[Kimdongpoonn]

So car runs pretty damn good, but according to my afr gauge its rich io top. Close to 11 still. I've got slightly larger mains, I think 150s iirc. The pilots were changed out for two sizes larger so that itd idle and decel properly. Do i need smaller mains?? I'm really close to swapping a 1.8t in lol.

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[mdelvalle1]

Thank's guys for the replys!

So to try and answer all the questions:

- The pump is a R1 pump, don't know the fuel pressure
- I don't have a AFR/o2 sensor or gauge
- Choke is not hooked up
- The oil doesn't smell a lot like fuel, but it doesn't smell like only oil... i think that there is a bit of fuel in it
- Float level for me is the standard, i just made sure that all 4 where the same. i didn't find an exact information about it, if you have some information about the mesurement that it should have when installed on the 16v, it would be really helpfull
- Idle screw ajustment is at 2 and 1/2 turns


Today i made this:

- Changed the ajustment screw to 1 turn only, absolutely no change, engine starts immediatly and stays at 1k rpm.
- Looked the timing and i have +9/10° degrees of advance.
- Hooked up my gauges for the syncronization of the carburettors, they are all good
- Spark plugs are black and somewhat greassy


The car runs like crazy!! It has tons of power! so she is running right and reving with no problems. But i only made like 10 miles

I'm waiting for 170 jets that should be arriving soon, but don't even know if that will make a difference

Enlighten me please!!

Sounds logic but, are you using the R1 carb fuel pump (2261YM07501)? not the fuel injection fuel pump (2CR-13907-01-00), carbs use low pressure for work correctly 2-5 psi, injection use a high pressure fuel pump.

 

[mdelvalle1]

Sounds logic but, are you using the R1 carb fuel pump (2261YM07501)? not the fuel injection fuel pump (2CR-13907-01-00), carbs use low pressure for work correctly 2-5 psi, injection use a high pressure fuel pump.

Also see the height in your needles, maybe too high.
Check the fuel pump works correctly. It should run for a few seconds and stop working when carb deposits are filled with fuel, and then works again and again in a cycle.
Check the float valve in the carbs,maybe not closing when carbs are totally filled.

 

[dish00]

I need some education...

I bought the car with a 2.0l 16v with R1 carbs. Having some running rich issues after messing with things. I recently replace the jets and almost ready to put the carbs back on the car however the carbs had the throttle switches from the regular throttle body connected to the carbs. One of the wires has came loose from the idle throttle sensor so I was looking to replace with another set of throttle switches I had in the parts bin. I cannot get the switches to line up so the idle switch is pressed in at idle and the WOT switch press when wide open.

I don't really understand what this system does. Can anyone explain? Also is there a different/better way to do this. Ive included some photo which hopefully show my setup.

Also, I have seen reference to Air/Fuel gauges. My car does not have one installed. What would be recommended as a setup for this?

Thanks

[/url]IMG_2122-1 by Photography Dish, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]119480165_10158488053747209_3169879408630457300_o by Photography Dish, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]119330607_10158488052657209_6203220284465186965_o by Photography Dish, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[YJSAABMAN]

IIRC the idle switches and WOT are related to the ignition system and the timing advance under the conditions where they are tripped.

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[mdelvalle1]

i need some education...

I bought the car with a 2.0l 16v with r1 carbs. Having some running rich issues after messing with things. I recently replace the jets and almost ready to put the carbs back on the car however the carbs had the throttle switches from the regular throttle body connected to the carbs. One of the wires has came loose from the idle throttle sensor so i was looking to replace with another set of throttle switches i had in the parts bin. I cannot get the switches to line up so the idle switch is pressed in at idle and the wot switch press when wide open.

Simply repair the wire in the switch, you cant line up the switches because they are different ones.

I don't really understand what this system does. Can anyone explain? Also is there a different/better way to do this. Ive included some photo which hopefully show my setup.

The wot switch plays a role in the ignition timing, but only when you´re using the ignition control module from the r1, i think you´re not, so this is irrelevant.

What was the switch connected to?

Also, i have seen reference to air/fuel gauges. My car does not have one installed. What would be recommended as a setup for this?

Thanks

[/url]img_2122-1 by photography dish, on flickr[/img]

[/url]119480165_10158488053747209_3169879408630457300_o by photography dish, on flickr[/img]

[/url]119330607_10158488052657209_6203220284465186965_o by photography dish, on flickr[/img]

simply repair the wire in the switch, you cant line up the switches because they are different ones

the wot switch plays a role in the ignition timing, but only when you´re using the ignition control module from the r1, i think you´re not, so this is irrelevant.

What was the switch connected to?

 

[allans]

So I’ve got yamaha r1 carbs on my 1.8l 8v running now, only issue is that my accelerator pedal has very little travel, I’ve been told you can either modify the pedal or the carb, anyone done this or have pictures of what is needed?

 

[lonchovalle]

So I’ve got yamaha r1 carbs on my 1.8l 8v running now, only issue is that my accelerator pedal has very little travel, I’ve been told you can either modify the pedal or the carb, anyone done this or have pictures of what is needed?

