VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
841 - 860 of 871 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
So I've spent some time looking at the cooling options that VW have used for this transmission. The Vanagon version [090] has cooler ports in the back of the housing [or is it the front because it's mounted backwards?], the Porsche [087] has them on the side of the differential housing, and the Audi [087] has them on the back like the Vanagon [correct me if I'm wrong].

I have checked the Porsche and the cooling ports are on the torque converter drain side. That makes sense because the oil coming out of the torque converter is hotter than any other oil in the transmission. So if you could cool that oil before it gets dumped into the pan, then that is good. Since it's just returning oil, you are not messing with the pressure side of the system.

I have looked at the Vanagon/Audi and have not seen any literature that shows where the oil is coming or going. Someday I may find out but at this time the answer is, I do not know.

Looking at Transaxle Engineering site [https://www.transaxleengineering.com/3-speed-auto] they seem to tap into the drain portion of the torque converter too. If you read their site long enough you will find out where they say it's better than the factory oil cooler ports at the back of the case.

So with the TJ differential housing, where do you tap into the converter drain so you can divert that to the cooler? That is where I'm at. I believe I can drill or weld an aluminum fitting into the drain port before it gets to the transmission case. It's easy to plug the port, but not so easy to divert the oil.

So the earlier post on page 1 is not ideal since I believe they are tapping into the pressure side and the pump can only flow so much. Any pressure diverted would be pressure lost that the pump may not be able to keep up with. That and wouldn't it be best to cool the hottest oil before it gets to the pan?

More to follow and yes, pictures too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
We run one of the "built" 010's in our drag car. We spent a lot of time working with Jeff at Transaxle to get these boxes to work for drag racing. They are probably tapping off the back for the cooler because they run such higher pressure. He offers an upgraded pump drive along with the high pressure from the reverse / manual valve body. You should be able to build a very strong transmission. Our limiitation in the front wheel drive configuration was the input shaft. Jeff made a run of 300M shafts. There is a lot of info in this thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
It's just a smart move to cool the hottest oil before it goes to the pan. The other advantage is that this hot oil have very little pressure too. Overall, it's a pretty simple decision where to cool the oil. Cool the hot low pressure oil.

After tearing apart the torque converter drain port, the check ball is substantially larger on the Porsche vs VW. I believe the feed ports to the converter are the same but I need to confirm that. I'm going to enlarge the drain port hole in the VW case to match the size of the Porsche. I will install a ball check somewhere else in the cooler line [before the cooler] so the torque converter will not drain back. I do not believe I can do that successfully in the stock location but that's my first choice. I believe enlarging the drain port will allow more flow out of the converter and therefore allow more cooling. I need to confirm the pressure side of it can keep up. It should, I just need to confirm.

As for drag racing, that is not me. So I believe I will be ok with the stock stuff. I'm going to look into adding more clutches, firming up the accumulator, and raising the main pressure but no harden shafts for me. Just a stronger street transmission that you can do at home.

I've read all the pages of this thread. There is a lot of information on them but I just wanted to add my twist on other peoples fixes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
I spent some time with this torque converter drain circuit and took out the calipers to do some measuring.

010 087
2.5mm drain orifice 2.5mm
4.7mm drain tube 8.0mm
3.5mm check ball 5.9mm
2.5mm check ball orifice 4.75mm

So the drain orifice [just under the bushing] is 2.5mm on both transmissions but everything else is larger on the 087. I would like to enlarge the drain orifice slightly to allow more cooling but I'm not certain what pressure change would be inside the converter. If I did enlarge the orifice, then I know I would have to move the check ball since I doubt if I could machine a nice sealing surface so a larger ball could do it's job. I see no drawbacks about moving the check ball.

I'm real certain I will be tapping the drain port at the aluminum differential housing just before it dumps into the transmission housing. Plugging the hole at the exit port should be easy. Returning the cooled oil to the transmission housing is something I have not decided upon but I'm not stressed about either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
Found a link to a ton of VAG self-study manuals, and there is an 010 one...although it's all in german. It's sorta helpful because it shows there are TWO ports feeding fluid to the accumulator, not just one. Pages 46-47 are of particular fun, it shows exactly what is receiving/sending fluid pressure with the stick in 'D' :D. The accumulator is only half-deleted, according to those pages. That's the closest thing to fluid diagrams I have been able to find :(.

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_8.PDF

There are a LOT more self-study guides there, but all the early stuff is in german.
Anyone need a translation of this manual, I just cracked it. PM me if you want a copy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
Finally my second TJ transmission came in, the pinion shaft bearing is welded to the pinion shaft. Damn. The same exact part ruined. I talked to a machine shop and he indicated that if I welded it, he could grind the surface to spec. $250. With all the money I've dumped into this, I could have had a custom gear made.

Oh well, it's just money, I'll have to make more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
I noticed the older turbo diesel transmissions had a factory transmission cooler that was attached to the differential housing. So guess what I'm searching for?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...bo-diesel&highlight=turbo+diesel+transmission [picture of the cooler]. It appears with this housing, they are tapping into the oil ports where I want to. If I can get this housing, then I would not have too.

