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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few weeks ago a driver decided to drive on the opposite side of the road as my dad took the car out for a spin...to say the least the cabby didn't make it out alive.

It was my first car that my dad purchased from my uncle in the early 2000's and it sat in a garage until I started driving four or so years ago. After 190k the gasser was leaking from most seals and a diesel swap was completed. The car was fun and ran very well; it was always a head turner (as most of you know!).

Looks like it may be ok if the front clip gets replaced....


However the frame is completely bent, with crinkles extending behind the front seats. The car is gone, another one bit the dust :(


Time for the new.
Being in college does not allow for much extra money or time, but I wanted another cabby. After some good craigslist searching and looking at a few I found an 84 Rabbit Convertible that really appealed to me. It needed some work but was overall in good condition. Dad and I looked at it and then settled for a final price. The car was picked up the next day.
Overall I would say it is in pretty good condition and it is a great car to fix up. No rust :)
Some shots from the ad:




The first stop was to an auto parts store about 5 minutes from where we picked it up, we purchased some extra oil. As we walked out of the store we were greeted by a flat tire. Luckily my dad had a patch kit in the van and the guys at orileys graciously let us borrow a tire pump for free.


Some cell phone shots of the car at home




Not perfect, but not bad for an 84. The seals are only a little dry, none are ripped and busted :thumbup:
 

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Damn that sucks about your first Cabrio, but looks like you found a really clean replacement! Congrats and keep updating this thread!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought I'd attempt to fix the intermittent odometer.
I thought the problem would be fixed if I decreased the inner radius of the slipping metal gear. Was able to put three "miles" on it with the drill powering it. It didn't last more than a mile in the car until it decided to quit again. Took it apart and it spun just fine for 5 miles with the drill, it quit a mile later again..
No clue what it is as the red gear is just fine. I guess I'll have to take it apart again.


Yay....


Also discovered it needs a new drive axle...not only is the boot practically gone, so is almost all of the grease.

I also cleaned the inside, installed new seat sliders and grease, greased the door latches, replaced vacuum lines, and soldered two new connectors to the radiator fan harness. No pictures but I'll throw some up next weekend.
 

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I thought I'd attempt to fix the intermittent odometer.
I thought the problem would be fixed if I decreased the inner radius of the slipping metal gear. Was able to put three "miles" on it with the drill powering it. It didn't last more than a mile in the car until it decided to quit again. Took it apart and it spun just fine for 5 miles with the drill, it quit a mile later again..
No clue what it is as the red gear is just fine. I guess I'll have to take it apart again.


Yay....


Also discovered it needs a new drive axle...not only is the boot practically gone, so is almost all of the grease.

I also cleaned the inside, installed new seat sliders and grease, greased the door latches, replaced vacuum lines, and soldered two new connectors to the radiator fan harness. No pictures but I'll throw some up next weekend.
If the odo isn't working then that is usually the red gear slipping on the shaft.
The gear and the shaft actually power the tenths gear that moves all the others.
The other miles just spin on the shaft.

Clean the shaft and inside of the gear with alcohol.
Then try a drop of super glue on the gear after you get it on the shaft.
Allow it to dry...... or Dust it with baking powder as that will instantly dry the wet super glue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally got the odometer working. I think the grooves I made in the metal gear would catch on the metal housing of the odometer. So I installed a washer between the metal gear and the side of the housing. Seems to work. The red gear was on there so tight I didn't bother gluing it on. We'll see if I regret that decision later.

Coolant flush completed.

Eww..Don't know if it was green and turned brown or if it's a mix of two..... Now its G12++ though, I know that.


Pulled the door card off and found a little mold.



Good old lower steering column bearing temporary fix.



Last weekend of summer picture. Looks to have some rear cabby sag, or some front cabby lift going. Can't decide which.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I decided to attempt to fix the Kustom (yes with a k) speaker install..
I guess just cutting the door cards open a running a screw through them sufficed for some stupid PO :banghead:


I made a new door card that resembled the later ones. Flat and speakers were behind the black grilles.
Work in progress:


Luckily the seat covers the bottom of the speaker so the hole isnt as bad. The window crank was bent so I straightened it and then painted it flat black. Overall it doesn't look too bad for a cheap fix and it beats having ugly halfway installed speakers.


I also removed the eyelids. It looks much better without them.
 

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The window crank was bent so I straightened it and then painted it flat black.
On the 91.5-93 the window cranks have extensions on them to bring them out further so they can be used
with the extended grills for the speakers.



The Plastic rub washer that is under the handle was widened to cover this extended gap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I discovered that after mounting the old style and it hit the speaker grille and not being able to roll down the window.
So I pulled the extenders off of the cranks from the totaled 92 and mounted them on the 84 cranks in addition to the larger plastic rub washer.
 

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I have hidden a pair of decent sized speakers in the rear deck of mine.

All I did was remove the carpet, and put holes for larger speakers, mounted them in to the rear deck cover, and then just laid the carpet over it.

Much better cabin sound with a touch more volume and bass, and you'd never know they're there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have hidden a pair of decent sized speakers in the rear deck of mine.

All I did was remove the carpet, and put holes for larger speakers, mounted them in to the rear deck cover, and then just laid the carpet over it.

