm not going to get in to that just yet.
Any ideas on a tighter rack (other than Quaife unit)?
It's not to bad to do the bushings with the tranny in. just jack up the whole front end as far as possible, crawl under with a 13 open end wrench and socket and the bushings. It shouldn't take more than a half hour, thats all it took me a year ago when I didi mine. then have a
Anyone got another idea? I need the rack ASAP. Should I just get this JC Whitney thing or would there be a better choice? JC Whitney couldn't seem to tell me if it's a OEM VW unit or a rebuilt one. I'm never really sure about the quality of anything from JC Whitney. Someone here must have done rack work... What did you do?
JC Whitney is definitely NOT OEM. I wouldn't put a JC Whitney reflector on my bike. Anyway...
My steering was wandering horribly until I checked my ball joints. Now it's good as new.
my bushings were junk. Just by replacing them made a huge difference. The bushing job is PITA even with the car up on a lift. An entire rack may be extreme. I've seen racks in street rabbits turned race cars as late as last season.
I have poly bushings already. We've checked everything and it's definately the rack. It's leaking fluid all over the place... Anyone have an idea? I'd like to get a new or professionally rebuilt OEM rack instead of some used one that "works". Thanks for the suggestions though guys.
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I replaced the rack in my car. the newer rack, Trw I belive has a quicker ratio than the factory unit. On the inside of the steering wheel it says you should be able to turn the wheel 6? full turns from left to right. The new rack requires only 4 or 5.
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