Simply install an actuator lever hooked to the carb pulley to increase the travel of the pedal, i do it to mine, send you pictures later.

 

[lonchovalle]

 

[[email protected]]

I made myself new throttle cable drum

note the eliptical shape it gives more resolution for light load and small throttle opening.

 

[YJSAABMAN]

More great info in here, thanks guys!

Today I dug my project out from under the piles of crap it has accumulated over the years. Really just to be able to move it out of the garage to work on other projects in the space. I did get to open the hood and gaze upon it for a bit, though!

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[lonchovalle]

Hi all, here is what i did, hope it will be useful

Engine 1.8 8V, CBR 900RR carbs, stock ignition, centrifugal dizzy with vacuum advance unpluged, mechanical fuel pump with fuel restrictor to carbs.
Number of test	slow jet size	idle screws turns out	main jet size	Needle jet height	Results
1	40	3	155	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and low power with bad revving, running hot and too lean
2	40	3	165	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and low power with bad revving, running hot and too lean
3	40	3	180	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and super bad revving and no power at all, really bad MPG, super black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running super rich
4	50	1.5	165	standard	Bad idle, better throttle response and better revving, feels a bit of power, bad MPG, black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running rich
5	50	1.5	155	standard	Bad idle, better throttle response and better revving, feels a bit of power, bad MPG, black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running rich
6	50	1	155	standard	Better idle, better throttle response and revving, feels more power, better MPG, spark plugs with light carbon build up, running rich
7	50	3/4	150	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, feels more power, better MPG, spark plugs very with light carbon build up, running rich yet
8	50	1/2	150	standard	good idle, good throttle response and reving, can feel the power, nice MPG, spark plugs with very light carbon build up almost unperceptible, running almost normal
					At this point i get an AFR narrow band gauge, the numbers at idle was oscilating between 14.3-14.6, at WOT oscilating between 12.3-13, maybe use a 140 mains, play with needle heights and see what happens

 

[lonchovalle]

New update:

Engine 1.8 8V, CBR 900RR carbs, stock ignition, centrifugal dizzy with vacuum advance unpluged, mechanical fuel pump with fuel restrictor to carbs.
Number of test	slow jet size	idle screws turns out	main jet size	Needle jet height	Results
1	40	3	155	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and low power with bad revving, running hot and too lean
2	40	3	165	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and low power with bad revving, running hot and too lean
3	40	3	180	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and super bad revving and no power at all, really bad MPG, super black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running super rich
4	50	1.5	165	standard	Bad idle, better throttle response and better revving, feels a bit of power, bad MPG, black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running rich
5	50	1.5	155	standard	Bad idle, better throttle response and better revving, feels a bit of power, bad MPG, black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running rich
6	50	1	155	standard	Better idle, better throttle response and revving, feels more power, better MPG, spark plugs with light carbon build up, running rich
7	50	3/4	150	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, feels more power, better MPG, spark plugs with light carbon build up, running rich yet
8	50	1/2	150	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, can feel the power, nice MPG, spark plugs with very light carbon build up almost unperceptible, running almost normal
					At this point i get an AFR narrow band gauge, the numbers at idle was oscilating between 14.3-14.6, at WOT oscilating between 12.3-13, maybe use a 140 mains play with needle heights and see what happens
9	50	1/2	140	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, +-25 MPG, spark plugs with no carbon build up, running normal, 14.3~14.6 at idle, 13~14 at WOT

 

[lonchovalle]

New update:

Engine 1.8 8V, CBR 900RR carbs, stock ignition, centrifugal dizzy with vacuum advance unpluged, mechanical fuel pump with fuel restrictor to carbs.
Number of test	slow jet size	idle screws turns out	main jet size	Needle jet height	Results
1	40	3	155	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and low power with bad revving, running hot and too lean
2	40	3	165	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and low power with bad revving, running hot and too lean
3	40	3	180	standard	Good idle, no throttle response and super bad revving and no power at all, really bad MPG, super black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running super rich
4	50	1.5	165	standard	Bad idle, better throttle response and better revving, feels a bit of power, bad MPG, black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running rich
5	50	1.5	155	standard	Bad idle, better throttle response and better revving, feels a bit of power, bad MPG, black spark plugs with carbon fouling, running rich
6	50	1	155	standard	Better idle, better throttle response and revving, feels more power, better MPG, spark plugs with light carbon build up, running rich
7	50	3/4	150	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, feels more power, better MPG, spark plugs with light carbon build up, running rich yet
8	50	1/2	150	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, can feel the power, nice MPG, spark plugs with very light carbon build up almost unperceptible, running almost normal
					At this point i get an AFR narrow band gauge, the numbers at idle was oscilating between 14.3-14.6, at WOT oscilating between 12.3-13, maybe use a 140 mains play with needle heights and see what happens
9	50	1/2	140	standard	good idle, good throttle response and revving, +-25 MPG, spark plugs with no carbon build up, running normal, 14.3~14.6 at idle, 13~14 at WOT

Some pics:

 

[lonchovalle]

Some pics: View attachment 62265 View attachment 62267 View attachment 62268 View attachment 62269 View attachment 62270