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How to paint your mkIII intake mani

How to paint your 2.0 inatake manifold
for all of you who have asked I thought I would tell you in one simple thread how to paint your 2.0 intake manifold. feel free to add your own pic's of your engine's to.
First off I used ceramic engine paint rated to 500f +plus ceramic clear coat. this is avalible at almost all parts stores in many diffrent colors.
to do this to your 2.0 firts disconect the negitive battrie cable, then you will need to disconect everything that is conected to the maniflod. I did this as I went along when ever I could reach something. (make sure you know were it gose when you put it back together)
some things conected to the upper intake maniflod are a little bit easyer to take off after you take off the top maniflod (like the EGR)
once you have the top off decide if you want to do the bottom.
the lower intake maniflod is not that hard to take off once you get the injectors out.
to take the injectors out just carefully pull them out. (I pulled them out along with the fuel rail but that might not be the best way) I would sugest looking at a repair manual if you wonder how somehting comes off. also plug up the holes in the intake side of the head that are now exposed so that stuff dosent get down there.
Ok so now the upper intake manifold is off, and mabey the lower to if you decided to do that also.
use some degreser to clean them real good, and scrub them with something like a scrub brush.
make sure to get as much junk off as posible.
then rinse them off and let dry.
EDIT: make sure to mask off all of the runners so you dont get paint inside
once it is dry you ar ready to paint. (please read the instructions on the paint can first)
I first painted the parts of the maniflod that you dont see, so that I would know what to expect.
I used one light even coat then let that dry for 10 min. and then did one even full coat. (my paint called for 3hrs of drying time but it was cold so it took longer)
after you have all sides evenly painted with the color of your choice use the same method with the ceramic engine clearcoat, this will make it nice and shinny and easy to clean.
once everything is dry (like realy, realy dry)
you are ready to assemble your new painted intake manifold.
the paint will still chip untill it gets hot. once everything is on then touch up the spots were you might have chipped it and were the upper and lower manfold meet. (use a small brush for this)
then make sure everything is conected and tightend down and reconect the battrie cabel. let it idle for a few minets so the ECU resets it self (just to be safe)
once the engine is hot you can apply another coat to the touchups if you like (with brush)(and only small areas). after fully painting it to avoid chiping while instaling you could blast it with a heat gun after the 3 hrs are up. I have had this on my car for almost 6 months now and no chiping, or flaking.
Be prepared for a lot of drying time.
I started on a friday night (dissasembled everything and painted first coat)
let it sit over night then do the second coat and the clear. let it sit for 3 hours and put it on just in time for the GTG
Just make sure to give your self the time to do this.
*I take no responsibility for you messing anything up on your car*
I just had to add that in there..
here are some pictures.
========
my maniflod half way apart

the final product

and a cool pic from the GTG

Keep in mind that due to the paint drying time this mod can easly take all day, it took me from painting it one night to assembling it in the morning, while you are waiting for the paint to dry why not take this opertunity to clean your TB, and intake while it is apart, also this is the perfict opernitunity to clean the hell out of your engine bay so it looks all spifity

another posible benifit is that the paint is ceramic, there for disapating and reflectig heat coming up from the block on to the underside of the manifold. I noticed that after a drive and poping the hood that the Mani was cooler than before. I wouldn't recpomend a dark color if your are woried about heat though, but I would also not recomend you do this if heat reflection is your only reason because you can get it profeshonialy ceramic coated for better heat reflection.
 

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Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)

DTC Codes
Did you pull a code or codes and now need help finding out what it is and don't have a Bently(which you should) go HERE and scroll down.
 

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Techtonics Tuning SS cat-back w/Borla on a '97 2.0 sound clip.

For those who wanted to know what a TT/Borla sounds like on their 2.0, go to this link:
click me
System can be purchased from a number of sources for anywhere between $400-$450(shipping price included)
 

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Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)

Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
This simple mod replaces your OEM oil plug with one that has a magnetic tip. The magnetic tip will pull ferrous material out of your oil before it gets circulated back into your engine.
Size and thread pitch of plug needed: M14x1.5
Can be found at a local auto parts store for ~$3 or from tuners such as http://www.autotech.com.
 

