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Sachs SRE with the DMF is essentially the same clutch as the TTRS DIY clutch kit. Uses the same TTRS pressure plate and similar clutch discs if I remember correctly from my research. You could probably use them interchangeably, whichever one prices out better. Either should hold your IS20 GSW without issue.

As far as your DMF, since it's already slipping, consider changing it out. Or at least find a vendor that accepts returns, buy a brand new DMF and see what that installer says when they remove it. If it has hot spots, replace it. If it looks good, then you can maybe reuse your stock DMF and return the replacement. You'll end up having to redo the clutch again sooner than later if the DMF turns out to be a weak link. Also look into having the iABED RMS installed while you're in there, as a peace of mind item.

I did the TTRS DIY clutch (reused DMF), iABED RMS, BFI Stage 1 engine/transmission mounts, Powerflex 70A dogbone insert, and Porche Macan 345mm front brake upgrade all in one install and am very happy with the results. Ready to upgrade the turbo.
 

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Each time I read through this thread it becomes more confusing. Is it just me?

My 2015 APR II since 20k now has 86K on the factory clutch! The clutch is still holding, but I'd like to install one now because I'm living on borrowed time. I think this thread helped me at least figure out that I'd like a duel mass to keep it as close to stock as possible.

Any straight forward suggestions will be very appreciated.

thx
Wow! Good on you for getting that kind of service from a stock clutch especially with a tune. I have a stock 16 GTI S with 35k and the clutch is already slipping. Been driving mostly stick for 45 years so I'm a bit disappointed. Have you checked out the TRRS clutch? Seems to be a good intermediate choice. I have a quote for a South Bend $2200. That's more than I can tolerate at this point so I'm looking for a less expensive option.
 

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iAbed RMS seems a no brainer to replace with clutch when gearbox is out of the way but I’m not so sure it’s compatible with 1.8 engine. I thought it only fits on 2.0

Man the cheapest stock DMF available in Canada is like 875$... ridiculous.
I think you can get one for like 400$ in the states
 

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We drive the same car (GSW S 4Motion 6MT). Absolutely positive it works on the 1.8!

iAbed RMS seems a no brainer to replace with clutch when gearbox is out of the way but I’m not so sure it’s compatible with 1.8 engine. I thought it only fits on 2.0

Man the cheapest stock DMF available in Canada is like 875$... ridiculous.
I think you can get one for like 400$ in the states
 

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Wow! Good on you for getting that kind of service from a stock clutch especially with a tune. I have a stock 16 GTI S with 35k and the clutch is already slipping. Been driving mostly stick for 45 years so I'm a bit disappointed. Have you checked out the TRRS clutch? Seems to be a good intermediate choice. I have a quote for a South Bend $2200. That's more than I can tolerate at this point so I'm looking for a less expensive option.
Maybe I’m just the unlucky one but my south bend pressure plate failed after about 17k miles. I don’t track the car. I commute to work and pick up my son from school. I’m not a saint but it was never abused in any way. Never launched the car.

You can see the bent tines on the pressure plate. It trashed the throwout bearing. The uneven pressure created a situation where the disc wasn’t making full contact with the FW and PP. You can see the hot spots on the inner parts of the FW and PP where is was making contact but not holding under load. Corresponding wear on the disc as well.

Bad day for me.







I replaced it with the Ringer Racing kit and wow what an improvement in all areas. Pedal feel, chatter, engagement, daily drivability. Even with the stg 4 disc. Give them a look at least. Less known but it’s a kit made up of a Clutchmasters SMF, full face custom spec’d disc by ringer racing manufactured by Clutchmasters, and a Sachs pressure plate. I assume the TTRS part.

I already have more miles on it than the South Bend lasted and it’s doing great.


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If someone does want a South Bend stg2 daily on the cheap they did say they could rebuild it for me with a new PP for $400. You could even upgrade it to any of the stg3 configurations as the differences are in the disc only.

If someone wants this one to rebuild shoot me a fair offer and shipping from Minneapolis to South Bend or wherever.


