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Yea I have the VWMS dizzy. Did not have any problems with the turbo intake pipe. What boot are you using on the airflow plate?
Encountered some odd issues as pictured below.




Although we ended up having to move away from the vwms fuel dizzy as for whatever reason (haha) it would just flood the poor 1.6 no matter what we tried. Doesn’t help that I don’t have thermotime or colt start injector.

With that, she’s “done” and road worthy now.





For now it’s just on low boost, guessing a 6lb wg spring as I’m boosting pretty low. This is fine as it’s break in time anyway and I’m not pushing it yet.

Still have some issues to work out as well. Off throttle creates a throttle dip and stall at times. And the coolant temps are higher than I’d like (3/4) ish even with the fans. But I’m sure the sensor being on the blockoff plate will cause it to read a little hot.
 

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Nice!

Make certain you know the true engine temperature vs trusting the factory gauges. One flat rate trick I always use is when the radiator fan kicks on, the engine temperature is about the same at the temperature of that fan switch.

I would also spend some time to seal up the radiator and intercooler.

I purchased my Callaway Stage II kit used and there are some wear marks where the fuel lines cross the aluminum intake tube. Those stainless covers in the injector lines rub thru the tube real easy. Since yours looks so pristine, I would keep an eye on that.

When I got mine sorted out, I do not recall ever having a stalling issue but with the correct ignition timing and fuel mixture sorted out [a wide band sensor is the only way to go], I had mine dialed in and runs as well as any new car.

Dial in the system pressure, then the hot control pressure, then the cold. In that order. That is extremely important. I also had the warm up regulator unbolted from the engine and butchered the adjuster so I can make small cold pressure adjustments. The hot pressure is a bit harder since the entire barrel [where the two fuel lines attach to] must move up/down to adjust.

I do not have a working cold start valve. Mine starts fine but it does not get below freezing often.
 

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Hm I use the 16v metering head boot, which has a longer "tail." I guess @ToddA1 was right about the 8v boot fitting. I wonder if the difference could have been made up by clocking the boot more toward the firewall.

But yes the VWMS flows a stupid amount of fuel. I ended up removing shims from the fuel return plunger to lower the system pressure and bypassing boost enrichment on the WUR.
 

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Considered sure… But adding a bunch of crap to a system that already works well…

I mean.. I know you know cis works well, and I’m sure some microsquirt wouldn’t hurt. But for the money, I’m staying CIS and if I were to go stand-alone I’d go with something a bit better. I’m not loving some of the components being used on those “kits”
 

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CIS is what it is, but so is an 8V head, as well as a 30 year old outdated turbo. If you really want to make some power, then you might as well go with a 1.8T but then you will have to change the transmission and you know the rest of what has to happen.

To me, there is a pride factor when dialing in a CIS system and keeping to a project age related.

I cannot see why you cannot 'dial in' a VWMS distributor. It just delivers a certain amount of fuel for a certain amount of flap movement. Changing the hot control pressure can make that lean out till it will not run. I do not think you would have to play with the system pressure [shims] to lean it out that much. Of course, I've never done played with that system so I can only speculate.
 

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Encountered some odd issues as pictured below.
Maybe I’m missing something, but what I see is not the VWMS dizzy. It should be cast AL. Did you paint it black?

I must have missed your update, when you swapped rad fans. How easily does your car start without the CSV or thermotime switch? Years ago, I had a bad thermotime switch, and the car cranked, endlessly. I don’t remember the season, it failed.


Those stainless covers in the injector lines rub thru the tube real easy. Since yours looks so pristine, I would keep an eye on that.
Thise lines act as files and abrade anything they come in contact with. I cover the contact points of the lines with .25”ID clear vinyl tubing. It’s cheap and hides very well.

-Todd
 

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Maybe I’m missing something, but what I see is not the VWMS dizzy. It should be cast AL. Did you paint it black?

I must have missed your update, when you swapped rad fans. How easily does your car start without the CSV or thermotime switch? Years ago, I had a bad thermotime switch, and the car cranked, endlessly. I don’t remember the season, it failed.

-Todd
You are seeing the current state. Not running the vwms dizzy as the boot caused fitment issues and it was dumping too much fuel. For now I’m on a standard fuel head with the vwms air plate. At least until I can work things out. It was flooding the 1.6 and causing issues trying to get engine break in done, so we swapped over.



As for cold start, it’s fine… I wouldn’t say it has an easy time starting when cold, but it’s not the worst thing I the world. I’d add that stuff back, and likely will with time but the wiring was all removed by the PO.
 

