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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, after reading about the Mini Cooper valve for the rear window washer nozzle here, I decided to get one and install it. This install was done on a car that had NOT had the TSB done from VW, if your car already has had the mod done, it will be easier to do.

Here are some of the tools and parts you will need (not all of them are pictured):
* Torx 20 driver
* 1/2" - 12mm shrink wrap tubing (6" long if possible or two 4") (Got it from Home Depot, from VW dealer you would get one 000979992A)
* Heat source for shrink wrap tubing (I used a lighter)
* Good quality electrical tape (recommended)
* Scissors
* Razor blade (new preferably)
* Mini Cooper Valve (BMW part number 61-68-8-229-249)
* Two VW hose adapters (1J0955875R)
* 3/16" ID hose (bought from ACE hardware but VW sells them with a large mark up on the price, from the VW dealer get two of 443955665)



First, open your trunk and remove the two T20 Torx screws:





Remove the two tail light bulb covers:



Then pull down the trim carefully, it will take some force though:



Lower trim removed:



The disconnect the parcel tray cable/attachment from the upper trim:



And remove the upper trim by pulling all around. It's tight, like the lower trim. Here it is with both trim pieces removed:



Here is the hose we are working with, the black corrugated one. Try working so that your valve will end up right in between the two clips. I didn't and I wish I did :banghead:





I had some slack on the hose, a lot more than shown in this picture, which helped with the install. On the other side though, not much slack and there is also the wire for the rear window defroster, be careful with that !



Take the scissors and cut the hose where you need:



You can also cut a piece of the hose out if you want, if not, you will just lengthen the hose (which is what I did, more slack now too). Now put in the two hose adapters from VW:



Cut two pieces of the 3/16" ID hose you bought, I made them just a tad bit longer than the valve itself:



Install the hose pieces and the valve, make sure the Mini Cooper valve has the arrow pointing towards the nozzle (don't ask !). Also make sure to slide on your shrink wrap tubing before attaching the valve.





Since I could only find 4" long shrink wrap tubing, I used two of them, the first one from just past one hose adapter to over the valve and almost to the other hose adapter:



Heat it up so it shrinks, be careful not to burn anything !!!



Then I put the other side of the shrink wrap tubing, on the other hose adapter and over the valve. When all that was done and cooled down I used some good quality electrical tape (Scotch) and wrapped the whole thing a few times, you can never be too careful:



Now close the hatch and test the rear window washer (won't work if the hatch is open). Make sure you have no leaks, maybe take a test drive. Mine leaked a little so I made sure everything was tight and I wrap it with electrical tape real good, looks like no more leaks now :)

When all is good and done, re-install the upper trim, then the lower trim, and the two Torx 20 screws and re-attach the cables to your parcel tray cover piece ..... and enjoy, no more leaks !!!
 

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Nice DIY.

I had the TSB done last weekend, and it hasn't leaked yet. But I will keep this bookmarked for if/when it lets go eventually.

In another thread, you mentioned that the TSB is to install a 1 psi check valve, whereas the mini part is a 3psi check valve. Either valve is OK if it's working properly, but as the valves age, the 1 psi valve may start to dribble whereas I would expect the 3 psi valve to be more robust. But on the other hand you're asking the washer pump to do more work to push fluid through the 3 psi valve. Do you happen to know the discharge pressure of the windshield washer pump? If you put too much stress on it, it could fail early -- I would think 3 psi isn't asking too much, but what do I know? :)
 

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Sweet!! Thanks for posting this DIY!!

This kills 2 birds for me - the drip, AND a rattle inside the hatch that is driving me nuts!! Wasnt sure how to pull apart hatch trim. Now I can! :D:thumbup::p

I assume there's not much chance of breaking anything when pulling down on the lower hatch trim? You say it takes some force... Perhaps there's a technique to pulling it...

Also, any info on how this valve works, and or why it is different or better than the VW TSB solution?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I actually cracked the upper one right in the middle just as I had done on my Passat Wagon :banghead: lol also there is an attachment point between the lower and upper trims. Basically you have to pull hard to get the clips off, and when you put back on, keep them aligned in the holes before you clip them back on.

The VW valve cracks open at 1psi which apparently is not enough to hold pressure on hot days, the BMW/Mini valve cracks open at 3psi. Before the mod, if I used the rear washer, then I opened and closed the hatch it would leak down. Not with this mod, I drove it around town and still no leak :knock on wood: :)
 

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Another solution is to install a second 1 psi VW check valves inline with the first one. Both methods install essentially the same way, but with adding a second VW check valve, the hose adapters are not needed.

I went with the second VW valve inline with the first one. The R&R of the trim is identical, or you can remove the side trim in the rear of the car to get at the hose there.

If your car is still under warranty, your dealer will install the second one for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Another solution is to install a second 1 psi VW check valves inline with each other. Both methods install essentially the same way, but with adding a second VW check valve, the hose adapters are not needed.

I went with the second VW valve inline with the first one. The R&R of the trim is identical, or you can remove the side trim in the rear of the car to get at the hose there.
Well, you still need the hose adapter because that is what will let you install the valve (either VW or Mini) onto the "corrugated" hose. The valve part number was taken directly from VW's TSB. As for the 2 check valves yes apparently that's what VW is doing now, putting two valves in line. Some people say it works, some say it doesn't.
As for adding them behind the side trim in hatch area that's nice too but I wonder about the water between the valve(s) and the nozzle.
Still makes me laugh to think those VW valves were original equipment on a 74 Scirocco :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If your car is still under warranty, your dealer will install the second one for you.
There is NO valve from the factory, you know that right ? The TSB called for adding one valve. When that didn't fix it, VW said install two valves lol. Maybe they can just put 33 valves in a row and that will fix it ? :p
 

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Think what he means that if one doesn't work, there's no reason why two in a row would. Unless the original valve was broken lol
what i am saying is that after the TSB to install one check valve, the leaking continues, have your dealer service install a second check valve in-line with the first. That will absolutely cure the heat related dribbling.
 

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what i am saying is that after the TSB to install one check valve, the leaking continues, have your dealer service install a second check valve in-line with the first. That will absolutely cure the heat related dribbling.
Check valves don't add like that

If valve 2 stops the leak then valve 2 would have stopped it by itself
 
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