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Only 17k miles. Bummer. After reading lots of reviews about SB clutches all over ZE INTERNETS, that kind of failure isn't typical.
Do you think the defective part was the TOB or the PP itself?

Damm those Racing Ringer kits seem awesome. I'm just on the wrong side of the US borders for that purpose.

I'm still debating between TTRS/RSR kit on stock DMF and a stage 2 Bully clutch. The thing is I'm waiting for some news from my tuning shop (quote and availability for both setup). COVID19 makes things complicated as SMF for bully clutche are BO for the moment. The US/CAN exchange rate is something tricky as well. CAN$ value drop like hell.

Maybe I’m just the unlucky one but my south bend pressure plate failed after about 17k miles. I don’t track the car. I commute to work and pick up my son from school. I’m not a saint but it was never abused in any way. Never launched the car.

You can see the bent tines on the pressure plate. It trashed the throwout bearing. The uneven pressure created a situation where the disc wasn’t making full contact with the FW and PP. You can see the hot spots on the inner parts of the FW and PP where is was making contact but not holding under load. Corresponding wear on the disc as well.

Bad day for me.



I replaced it with the Ringer Racing kit and wow what an improvement in all areas. Pedal feel, chatter, engagement, daily drivability. Even with the stg 4 disc. Give them a look at least. Less known but it’s a kit made up of a Clutchmasters SMF, full face custom spec’d disc by ringer racing manufactured by Clutchmasters, and a Sachs pressure plate. I assume the TTRS part.

I already have more miles on it than the South Bend lasted and it’s doing great.


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Only 17k miles. Bummer. After reading lots of reviews about SB clutches all over ZE INTERNETS, that kind of failure isn't typical.
Do you think the defective part was the TOB or the PP itself?

Damm those Racing Ringer kits seem awesome. I'm just on the wrong side of the US borders for that purpose.

I'm still debating between TTRS/RSR kit on stock DMF and a stage 2 Bully clutch. The thing is I'm waiting for some news from my tuning shop (quote and availability for both setup). COVID19 makes things complicated as SMF for bully clutche are BO for the moment. The US/CAN exchange rate is something tricky as well. CAN$ value drop like hell.
I think it was the pressure plate but its impossible to say for sure. It wasn’t a sudden failure. Is was slipping a little/feeling odd and progressively got worse.

Get a PO box in Vermont?


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I think it was the pressure plate but its impossible to say for sure. It wasn’t a sudden failure. Is was slipping a little/feeling odd and progressively got worse.

Get a PO box in Vermont?


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I don’t know anything about shipping car parts to canada but if you were to buy it from a local dealer/shop would it still be subject to the same taxes?

If you do like it maybe make a call to Mike at Ringer Racing a call. He chatted with me for a while about different options and the details of his kits. Maybe they have some options


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I used Kinek (shiptoborder) service in the past for my VMR wheels and it was awesome but US/CAN change rate were closer at that time. And COVID19 wasn't involved so was allowed to cross borders freely.
I did some maths with the Ringer Racing and the 1200$ kit would end at around 2200$CA if I include taxes at the borders. And I'm about 300km from borders.
So not sure its a good option money wise. Clutch isn't installed at that price.

I just realized Ringer Racing are located in Scottsdale AZ area. Were I was supposed to be next week for a 10day golf trip with brother/father. Canceled all that because Covid19. :mad:
Be safe all!

I think it was the pressure plate but its impossible to say for sure. It wasn’t a sudden failure. Is was slipping a little/feeling odd and progressively got worse.

Get a PO box in Vermont?


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I used Kinek (shiptoborder) service in the past for my VMR wheels and it was awesome but US/CAN change rate were closer at that time. And COVID19 wasn't involved so was allowed to cross borders freely.
I did some maths with the Ringer Racing and the 1200$ kit would end at around 2200$CA if I include taxes at the borders. And I'm about 300km from borders.
So not sure its a good option money wise. Clutch isn't installed at that price.

I just realized Ringer Racing are located in Scottsdale AZ area. Were I was supposed to be next week for a 10day golf trip with brother/father. Canceled all that because Covid19. :mad:
Be safe all!
But that’s just Canadian money

Just curious. But for instance if I were to sell you a clutch private party and ship it to you, would you be in the same boat money wise?


