Synthetic Oil
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Re: Synthetic Oil (PAR75)
The added detergents, etc. in synthetic oil can dislodge buildups from conventional oil. This will let you know about any wearing gaskets/seals before it becomes a bigger problem. So if you start leaking after switching to synthetic its actually a good thing, cause you know what needs fixing!
You have the option of ignoring any such issues and just switching back to the other oil, but you run the risk of much more costly repairs later.
Hope that answers your question.
The added detergents, etc. in synthetic oil can dislodge buildups from conventional oil. This will let you know about any wearing gaskets/seals before it becomes a bigger problem. So if you start leaking after switching to synthetic its actually a good thing, cause you know what needs fixing!
You have the option of ignoring any such issues and just switching back to the other oil, but you run the risk of much more costly repairs later.
Hope that answers your question.
Re: Synthetic Oil (PAR75)
There is only a potential for seal problems to show up is if they already exist.Whatever type of oil you end up using it is important to use the right viscosity for your climate.Many here use Mobil 1 0W40 year round as it covers all bases temp wise.
Here's a website to visit if you wanna learn more about oilhttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com
BTW,
Delo 400 15W40 is a good alternative to a synthetic in temps above 32f for your VR6.
Alan
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| Quote, originally posted by PAR75 » |
| I'm thinking of swithcing to synthetic oil. My VR6 has 107,000 miles on it and I'm not sure if it's had synthetic before (I'm the 2nd owner, bought it at 77,000). Are there any potential issues with seal damage or anything like that? |
There is only a potential for seal problems to show up is if they already exist.Whatever type of oil you end up using it is important to use the right viscosity for your climate.Many here use Mobil 1 0W40 year round as it covers all bases temp wise.
Here's a website to visit if you wanna learn more about oilhttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com
BTW,
Delo 400 15W40 is a good alternative to a synthetic in temps above 32f for your VR6.
Alan
Re: Synthetic Oil (300B)
I know nothing about oil viscosity. Looking back on my service records I've had both 20 50 and 5 30 in my motor. I live in Northern California, the daytime temp rarely gets below 45 F and rarely above 100 F. I'm obviously fine with what I've been using, but could I get more performance, engine life, gas mileage, etc. with going to a different weight (synthetic)?
I know nothing about oil viscosity. Looking back on my service records I've had both 20 50 and 5 30 in my motor. I live in Northern California, the daytime temp rarely gets below 45 F and rarely above 100 F. I'm obviously fine with what I've been using, but could I get more performance, engine life, gas mileage, etc. with going to a different weight (synthetic)?
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Re: Synthetic Oil (eurozex)
i live in toronto canada, just did a motul 5w40. what weight is good for winter? temps are usually -30 degrees CELCIOUS.
i live in toronto canada, just did a motul 5w40. what weight is good for winter? temps are usually -30 degrees CELCIOUS.
Re: Synthetic Oil (300B)
Delo 400 is what i ran in my 8v and the VR6... damn good oil. Probably run mobil 1 in the 1.8T when i get around to changing the oil in it.
| Quote, originally posted by 300B » |
| There is only a potential for seal problems to show up is if they already exist.Whatever type of oil you end up using it is important to use the right viscosity for your climate.Many here use Mobil 1 0W40 year round as it covers all bases temp wise. Here's a website to visit if you wanna learn more about oilhttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com BTW, Delo 400 15W40 is a good alternative to a synthetic in temps above 32f for your VR6. Alan
|
Delo 400 is what i ran in my 8v and the VR6... damn good oil. Probably run mobil 1 in the 1.8T when i get around to changing the oil in it.
Re: Synthetic Oil (eurozex)
if 0w-40 is good enough for them thats your choice. Its not really the weight that matters. Its how offten you change it. If you want to look at oil rating in one manner look at it this way. The leading number is the cold viscosity rating. The second is where the viscosity goes when the oil is up to its running temp.
While 0w-40 is low in viscosity while cold that means it does not have any resistance to flow. Good on cold start. What you can't read between the lines is most oils do not have a protection number. This is the "residue"; if you will, of oil that stays on metal after sitting for a while. Cold starts are the most important time for protection.
A 0w will flow nice but does it protect is the real question!
if 0w-40 is good enough for them thats your choice. Its not really the weight that matters. Its how offten you change it. If you want to look at oil rating in one manner look at it this way. The leading number is the cold viscosity rating. The second is where the viscosity goes when the oil is up to its running temp.
While 0w-40 is low in viscosity while cold that means it does not have any resistance to flow. Good on cold start. What you can't read between the lines is most oils do not have a protection number. This is the "residue"; if you will, of oil that stays on metal after sitting for a while. Cold starts are the most important time for protection.
A 0w will flow nice but does it protect is the real question!
Re: Synthetic Oil (littlenr)
Truthfully despite any claims by any manufacturers the best way to tell how an oil is doing in your engine is by getting a used oil analysis done by a good lab.
| Quote, originally posted by littlenr » |
| if 0w-40 is good enough for them thats your choice. Its not really the weight that matters. Its how offten you change it. If you want to look at oil rating in one manner look at it this way. The leading number is the cold viscosity rating. The second is where the viscosity goes when the oil is up to its running temp. While 0w-40 is low in viscosity while cold that means it does not have any resistance to flow. Good on cold start. What you can't read between the lines is most oils do not have a protection number. This is the "residue"; if you will, of oil that stays on metal after sitting for a while. Cold starts are the most important time for protection. A 0w will flow nice but does it protect is the real question! |
Truthfully despite any claims by any manufacturers the best way to tell how an oil is doing in your engine is by getting a used oil analysis done by a good lab.
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