The Vanagon set up is attached to the rear of the transmission. I believe that they are getting the hot oil at the oil pump overflow [return]. I would rather get the hot oil at the torque converter and cooling it before it gets to the pan vs getting it at the oil pump.

What is happening now? After purchasing the second TJ transmission, I found the pinion shaft bearing seized to the shaft. Not wanting to search/purchase a third transmission I searched for repair options. I found a local place that does flame welding. They have the shaft now and he told me that it should not be a problem on fixing it. Just another $250 wasted. By the time I get a good ring/pinion set up, it will cost me at least $1000. Oh well, I'll just have to make more money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Rebuilding 010 Trans

I have been away from the Mk1/Mk2 VW community for awhile, but I'm back now. Picked up a 1992 Wolfsburg Cabriolet with a bad auto trans for my son who will be driving in the next year. Would drive in first, but never upshift and would not go into reverse. I have always only had manual VWs in the past so this is the first auto trans rebuild I have attempted. Bought a rebuild kit and several other parts, I have now taken the trans completely apart and put it back together about 4 times as I get everything to fit back together :banghead:. Finally noticed inside bearing on the input shart (pinion?) is bent so time to try and find one and replace it. Always looking for info on the transmission, hopefully when it goes back in the car it will go :D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
010 Automatic Transmission Questions

Hey Guys;

I am sorry to be bringing this thread back from the dead, but I have a few questions about the 010 that I wanted to run past the experts here...

I am in the process of restoring the 1990 Jetta GLI that my Mom bought new back in 1990. This car was sold in Canada and had a TNA automatic from the factory along with a 1.8L Digifant 8V engine. Before you tell me that this is impossible, I did get the "birth certificate" from Volkswagen in German and it confirmed the vehicle was built this way. I am going to be mating the transmission to an ABA bottom end.

In any case, I wanted to get some information on a few things...

1. What are some of the seals that should be replaced on this transmission?
2. If I remove the differential cover to replace the differential cover seal, can I refill the differential through the speedometer cable drive?
3. While the transmission is out of the car, should I replace the torque converter seal?
4. Any other maintenance tasks that I should do while the transmission is out of the car?

Here is a pictures of the transmission:




Thanks!
 

·
Registered
1985 VW Cabriolet
Joined
·
2,536 Posts
Anyone have any tricks to installing the gear selector cable?

Part 171713265C

I got the set screw end off the cable at the selector arm end.

Does the thicker rubber gromet that sits in the bracket just pop out and pop in?

I also had to cut the cable and pull it through the cabin as it seemed to be getting hung up somewhere. Is there a trick to feeding it back through?

Thanks for any help. A video would be awesome. But i couldnt find one
 

·
Registered
1985 VW Cabriolet
Joined
·
2,536 Posts
Anyone have any tricks to installing the gear selector cable?

Part 171713265C

I got the set screw end off the cable at the selector arm end.

Does the thicker rubber gromet that sits in the bracket just pop out and pop in?

I also had to cut the cable and pull it through the cabin as it seemed to be getting hung up somewhere. Is there a trick to feeding it back through?

Thanks for any help. A video would be awesome. But i couldnt find one


I got up a little early today and was able to fish a coat hanger from the cabin to the engine bay with a loop to hook on to the eye to pull the new cable through.

I am having a heck of a time getting out the old cable from the mounting bracket. The "oreo" of rubber grommets that mount to the bracket are proving very hard to get to. In addition to that I can't quite figure out how to get a wrench on either side of it to potentially loosen the sleeve nut on either side..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,348 Posts
This thread is not very active but I could try and take some pictures of the cable in my wife's car. I restored the Cabriolet recently and I not recall having issues with the cable on either end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
The rod ended up getting bent after this picture was taken. So thinking I will need to dismantle the transmission and try to push it through the transmission.

I'm expecting damage in the bore and was wondering can I get it bored out and a larger piston rod inserted or is this transmission garbage?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
You are going to have to remove the bent rod first, then measure it's diameter and then have a machine shop turn down a new rod exactly the same diameter to use a a guide rod to check rod play within the bore. If there is too much slop, it's toast. Cheaper and easier to just pick up a junkyard unit and rebuild that while it's out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
My speedo flaked (amongst other issues found when inspecting trans) on my 86 Cabby, pulled the speedometer drive gear pinion replaced a couple years ago, good news is its fine.
Bad news the speedo drive spur gear on the diff is ~balding, eventually tracked to part# 010409187B , which seems to be only stocked by a ebay seller in Latvia...

Took longer than expected to track down the part#, figured this was a good place for it.
(long discontinued by VW)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,952 Posts
Make sure that your shifter cable is pulling into the detents of the selector shaft. A loose cable can cause these issues. Also make sure that the shifter pod can manually be moved in to all gear positions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Ok....car finally arrived. Reverse works just fine. 1,2, and D do not seem to engage at all. The automatic shifter moves freely. When I shift into reverse, you can feel the car move into reverse. The other 3 gears do nothing. It feels like the transmission is not being "told" to go into gear.

Im not the best with transmission work, but isnt 1 and R connected in some way? I seems like if the first gear was out, reverse would be too.
 
841 - 860 of 871 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top