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Considered sure… But adding a bunch of crap to a system that already works well…

I mean.. I know you know cis works well, and I’m sure some microsquirt wouldn’t hurt. But for the money, I’m staying CIS and if I were to go stand-alone I’d go with something a bit better. I’m not loving some of the components being used on those “kits”
What are some of the components that you don't care for in the PNP kit? I have CIS running good on the fleet except one that is unresponsive to any adjustment to the throttle body screw with a good seal. Thus, tired of chasing down when it feels like idling at 1800rpm one second and then 600rpm the next. Aside from that, it pulls fine.

Jim



Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Hey all have an 83 GTI Callaway stage 2. It's running lean and getting detonation sounds under heavy boost. Previous owner has it near 15lbs.. is there a boost adjustment somewhere? Or does anyone have the manual available? This seems like a dangerous amount of boost.


Thx
 

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Hey all have an 83 GTI Callaway stage 2. It's running lean and getting detonation sounds under heavy boost. Previous owner has it near 15lbs.. is there a boost adjustment somewhere? Or does anyone have the manual available? This seems like a dangerous amount of boost.


Thx
15 psi is high on a standard stage 2 unless there have been other things done to help with supplemental fueling. As far as a boost adjustment, you can adjust the waste gate manually if it still has the Deltagate installed. Also check to see if there is a manual boost controller as well that could be plumbed into a vacuum line.

As far as a manual, I still have a paper copy, but it doesn't tell much about running as it's more for installation instructions.

Any knowledge of what else has been done with the car?
 

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15 psi is high on a standard stage 2 unless there have been other things done to help with supplemental fueling. As far as a boost adjustment, you can adjust the waste gate manually if it still has the Deltagate installed. Also check to see if there is a manual boost controller as well that could be plumbed into a vacuum line.

As far as a manual, I still have a paper copy, but it doesn't tell much about running as it's more for installation instructions.

Any knowledge of what else has been done with the car?

Nothing outside of the Callaway kit and cam. Fuel system looks unmolested. I added a g60 gasket, studded head and baffled oil gasket. Car runs great but when the boost gets that high it pings like hell. Guessing it's a fuel supply issue? I'd like to put the boost around 8lbs. I'm also not confident in the WOT going to check that today..

One other weird thing is there's no vacuum line hooked up to the BOV. And when I hook one up it doesn't work at all. Wastegate was recently rebuilt so I'm confused. Appreciate the help!
 

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The wastegate controls the boost. You better fix it soon or you'll be fixing later along with swapping engine parts. Weaker wastegate spring, adjusted lower, make certain the boost line is connected, etc.

Callaway did not use a BOV because they were pretty much non-existent back then.

Pictures would do justice and take if from someone who liked boost when he was a kid, you better fix the high boost problem or else you'll have a bigger problem soon.
 

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Nothing outside of the Callaway kit and cam. Fuel system looks unmolested. I added a g60 gasket, studded head and baffled oil gasket. Car runs great but when the boost gets that high it pings like hell. Guessing it's a fuel supply issue? I'd like to put the boost around 8lbs. I'm also not confident in the WOT going to check that today..

One other weird thing is there's no vacuum line hooked up to the BOV. And when I hook one up it doesn't work at all. Wastegate was recently rebuilt so I'm confused. Appreciate the help!
Also, you mentioned stage 2...is this just with the intercooler, or do you have a micro fueler? Sounds like a "no" since you say the fuel system is unmolested.

I know that it's a long read, but there is a TON of info earlier in this thread on tips and tricks to get extra fuel from the CIS system to safely support 8-10 pounds of boost with an intercooler stage 2 setup.

If you can, take some pics and post up...and many of us can "spot the mods" that you may not even recognize.

Quick question too on your distributor, do you have the OEM style thinner disk for the vacuum retard, or is it a thicker style? that has an extra port on it? I ask because one of the tricks is to put the older style vacuum can on which pulls about 8-10 degrees of timing off the top under boost...a must do really for any higher boost setups at a minimum. You should also check your fuel pressures, both at the WUR and metering head. Another "trick" is to shim the spring in the plunger with a stainless steel washer, this will give you about 10 pounds of extra fuel pressure (aka more fuel) at the injectors with the same amount of metering head air plate lift.
 

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Also, you mentioned stage 2...is this just with the intercooler, or do you have a micro fueler? Sounds like a "no" since you say the fuel system is unmolested.

I know that it's a long read, but there is a TON of info earlier in this thread on tips and tricks to get extra fuel from the CIS system to safely support 8-10 pounds of boost with an intercooler stage 2 setup.

If you can, take some pics and post up...and many of us can "spot the mods" that you may not even recognize.

