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Someone before me had, but I actually closed them off again to lower air pressure behind the grille and increase it in front. In other words, the grille opening only feeds the shrouding. Same thing with the smaller grilles below the bumper, I closed it off to decrease turbulence and pressure in the area in front of the intercooler, so the cavity fills from the air entering through the grille.

Pressure differential is what gets air moving.
Have you done any testing to measure air pressure (or air flow) behind the intercooler? Or have you measured IATs and are basing your decision on that?
 

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Have you done any testing to measure air pressure (or air flow) behind the intercooler? Or have you measured IATs and are basing your decision on that?
Nope! All armchair engineering based on random things I read around the internet and looking at the evolution of airflow management from the original Mk1 radiator baffles to modern cars with tiny grille openings. Oh, Corky Bell's Maximum Boost has a small section on airflow and proper intercooler ducting as well.
 

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Nope! All armchair engineering based on random things I read around the internet and looking at the evolution of airflow management from the original Mk1 radiator baffles to modern cars with tiny grille openings. Oh, Corky Bell's Maximum Boost has a small section on airflow and proper intercooler ducting as well.
Fair enough. I'm still curious to hear more about your experience! If you beat me to it, placing an anemometer behind the intercooler and going for a drive would be a definitive way to measure the impact of both setups.
 

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Seeing as I’m getting very close to firing. I’m looking to see what other people are doing for heat control up against the firewall.

I’ve protected some fuel system and wiring inside of some of this, and I’m happy with the results.

Design Engineering 010405 Heat Shroud 1/2" - 1-1/4" I.D. x 3ft Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267J...abc_8S9VHWFQGDQD4HC50WFY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And I’ve seen some others on here running a t4 turbo blanket. So I’m likely going to be doing the same. But still have concerns for the amount of heat right up against the firewall.

What else have you guys done?, heat wrapped the downpipe? Heat shielding on the firewall?


Ignore the dirty bay/booster. I haven’t cleaned the bay since the paint work was finished.
 

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Hi 01 -
First and foremost, I have no experience with MK1 turbo stuff. However, I do a have bit of experience with under hood heat. I apologize in advance for the back story....
Several years ago I built up/restored a 1953 Jag C Type. When it was time to refit the aluminum body I received a call from the fabricator. He had a friend who had recently retired from Boeing and wanted to start doing more car stuff in his retirement. He offered to create a mold and a carbon fiber body for the C-type. I was not interested, as when it comes to vintage stuff I want things original. The fabricator chimed in and reminded me that the entire upper section of the car was held on by 10 bolts and that there would be absolutely no alterations. Being that we already had the buck, we could always create the aluminum body in the future. So we went for it - and it is killer.(it is also crazy rare as you can probably imagine...). One of the concerns was the heat of the headers causing issues with the front bonnet, breaking down the weave. Also didn't want the pant to be wrecked either. I used a self adhesive flexible heat barrier - of the shelf stuff from Summit Racing as I recall.Its probably .25" thick and reflective. I also used it where the down pipe runs through the body (car has a side exhaust). In addition, while not exactly the same as your turbo blanket, I did wrap the header as well. I have beat the hell out of that car over the past years, and had some mixture issues that definitely caused additional risk because of overheating. I have not had even one issue with heat damage on anything. I can even put my hand on the bonnet after the car has been run hard without issue.
The distance between your turbo and firewall is very similar to what I had to work with as well.

Cant seem to find any decent pics of that part of the car. Here is the underside of the bonnet prior to it being installed. You can just barely make out the header flanges on the far left. The product was applied from the center of the left top vent, all the way around the side louver.
89487


Sorry to be so wordy....

Engine bay looks killer BTW.
 

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I found that a T3 blanket fits the Rotomaster more snugly than a T4. I'm running a turbo blanket, heat-wrapped downpipe, heat wrap on the turbo manifold, the DEI sleeve for the firewall fuel lines, and just a flat piece of heat shielding hung off the brake lines for the wiring and firewall.

Also ceramic coated all the hot-side parts.
 

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I had my manifold and turbine housing ceramic coated. My downpipes are stainless. I have not felt a lot of heat emanating from that area.

I do not seem to have a heat issue but I did take a section of aluminum pipe, cut it lengthwise, and used that piece to insulate the power steering rack.
 

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In my younger years, wrapping pipes was a sure way of 'cooking' the pipe and it would rust out. It seems like this is preferred now. I would not wrap a steel pipe but I may wrap a stainless pipe. To date, I have never wrapped a pipe.
 

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In my younger years, wrapping pipes was a sure way of 'cooking' the pipe and it would rust out. It seems like this is preferred now. I would not wrap a steel pipe but I may wrap a stainless pipe. To date, I have never wrapped a pipe.
I’m not planning on wrapping my downpipe. But for the a small cost it was included with the blanket as a backup plan if issues arise and I feel I need it.
 

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Probably water and overheating the pipe. This causes the pipe to get too brittle and fall apart.

When emission controls were evolving, in the 70/80's air injection caused a lot of exhaust manifolds for overheat and those cracked and almost looked like they were crystalizing.

In the end, the OP is not going to wrap his pipe and others will do as they wish. Wrapped right, it does look good and pushing the heat further back into the exhaust system.
 

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Who was it that was also running a vwms dizzy?

Was it thegave?

I’m having some issues where the vwms dizzy is taller than the standard and thus causing me issues with inlet pipe fitment.
 

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Is this round gasket a standard one still available? Source? Mine is white, in pieces and looks like it’s made of asbestos. Evergreen gave me all the others.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Train

Also how the hell do I get mobile pics to not post sideways?!
 

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Who was it that was also running a vwms dizzy?

Was it thegave?

I’m having some issues where the vwms dizzy is taller than the standard and thus causing me issues with inlet pipe fitment.
Yea I have the VWMS dizzy. Did not have any problems with the turbo intake pipe. What boot are you using on the airflow plate?
 
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