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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The current DIY is lacking photos, here's a "mirror" using my own photos.
Tools:

*Jack
*Jack Stand
*Torque Wrench
*Wheel lock key
*17mm socket (for wheel lugs)
*15mm wrench (open ended)
*13mm socket
*30mm triple square (12 point) socket
*Flat head screwdriver (small)
*Philips head screwdriver
*2 or 3 arm Gear Puller (I got mine from advanced auto, they had a 2/3 arm puller with 2 different sized sets of reversible arms)
*Rubber Mallet
*Hammer
*chisel
Parts:
2 x Rear Wheel Bearings and Hubs (It's smartest to do both sides at once)
2 x Rear Axle Nuts
Some Anti-seize
Find a nice place to work on level hard ground.
Put the car in gear but don't engage the parking brake.
Chock the front wheels.
Loosen the wheel bolts now while the tires are on the ground.
Jack up the rear end of the car, both sides.
Remove the wheel (and any spacers/adapter you might have)
Now you've got the car in the air and the tires off.
Next thing to do is remove the small Phillips head screw from the brake rotor.
Then remove the caliper bolts, for these use a 15mm open ended wrench and a 13mm socket.

Remove the brake pads and the rotor.
Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the dust cap in the center of the hub.
Use your 30mm axle nut socket and a breaker bar to remove the axle nut


Now you use the puller.
Assemble the puller with the arms that fit best, in my case, the smallest arms.
Use a locking wrench to turn the center bolt of the puller to pull the hub off the stub axle

This will 99.9% leave the inner race and inner seal on the stub axle

When the bearing comes loose, it will surprise you and fall out of the puller, this is what it will look like:


Now it's time to get that inner race off.
First, lets get some access to it. We will do this by removing the 4 bolts that hold the dust shield and stub axle on the swing arm.
Remove the 4 bolts, pull off the dust shield then use a few bolts to re-secure the stub axle to the swing arm.

You should be able to simply pull the old inner seal off by hand.
Use a chisel and begin chiseling the inner race off the stub axle

once you get it a bit off, then you can use the puller to get it the rest of the way off


It WILL eventually come off, but using a torch on it is always an option.

here we have the old hub/bearing vs. the new:

now clean off the stub axle and put some nice anti seize on it

Next, press on the hub, mine went on by a firm hand pressure but you can use a 2x4 and a rubber mallet to knock it on

push the bearing on enough that you can thread the old axle nut on

tighten the axle nut down to set the new bearing and hub into place

then un-thread that axle nut and put on the new one.
Then just reassemble the brake system

put the dust cap back on
put your wheels/spacers back on.
Rinse, Repeat, for the other side then lower the car and take it for a test drive!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Supplemental info for Rear Bearing replacement - such as PHOTOS (87vr6)

Quote, originally posted by 87vr6 »
We're not bringing up the nuts again, are we??

great pictures though! I probably should have taken more of me doing my fronts this past weekend.

turns out none of those nuts were any good, the rears ARE specific, to the rear!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Supplemental info for Rear Bearing replacement - such as PHOTOS (87vr6)

Quote, originally posted by 87vr6 »

Wow, good info to know then!

they do thread on, but they lack the super big flange
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
end of work bump
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (rs4-380)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Supplemental info for Rear Bearing replacement - such as PHOTOS (timwoolsey)

Quote, originally posted by timwoolsey »
Could someone explain to me why it is smartest to do both sides at once? Do I also need to do the front ones?

It's best to do both at once because the tools required are specialized, you'll probably be borrowing them, so might as well do both.
Oh, and you can sometimes find a deal on Hubs & bearings for both sides. And you save on shipping.
AND if one side is going out, the other side will soon follow most likely.

LOL, more reasons than I thought when I started typing this reply.
 

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Re: Supplemental info for Rear Bearing replacement - such as PHOTOS (dremhmrk2)

cool, thanks man. so there's no balance issues to worry about if you only do one side? i'm thinking of having a mechanic do it and don't particularly want to pay for both wheels...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FV-QR

no real issue with just doing one side, just know you'll need to do it again at some point for the other side.
 

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Re: Supplemental info for Rear Bearing replacement - such as PHOTOS (dremhmrk2)

Quick question: why use a gear puller? Do I need to get-one/borrow-one in order to replace my hub assemblies?


Modified by Samarahuel at 12:02 PM 5-8-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: Supplemental info for Rear Bearing replacement - such as PHOTOS (Samarahuel)

Quote, originally posted by Samarahuel »
Quick question: why use a gear puller? Do I need to get-one/borrow-one in order to replace my hub assemblies?

Modified by Samarahuel at 12:02 PM 5-8-2009

You gotta pull that bearing off somehow...
 
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