Quick question too on your distributor, do you have the OEM style thinner disk for the vacuum retard, or is it a thicker style? that has an extra port on it? I ask because one of the tricks is to put the older style vacuum can on which pulls about 8-10 degrees of timing off the top under boost...a must do really for any higher boost setups at a minimum. You should also check your fuel pressures, both at the WUR and metering head. Another "trick" is to shim the spring in the plunger with a stainless steel washer, this will give you about 10 pounds of extra fuel pressure (aka more fuel) at the injectors with the same amount of metering head air plate lift.
Let me grab some pictures. I'll answer the questions I do know. It does have a micro fueler, WOT and 5th injector. Which I think is normal for a stage 2 Callaway setup. Sorry if that was confusing ha. I meant unmolested outside of Callaway stage 2 stuff. I'll grab some pics tomorrow. I have ordered a turnkey kit from Biltindustries.com to replace the cis, dizzy and microfueler with microsquirt and a wideband afr. Hoping it can keep with fuel demand.

I haven't turned the boost down yet as long as I keep it under 10lbs it doesn't spark knock. Also it's my play car so I don't drive it all that much and don't beat on it.
 

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Nice score...I was following that one and seems like you paid a very fair price for it.

I have a full printed copy of the Callaway manual and a great book on the CIS injection system that you may find useful. Another great tool will be the fuel pressure test kit for fine tuning...Unfortunately, my photo host crapped out and went black with no notice, so most of the older photos in my posts have vanished, but happy to explain any of my posts in further detail. Again, this thread is a long read, but lots of fantastic info in there!


Let me know if you want the books and I'd be happy to send them to you. You'll need to get the pressure tester on your own...
 

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The seats are a nice detail. Curious they drain the turbo back into the pan. That is a no no according to the callaway install material. They have you drill a hole in the block higher. If it works though, cool. How close is the drain hose to the exhaust? The pic make it look very close, but its hard to tell.
I digress, the stage two kits are only set to 10 psi stock. Without the mods 2.0hhh mentions at 15 psi your results are to be expected. The fuel systems are capable of 220 hp with tweeks after that you need bigger pumps, etc..and so on. At 10 psi and a good condition motor they are rated at 175 hp. So that gives you an idea of what is left. I didn't see a wide band or anything listed currently installed. How do you know its lean? Also, a quick check of your base timing would be prudent. It may be set wrong not helping your cause. If it's at stock 6' it will ping for sure. Once you go micro squirt you are in for a lot of work tuning it in. Be prepared. It's cool car for sure. Nice score.
 

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The seats are a nice detail. Curious they drain the turbo back into the pan. That is a no no according to the callaway install material. They have you drill a hole in the block higher. If it works though, cool. How close is the drain hose to the exhaust? The pic make it look very close, but its hard to tell.
I digress, the stage two kits are only set to 10 psi stock. Without the mods 2.0hhh mentions at 15 psi your results are to be expected. The fuel systems are capable of 220 hp with tweeks after that you need bigger pumps, etc..and so on. At 10 psi and a good condition motor they are rated at 175 hp. So that gives you an idea of what is left. I didn't see a wide band or anything listed currently installed. How do you know its lean? Also, a quick check of your base timing would be prudent. It may be set wrong not helping your cause. If it's at stock 6' it will ping for sure. Once you go micro squirt you are in for a lot of work tuning it in. Be prepared. It's cool car for sure. Nice score.
Woah here's a blast from the past. Where ya been, how's the truck?

@morriscode from the auction pics it looks like you do have the Deltagate, it's the round silver object with the red ring here (circled in yellow, to be confusing):
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle



What you'll want to do is back out the larger Allen hex in the center (circled in white) try to drop the boost. The smaller brass fitting is for manual boost control, should you want to turn it back up. There should also be a vacuum line that runs from the intake tract pre-TB to the side of the Deltagate unit, I can't tell from the auction pictures whether it is present. If the line is there, then check that it is not compromised ie cracked/leaking, otherwise the Deltagate will not actuate correctly. One time I forgot to reconnect this line and I pegged the boost gauge (15+ psi). It was fun for a few seconds but I had built up enough boost that when I let off, the surge was enough to snap the lockwire holding my inlet elbow on. Oops.

The receipt from Grossman Tuning references "Micro install injector" and there is something plugged into the cast intake elbow, so it would seem that you are microfueller equipped. I'm not sure how to verify that it's running though, you would probably need to find the signal line to the controller and apply boost to it to see if the injector fires. Obviously use a bottle or something to catch the fuel.

Easiest solution might be octane booster or 100 octane.
 
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