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Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (zuren1cs)

Spark Plugs!!
since everyone is always asking here it is...
Tools Needed:
-5/8" Spark Plug Socket
-Universal Joint
-6" Exstension
-OEM Plug Wire Puller(avail. from pottermans http://www.parts4vws.com) OR
-Needle-nose plier(if you use these you must be very careful not to tear the boot or you will get misfires)
-Bottle of compressed air
1)Remove plug wires, noting which goes where using Plug Wire Puller or Pliers. Once again, be very careful not to tear the boot or you will get misfires.
2)Spray area around plugs with compressed air to clear of dirt and grit
3)Create tool as follows SparkPlugSocket-UniversalJoint-Extension
4)Remove plugs and replace with new ones, making sure the new ones are properly gapped
5)Re-install Plug Wires in correct order
6)place key in ignition
7)turn car on
8)drive off! much easier and no need to take off the intake manifold like some people say
 

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Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (DJ MiCRoByTe)

Anyway, been having to post this quite a bit lately, so might as well make my life easier by putting the how-to in the "offical" post. This is a cheep how-to to fix cracked ignition coils on our car. More specifically, this is the vr6 fix, so it's not exact. But, it adapts over well to our applications.
Part II - Diagnosis
1) If you have noticed that on cool, damp days or after driving in
the rain (especially on the highway, especially behind cars/trucks) the
engine is running rough and misfiring, chances are the coil pack has a
crack(s).
2) When this happens, the "check engine light" WILL come on
immediately, because the emissions just went to hell.
3) If possible, pull over and pop the hood ASAP. If it is a
cracked coil pack you will notice (at least I did each time there was a
problem):
a) a fairly loud "snapping" or "clicking" sound immediately
followed by a rough spot in the idle.
b) visible sparks running along the coil pack, generally
from the wire terminal (where the spark plug wires attach) towards the metal
part of the coil pack. Each spark is tracing a water filled crack and
grounding the spark to the engine block rather than travelling along the
spark plug wire. Try to remember or draw the location of the sparks.
4) If you cannot pull over, or if you want to check later after the
weather gets a bit nicer you can easily simulate rain. Get a plant spray
bottle/mister and fill with clean water. Start up the engine and give the
coil pack area a good misting with the bottle. It may take a few sprays to
get the pack nice and wet. This should start the light show again. Try to
remember where the crack(s) is or make a sketch.
5) You now know you have the dreaded cracked coil pack. But have
no fear, there are options...
Part III - Repair Options
1) Take car to dealer, tell them the coil pack is bad. They will
respond "that's nice but we will have to confirm" ($56.49). They will then
call back several hours later saying "you have a bad coil pack" (duh) and
that for just $350 in parts and $100 in labor we can put on a new one. So
pony up $500.
2) Lucky for you, there are engineers out here who just can't stand
it when a biased party tells me that an inferior part needs to be replaced
with the same inferior part. So like all good men, especially engineers, I
start to tinker. Leading to a "fix" that has worked for 11,000 miles so far
- The $3.49 Epoxy Solution.
Part IV - The $3.49 Epoxy Solution
1) Drive a different car to Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. and get a
package of high strength, high temperature epoxy. I *think* the brand I
used was "Poxy-Weld"? It is the classic twin tube syringe, silver in color
with a cardboard packaging display that unfolded to give product
information. It is made to repair metal, plastic, etc. with higher
operating temperatures. It has Kevlar flakes to add
strength. I think the one I used was rated to 250 or 350 degrees. It was
like $3.49 for the tube.
2) In order to make the repair you will need:
torx wrenches or driver
allen (hex) wrenches or driver
damp rag
hair dryer
epoxy
12 hours (1 hour working, 11 hours waiting)
3) Coil pack removal. This is very easy. First remove the plastic
manifold covers. This requires torx head wrenches/driver. IMPORTANT.
Before trying to loosen the screws, bang the top of the wrench/driver with a
hammer while the wrench/driver is on the screw. Aluminum tends to "corrode"
quickly (look at the manifold) and slightly bond to itself. By hitting with
a hammer, the bond is broken and the screws can be easily removed. I know
this from experience (ie partially stripped screw heads). If you strip the
screw heads, I used a slightly larger allen wrench and literally hammered it
into the torx grooves. Of course you then need new screws ($12). Once the
four screws are out, plastic covers come off easily. You can now see the
whole coil pack.
4) Unplug the wire harness attached to the top of the coil pack and
move out of the way. If I remember right it has pinch clips on the side to
unlock the harness. Unplug the spark plug wires. Make a diagram of which
plug number goes where.
5) The coil pack is held to the engine block by four, long allen
(hex) screws. I found a hex driver with an articulated joint made the
removal easier. A socket wrench should also work. Unscrew and remove the
pack. It is a bit heavier than you might think so be careful when removing
the last two screws.
6) Take coil pack inside. Ignore the "you are not a mechanic"
insults coming from the living room (be the ball Danny). Take off plastic
cover on the top of the pack (just pop over the small clips). Wash off the
coil pack with a damp cloth. If it is really dirty, a bit of Dawn can work
wonders. Just make sure to wipe off the soap well. You will now want to
dry the pack WELL with the hair dryer. I was probably a bit anal about it
but I sat in front of the TV for like 20 minutes just drying the pack.
Since there is no real way to tell if all the water is out of the cracks, I
was conservative.
7) You are now ready for the epoxy. Mix a healthy amount is a
small disposable container. I used a popsicle stick to mix and spread.
Start applying a liberal coat of epoxy. The first time I did it, I only
covered the places I had seen sparks. Of course about two weeks after the
first fix, a new crack or one I had not seen developed so I did it again.
This time I covered the entire plastic portion of the coil pack.
Concentrate on the area between each terminal and the edge of the pack. No
problem since. So either coat the cracked areas or just do the whole thing.
I would recommend the whole thing. The epoxy tends to get a bit sticky so
it may work best doing two batchings.
8) Set coil pack in a warm place to dry overnight. I did this in
December so by a radiator worked well. Just don't put outside since it
makes the curing take a lot longer.
9) Reinstall the next morning. I actually did this before work one
day and it took all of about 10 minutes. Put plastic cover back on pack.
Install pack with four hex bolts and reattach the wire harness. Plug in
spark plug wires in SAME LOCATIONS. Install plastic manifold covers (I put
some grease on the aluminum screws before installing to prevent locking).
10) Start car and she should be running like new. It will take at
least 3 warm-up/cool-down cycles to reset the "check engine light"