Much better cabin sound with a touch more volume and bass, and you'd never know they're there.
Hmm that is a thought. Especially now that topless weather has mostly subsided.
How did you wire them in? Just in parallel off of the rear speakers?
 

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Hmm that is a thought. Especially now that topless weather has mostly subsided.
How did you wire them in? Just in parallel off of the rear speakers?


The speakers came from a slightly older Chevrolet S10 Truck (1998 Extended Cab, they're in the rear pillars). They were removed from the truck and stored a great many years ago so they're still good and they were totally free!

I soldered the wires directly to the GM factory plugs. You can see the speaker wire spool there. Then all I did was connect them in to the rear lines. Gotta disconnect the ones in the rear panels because it will throw the resistance off. The radio is meant to drive 4 speakers at 4ohms each

If those old speakers that were in the car are good, I'd reuse them. Ones of that size will give excellent bass response and much warmer sound. They'll use the whole trunk pocket for bass reproduction.

Just do it like I did. Peel the carpet off the wood, then cut your holes, mount the speakers to the BOTTOM, then lay and glue the carpet back down, staple around the edges like VW did, and you'll love the sound, and you'll never even see the rear speakers. The sound flows though the thin carpet perfectly.

When you have the top down, it'll mostly mute them, but the bass will still pass though the seats, so you'll still have all the sound with the fronts and bass from the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hmm that is rather tempting to do after all...I may just have to do that. Then I can stick my polks in the front and the car hopefully won't sound like a tin can anymore!

I've also been debating about looking for an amp and running the rear speaker inputs to it. Then taking it and dividing it between the two in the rear door cards and speakers in the parcel shelf so I have 6 speakers.
I could then always wire in a mini sub too if the sound still is way treble heavy.
 

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If you felt clever...

Install a Monsoon amp from a Jetta 4. The Monsoon amp is designed to drive 6 speakers, and it is a high drive style amp. Any Monsoon stereo I have, can work independently of the amp and drive the speakers just fine by it self. So if you're clever with the wiring, you can make any radio turn the amp on, and drive it with say, a Deluxe head unit.

(By the way, if your Deluxe doesn't work still, I'll sell you mine if you like. I ended up going back to using the Premium head unit)

If you upgrade the speakers remember to take some pictures! I want to see how you'd go about doing it.

I am intending to find a set of modern GM 6x9 speakers and upgrading to those. Pretty high quality speakers that can be had for 2 bucks a piece at my local scrap yard. I tend to almost always change my VW's over to GM speakers, as in some higher end GM cars, they use really high quality sound stuff, which can be had really cheap and reused in many other types of cars.
 

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Remember. The Monsoon system was used in Volkswagens and General Motors cars only. I have never seen a Monsoon anywhere else. The Monsoon systems in Volskwagens are built by Delco/Delphi Electronics. The same maker of GM systems. My Mark 4 head unit is a Delphi built unit.

If you cannot find a VW spec one, the Pontiac Firebird, and Chevrolet Camero both use a very similar Monsoon amp. The Monsoon system produces a very decent quality sound and has a lot of volume to back it self up.
 

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Remember. The Monsoon system was used in Volkswagens and General Motors cars only. I have never seen a Monsoon anywhere else. The Monsoon systems in Volskwagens are built by Delco/Delphi Electronics. The same maker of GM systems. My Mark 4 head unit is a Delphi built unit.

If you cannot find a VW spec one, the Pontiac Firebird, and Chevrolet Camero both use a very similar Monsoon amp. The Monsoon system produces a very decent quality sound and has a lot of volume to back it self up.
I think some of the monsoon systems can even drive a small sub, usually located in the center of the rear parcel shelf on various cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Here are some of the things that have been done over the last few weekends.

I ordered some new bushings and strut mounts from GermanAutoParts.


Replaced the front struts with the ones off of the wrecked cabby. They were still in good shape surprisingly :thumbup:

I think this one is bad....this was the better one of the two


It rides great with new strut mounts and good shocks. Finally doesn't squeak and make strange noises all of the time. I also made sure to grind down the bushings in the strut mounts so that the bearings have a tiny amount of preload. http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/index.shtml#StrutBearing

Also added a sticker that I had ordered for the 92.



Bleeding the breaks went well until this happened


So I took one off of the 92 and now we're back in business.

This is what came out of the front. It looks a little darker in the picture than it actually was, but you all get the point.



Finally I relayed the headlights. Relayed on the left, unrelayed on the right. The difference is greater in person; cellphone does not take night pictures well.

Now they just need aligned.

Also took it to a show a few weeks ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Started a clutch job this weekend. It was rather necessary; driving up slight inclines on the highway became rather challenging..

The transmission came out rather easily. The speedometer cable was stuck so I just disconnected it from the egr counter box.

Washing and cleaning the transmission went well until it started snowing.


Yup the clutch was done.. Glad I have a good flywheel laying around at home because it's trashed.


Rear main is also done. Well actually, it wore a groove into the crank which caused a leak. However, since the new rear main seal is a little different the grove should be sitting closer to the engine than where the new seal will seal.

I dropped the pan while removing the rear main and discovered this...

Looks like some water but there was some what of a white sludge in the bottom of the pan. The car had been loosing a little coolant but from the hose coming off of the side of the head. A feeling deep down tells me its the head gasket. However, the coolant is really clean and not over pressurizing. But, the car has seen some recent 20 mile trips..
 
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