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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm trying to test the resistance on my wiper and t/s stalks as i'm pretty sure i've narrowed my issues down to here.
can anyone offer some insight as to whether i'm doing this right? i'm following the bentley's directions for the wiper switch. i set my meter to ohms 200 (lowest #) and then i'm attaching the terminals to the corresponding points the book lists and i'm operating whichever speed it is on the stalk with the key in the ignition. for some the reading seems to freak out going all over the place and then eventually settles at 1.5. some don't ever settle and keep jumping around: 37.9, 20.8, 10.5, 1.7, before cycling through again. others i get no reading, the meter stays at 1. without changing. is the switch toast?
as far as the t/s resistance...all i've been able to check per the bentley is the voltage. i get 12v to L and R, and 2.5v to the middle wire that goes to the hazard switch...when i turn on the hazards that 2.5 cycles up to 12v and then comes back, repeating to the clicks of the relay. how do i check the actual t/s switch though?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

update: after poking around some related forums i found some advice saying to bridge a red and white wire behind the hazard switch and test the turn signals. when i did this the dim green light finally went out and i had turn signal functionality. what does this mean though? bad hazard switch? i can't safely fashion a permanent wire bridge could i?
 

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Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

Intro:
- Are you testing Voltages w/ the Meter set to OHMs?
- Begine again with:
"My car is a xxxx & my symptoms are yyyy...", if you would please Sir.
btw- the voltage jumping up and slowly lowering is a good result for testing something else int he Ign System, damn'd if I can remember what at the moment while I type this, but it's a capacitor (maybe charging the coil?) or diod doing it's job.

TBerk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (TBerk)

thanks tberk.

yeah it's an 85 8v. i've been having some issues with my turn signals for weeks. i have now wired things up correctly so that i can get all the lights to flash when the hazards are turned on. when i try the t/s with the stalk i get a solid light in the cluster and at the turns. i discovered yesterday that when i bridge a white and red wire going into the back of the hazard switch the light in the cluster goes away and the turns work. why? should i just permanently run a wire back there? is that safe?
as far as the wipers. i'm not getting any power to the harness connector for the wiper motor. tried putting in a new relay but still nothing. the metering was meant to rule out the wiper stalk which seems to be malfunctioning though i'm not sure. if i get no reading at all from some of the terminals i'm assuming it's failed the test.
i have the meter set to ohms and am checking for continuity.




Modified by intro at 7:52 AM 10-19-2008
 

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Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

If you are checking continuity, you do not have ANY power going to those circuits, right? You've pulled the fuse or unhooked the battery right? Just in case you haven't, resistance is measured without power. Having power to the circuit will not give you a good reading and may damage the meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (crazyaboutrocs)

ok thanks. when i switch to ohms 200 i get a 1. on the display. what about when the numbers don't change at all and it stays at 1. when i'm reading. is that a 0 reading?
 

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Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

Touch the two leads from the meter together.. you should read 0. Not touching, is infinite resistance.. no reading. If you've been checking resistance with the power on, you may have fried the meter. There's usually a little glass tube fuse inside the meter case to protect the movement, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

does anyone have any idea wether i can just bridge those two hazard switch terminals together and drive around like that to take care of my turn signal problem. i'm assuming it means my hazard switch is defective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

ok new problem: so i just made the bridge more permanent and it worked but while i was reconnecting the power wire to the hazard switch i hit some other wire i shouldn't have and zapped the switch. now i have no hazard switch. sh*t never stops it seems. i tried swapping out that resistor on the back of the hazard switch as I'm assuming that's what blew but no dice. the one i put in was a 10 ohm 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance. anyone know the exact specs for this resistor?
also when it got zapped it blew the t/s fuse.
Modified by intro at 4:45 AM 10-20-2008


Modified by intro at 4:45 AM 10-20-2008
 

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Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (intro)

I'm posting way late at night so this is just a reply to say- I'll be back at you on Monday.
A jumper as you describe should not be a permanent solution. Better to figure out why the thing isn't right and correct the root problem.
Without knowing more the basic idea w/ jumper wires as you describe is they may lead to more problems down the line.
Hang it there, you are not abandoned.

TBerk
 

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Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (crazyaboutrocs)

Ok, on the wipers, do you have voltage to the plug for the switch? If you do, do you have a spare switch you could swap in? If you do have voltage to it, most likely it's the switch, unless wiring further down the line is messed up.
As for ts, do you have another hazard switch you can try? It's been awhile since I've diagnosed one of these, but the last time I had screwed up blinkers, it was the hazard switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: testing continuity of wiper and t/s switches (crazyaboutrocs)

there's two wires going to the wiper switch. i do have voltage to the smaller one with like 4 pins and a yellow/red wire. is that for the high beams though or the washer pump?
 
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