I hope this helps those interested. It has worked like a dream for me. And
at 3.49 vs. 500.00 it is a no brainer to at least try it. Worst case you
know how to install the pack and can just order the part from a mail order
place (Adirondack, potter, etc.) saving the dealer rape.
I would actually recommend doing this as preventative maintenance. It's
cheap, easy and can same some significant bucks. If I ever HAVE to get a
new pack I will do it before installing, just to reinforce it against
cracks. Feel free to write back with any questions.
 

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Re: The "Official" DIY/FAQ 2.0L Post (Verruckt)

Installation of Oil Pressure Gauge
This installation was done on an OBDI 2.0L motor (ABA) but it can certainly be applied to other motors;)
Oil pressure gauges have to be attached to a sources of high pressure oil and this is easily done by mounting the sender (electrical) or hose fittings (mechanical) to the oil cooler that sits above the oil filter.
On top of the oil cooler you will find an oil pressure sensor as well as two 5mm Allen-head bolts.

By removing one of these bolts you now have a mounting hole for your sender (electric) or hose fittings (mechanical). The threads on these bolts are M10x1.
M=metric
10=10mm
1=1 thread per millimeter (10 threads per centimeter)
Some oil pressure gauges will be 1/8" NPT threads (National Pipe Thread) while some will be metric such as VDO gauges. AutoMeter gauges have NPT threads. These have 27 threads per inch which is very close to the 10 threads per cm on the M10x1 bolts that are removed from the oil cooler. 1 thread per mm is equivalent to 25.4 threads per inch. So a 1/8" 27 NPT thread sender will in fact fit into the M10x1 hole in your oil cooler but if you want to do it right get an adapter. I like to believe that VW guys/gals are not butchers. Summit has one for $11 and that is what I used on my Jetta.
Adapter from Summit Racing

Once you have the adapter to adapt the 1/8" NPT sender or hose fittings to M10x1 go ahead and put them together with a little teflon tape for a good seal. I used one that is designed for use with oils and I picked it up at Home Depot.
The adapter should come with a copper washer (gasket) which will give a great seal onto the oil cooler without the need for teflon tape.
With the adapter attached to the sender or hose fitting, screw the entire assembly on to the oil cooler.
If you have an electrical gauge you will have to run a signal wire from the cabin to the sender and if you have a mechanical gauge you will have to run the hose from the fittings on the oil cooler into the cabin to the gauge itself. I had a mechanical gauge once but after giving some good hard thought to the 100PSI line of oil in the cabin I changed it to an electrical gauge.
For the mechanical gauge all that is left to be done is to mount the gauge in the cabin and attach the hose to the back of the gauge with the brass fittings and some teflon tape. You may also want to connect the gauge light to your headlight circuit.
For the electrical gauge you will have to attach the sender wire to the back of the gauge but you will also have to run one of the wires to a switched +12V supply for power to the gauge. Feel free to run the gauge light to your headlight circuit at this time as well.
You should now have a working oil pressure gauge, either mechanical or electrical.
Here are some pics of my setup:
AutoMeter Electrical Gauge

Sender and adapter

Different angle showing stock sensor

Good luck and feel free to IM me if you have any questions



Modified by bajan01 at 10:45 AM 4-17-2005
 

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Cheap source for Hood Lifts.

Find an old 240SX in a junk yard. Pirate the lifts off of the back hatch. They will fit, almost perfectly. All you have to do is remove one of the small bolts on each side where the quater panel meets the engine bay. Drill these holes out with a 5/8ths drill or equivelent metric drill bit. You will have to bend the other part to conform to the part where you attach to the hood. It will be the bolt farther from the windshield. Sorry I dont have a digi camera, or else i would take pictures. This cost me $5, and 15 minutes time.
 
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