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Ahaha. I know canadian customs has a policy for no charge/customs for gift under 60$ value.


I'd have to investigate it further

But that’s just Canadian money

Just curious. But for instance if I were to sell you a clutch private party and ship it to you, would you be in the same boat money wise?


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RSR vs TTRS vs Sachs SRE with stock DMF

Ok would somebody help me find the differences between those 3 clutches and tell me if the following points are right?

To my understanding:

RSR and TTRS are very similar and both use a the stock clutch disc with an upgraded pressure plate (the one the Audi TTRS uses) that has more clamping force.

Sachs is different than the other two and is oem+ clutch. Don’t need to cheat the pilot holes on PP. It’s direct fit. Like the RSR-TTRS it has more clamping force.

Disc is different than the RSR/TTRS as it’s not the oem you find on the 6MT GTI. Material of the disc seems different, isn’t it?

Most reading makes me think the RSR/TTRS has more oem feel after break-in period. The SACHS remains slightly stiffer after break-in.

Thanks
 

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Dkm stage 3 twin disc

Hey guys, so finally getting ready to install dkm twin disc, wanted to see if there’s anything I should know before I start. Have read that some have gone with new oem tob replacement instead of the one that comes with the kit. Anything I should get as a replacement? Thanks
 

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DKM Flywheel Manufactured Wrong

My car is up on jacks, tranny out, was putting on the new DKM Stage 2 flywheel when I realized it was drilled wrong :banghead:
Supposed to hae 8 holes drilled, instead came with 6 drilled holes, with 1 hole spaced differently. Luckily ESCTuning was like ok, well send you one right away, Get here in 2 days :D
But cant get it installed until new bolts come in and this weekend.

Untitled by Ian Beckler, on Flickr[/IMG]
 

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Hey guys, so finally getting ready to install dkm twin disc, wanted to see if there’s anything I should know before I start. Have read that some have gone with new oem tob replacement instead of the one that comes with the kit. Anything I should get as a replacement? Thanks
Iabed rear main seal without a doubt. Good luck.


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New clutch installed

Reminder I'm is20 6MT 4MO GSW.
Stock clutch began to slip after only 8K km on is20 (18K km total on car). After long researches, I decided to go RSR route as stock DM flywheel should be fine and most RSR reviews are positive.

So yesterday car in the shop, gearbox removed, no visual sign of abuse or hot spots on DMF. But after that they did the "touch test" on the flywheel and there was lot of play and loose on it. Some wiggling when pressure applied on sides. They were not comfy in installing the RSR kit on it and that setup won't last long. They called me and sent a video of touch test. Got to say I was really surprised by that diagnosis but I trust that shop.

We agreed to go for a Plan B - we went for Bully Stage 2 clutch that uses SMF. Thats probably some south bend stage 2/3 equivalent. They had it in stock for another customer next week.
Need to do the 1000km break in period. Will give more definitive impressions after that.
So far pedal is about 30% stiffer vs stock (I like it). Pedal starts closer to the floor (I like it - OEM pedal course is way too long). Friction point is very small and very close to the floor(almost stall 2-3 times but didn't - need some adaptation). Things will change after break in period. BTW I did CTS intercooler as well, iAbed RMS and CTS short shifter.

Wallet is lighter but clutch file is closed.
 

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I've read just about this entire thread and I still don't know what to get. I would like a strong stage 2 so maybe around 420 but could hold up to 450 torque if I change my mind later to add more power. Has anyone purchased a clutch masters FX 300? The price is right. Many sites say that a hydraulic slave cylinder is sold separately, however when I search those same sites, they don't sell the slave cylinder or if they do it's for a twin disk clutch. I'm going to call clutch masters Monday to find out. Just wondering if anyone here has experience with it and if there's a lot of chatter. Thanks.
 

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I am having problems getting the hydraulic line back into my master cylinder I get it to lock in I press down on the clutch the clutch hits the floor and it pops out any ideas
 
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