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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Suspension DIY'ers - Tools and Complete Write Up

This installation was done on a 2006 Jetta GLI 2.0T FSI car with 1600 miles on the clock. If higher mileage, more force may be needed.
Update 07-27-08
Just an update to this thread... I have since sold the car as of March '08 to Breane24 here on the boards. For any questions on handling, comfort, etc, please contact her. My personal feelings of this suspension are as followed:
After driving the car for over 2.5 years with the HPA SHS sport coilover suspension, I personally find it a little too soft for my liking. To achieve the height I wanted (1-finger gap) I had to be all of the way down on the coils. Only 1/8" of threads remained on the shock body. At this height, the dampening has gone soft. If it was still my car, I would have upgraded to a stiffer spring rate, or gone with an entirely different setup. One that is both height, and dampening adjustment.
On Another note, I have added torque specs courtesy of P C.
*Disclaimer - I am not held responsible for any misinformation, yet I try to keep it all set correctly. Install and modify your car as you please, use common sense, wear proper safety equipment, and use proper torque specifications and installation procedures. This is to be used AS A GUIDE ONLY
If you plan on doing the coilover installation on your own, you will want want to pick up these following tools to make your installation go smooth without any issues.
Strut Spreader Tool - $15

21mm and 22mm Strut Nut Sockets - $35

-To order, click HERE
Other tools needed for the installation:
10mm 6 pt socket
16mm 6 pt socket
17mm 6 pt socket
18mm deep and short 6 pt socket
21mm socket (same as tool listed above at metalnerd)
27mm 6 pt socket (for GLI axle bolt)
Torque wrench
Spring compressors
3" socket extension
17mm open ended wrench
18mm open ended wrench
T-25 torx bit
VW Tool 3424 (strut spreader tool pictured above)
14mm 12-point allen key
7mm allen socket
6mm allen socket
5mm allen socket
Assortment of open ended and box wrenches
Other needed tools and equipment:
4 Jack stands
1 floor jack (preferably low profile if available)
1 set of wheel chocks
Lithium grease or other prefered lubricant
Lots of GoJo or prefered hand cleaner
Box of shop rags
Misc air tools and compressor, if available. Otherwise, ratches.
Step #1 - Disassembly
Start by loosening all wheel lugs (17mm). Loosen front axle bolts (27mm) while car is on the ground. Make sure to only loosen at this point. Raise car up and remove all wheels. Set aside, in a fashion that you can remember which wheels went where, unless you need to rotate tires, etc.
Figure 1

Figure 2

Front of vehicle, remove all brake sensor wires, pad sensors, and remove from strut assembly. Remove upper front sway bar link (18mm 6 pt socket) from strut housing and move connecting rod to the side. Remove auto-leveling headlight unit (10mm) from front left lower control arm (figure 1). Continue by loosening and removing the strut pinch bolt (18mm and 12pt 10 or 12mm triple square allen, figure 2). Once finished, insert strut spreader tool (13mm) and turn ratchet 90 degrees. You will hear the strut begin to spread apart. Use PB Blaster around the base of the strut, allow to seap into the knuckle. Remove 3 lower ball joint nuts (13mm) and set aside. Remove the first axle nut, and set aside in a clean area, free of dirt. Pull axle out (may need deadblow, or some other item) and suspend with bungie cord, or other means to hold item up. While pulling axle out, pull base of steering knuckle away from car. This will allow you to pull the hub away from the strut, and will be free (figure 3).
Figure 3

At top, remove rain tray. Remove wiper blade (13mm) and pull carefully not to break the plastic around the wipers and windows. Once removed, remove the 3 bolts (13mm) from the strut tower you're working on. Have someone below to grab the strut so it doesnt get banged up.
Once the strut is removed, attach your spring compressors, and compress the spring. Once the lower hat portion moves freely, use the special double sided 21/22mm socket, along with the 7mm allen and extension to remove the upper spring hat. Use of some PB Blaster on the strut will be needed as thread locker is used to keep the nuts secure from the factory. Use of impact gun to slightly loosen nut is recommeneded if available. Once apart, set items aside, and transfer over to the coilovers. Insert the plastic fitting supplied with the HPA SHS setup, and press into bottom of spring hat. Reassemble using new parts from coilover setup. Install the hat, using the new nylon nut supplied. Use the 22mm double socket, along with 6mm allen and extension to tighten strut down to upper hat.
Reassemble in car in reverse order. DO NOT reattach sway bar link until revers side is completed. Do other side, as above. Once completed, reattach sway link in same order as removed. When reassmbling, be sure to tighten to OE specifications, which are also supplied in the KW/HPA instruction manual.
For the rear of the vehicle:
Remove wheel, and any sensors. Remove upper strut bolts (16mm) from the body at the top. Make sure you are NOT under the vehicle as the rear arms will come down. Remove control arm bolt and nut from knuckle. This will allow you to pull the spring out. Continue by removing the lower shock bolt. Once fully removed, reinstall new bump stops that came with kit onto new shocks, and attach using 5mm allen and a closed end wrench (17mm) Once finished, reinstall shock first, and attach to body above, followed by the lower shock bolt. Install new spring with adjustbale perches on the top. Make sure you allign your spring in the fashion it came out. Raise lower portion of control arm up until it is able to be lined up with knuckle, and attach in same fashion as was removed.
Do same for reverse side.
Reinstall wheels, lugs, covers, etc. Go over all bolts and make sure everything is torqued down. Lower/raise to appropriate height, as needed. This may take a while to acheive the proper ride height, but once completed, you'll be a happy camper.
Im sorry that I didnt get enough pictures, if I have things apart soon, I'll try and take some more. The HPA/KW instructions are very well writen once you look at things in the car. As they were writen for a 2.5L, there are some difference, but those differences are listed above, in this write up (ie, fastener sizes, no use of auto leveling headlights, etc).
Quote, originally posted by p c »
torque specs:
-Suspension strut mount to damper Use new nut - 60 Nm
-Suspension strut to wheel bearing housingt Use new nut 70 Nm + quarter turn (90°)
-Suspension strut to body (suspension strut tower)t Use new bolts 15 Nm + quarter turn (90°)
-Ball joint to control armt Use new nut 60 Nm
-Connecting link to suspension strut Use new nut
-Counter hold at joint pin inner multi-point fitting 65 Nm
-Drive axle to wheel hub “hex head bolt”t Use new bolt 200 Nm + one half turn (180°)
-Drive axle to wheel hub “12-point bolt”t Use new bolt 70 Nm + quarter turn (90°)

this how to help alot: http://furmanka.blogspot.com/2....html

If anyone has questions, please drop me a PM, or catch me on AIM. Again, use this for informational purposes only.
Enjoy your newly lowered car,
Steve



Modified by Scuba2001 at 11:38 PM 7-25-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (crew217)

Thank you Dave for sending me their way... Much appreciated.
Today came the new parts to go along with the tools above, which I also was surprised that I got this afternoon. A full day sooner then I thought.
But, most of all, I was much more happy when I got home and saw these sitting on my bed:

Thanks to the folks at HPA and KW for putting this group buy together, and for making such beautiful parts. Im going to hate getting these things dirty.
A full installation write up and detailed picture will be up once these go on the car Monday morning.
Steve
 

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Re: (Diesel GLI)

I did my old Mk IV GTI - it's doable, not all that hard, but I won't do it again. I paid an Audi mechanic $150 to do my last Jetta - well worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well Ive swapped suspensions on the Passat 2-3 times, and also did 1 Mk2, 1 Mk 3, and 1 Mk4, all fairly the same for the most part. Now I'll have mk5 to add to it. The instructions look more involved, but once I get things going, things should go fairly smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow, what an ordeal. did it in about 3.5 hours, all the way around.
Details in a few minutes. Didnt get enough pictures, but the details will be good.
 

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Re: (Scuba2001)

Quote, originally posted by Scuba2001 »
Wow, what an ordeal. did it in about 3.5 hours, all the way around.
Details in a few minutes. Didnt get enough pictures, but the details will be good.

Anxiously awaiting more info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: (VWNUBEE)

Quote, originally posted by VWNUBEE »
Anxiously awaiting more info http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Write up is all done for now. I forgot some things, as its late. But i'll reread it in the morning and add as needed.
Some more pictures:

Stock rear suspension, HPA SHS Front coilover. MUCH lower.

Front ride height

Rear ride height

Front-Side shot

Im sorry for the crappy pictures. Better ones once I get the car cleaned up and such tomorrow afternoon.
 

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hey man, i had mine installed today, and a few things i have issues with are...
my steering wheel is now "off center" by about 1"... is this fixed by getting the alignment done...?
2 is the rears are too low... i didn't have time to stay and have them readjust them, so i took it as it was, and told them i would come back when i had some time...
how easily are the rears adjsutable...? what steps would be taken to do so, and do you need to use the wrenches to adjust the rear or what...?
thanks man... the ride is EXCELLENT... it mirrors stock, but seems to have even MORE damping than the OEM dampers...
i am very pleased, and will be ecstatic once i get my rears back up to where i want them... right now they are a bit tucked, which i don't care for myself...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (Diesel GLI)

The alignment will fix the off center issue. My wheel is the same. Ive waited a week to get an alignment to allow time for the springs to settle, and you should do the same. Once a week has passed, had your shop adjust the ride height, and then do an alighnment.
In the rear, you can remove the wheels. On the spring perch, there is an adjustable ring colar. You take the wrenches that were supplied in the kit, and loosen things until you get the height you wanted. Be sure to have similar heights on each of the rear perches.
Glad that you like them so far.
For my 1 week experience, they arent quite stiff enough for me. Being that the car is TOO low, Im going to raise things up a bit and see if that improves things. If you want the best out of the coilovers, you want the control arms to be as level as possible. So thats what Im going to work on over the weekend.
 

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Re: (Scuba2001)

well, i have to take the car into the dealer on Monday for some work, and i was going to have them readjust the rears if they would and have them do the alignment...
is that too soon... how much do these things "really" settle...? i've always thought that was some myth about springs settling...
i personally am glad they are not on the too stiff side... i could tell a difference in the car feeling more planted tonight on the way home from work though... i drove through an S turn over a bridge that has an elevation drop, and before the car felt a "bit" floaty... tonight, it felt planted to the gorund on the elevation drop, in the rain too... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
In the instruction booklet, it says that they settle 5mm's after a few days.
I'd still wait a week before alignment, if at all possible. If you absolutly cant wait, then do it then. Being aftermarket, I doubt that the dealer will have anything to do with adjusting them though.
Good luck
 

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Re: (EvilEyez)

Nice work, Scuba... thank you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


Modified by sebastianjbauer at 3:33 PM 10-8-2005
 
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