Joined
·
9,008 Posts
his edit was there when I read it. which you can see in my quote of him lol
The Official Mk.VI Jetta "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread
7801 - 7820 of 7868 Posts
Joined
·
9,008 Posts
I just got this in the mail and havent set it up yet, which one did you order? The one I did said it fit the MKVI Jetta line, pre and post facelift. Are you not finding the holes? Their install instructions arent great because they are for the MKIV and an Audi.
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hey so I have a 2016 Jetta 1.4 tsi and stock it’s at 150hp and 184lbft. However, mine is tuned to 211hp and 256lbft and I’m wondering if that has an effect on the timing belt. The manual says replace at 150k... With my car being boosted in power will that wear faster? (Car is somewhere in the 66k mile range; no problems)
No it wont have an effect on the timing belt. Replace per manual interval.
Joined
·
151 Posts
I didnt order yet, but i was able to find the holes, and front plastic cover over the front hole-they look the same as the Golf/GTI AND the same as the Audi A3. ECS just said that the Schwaben set of 4 pinch weld protectors are the ones that fit Jetta. Interested to see if they work in your Jetta.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
9,008 Posts
I ordered these that say they fit the mkvi in the list.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/jack-pad-adapter-kit/ecs10724kt/
I already had a jack pad adapter and Jack stand adapters for the pinch seams I got on Amazon. Just wanted a way to jack the car up and get a stand on the seam.
Joined
·
9,008 Posts
Just followed this, it's a mark v golf which matches up with our under carriage and I found all the spots easy. Have some kind of grease on hand to get the rubber bits in easier.
https://youtu.be/MMS2fUDiWhU
2013 with Air and Foam in Clutch Line
Can someone please help...
I had my clutch pedal go to the floor and after researching found that I should replace the slave cylinder. I did. After replacing I spent much time trying to bleed the line. Somehow I missed the reservoir going empty and got air into the system. I tried for a long time and two quart bottles later still have not gotten the air out. I bought an ABN manual bleeder kit and tried again. Same result after going through a bottle. I figured since the brake share the same reservoir maybe I got air there too. Bled all four no air at all. Tried bleeding the clutch again and same thing. Still getting foam out of the line. I am assuming that the foam is coming from the tranny. Since I pressured the system up I have proved I have no leaks, as I do not see fluid coming from anywhere and the pressure holds steady. I have read a few forums and saw this posted by A5INKY:
"Connect a hose from the driver front brake caliper to the slave cylinder bleed port, open both and simply pump the brakes slowly. The air will be pushed right into the brake/clutch fluid reservoir closed-loop style. Top up the reservoir as needed, but you will only loose equivalent to the volume of air coming out of the clutch system. Finish bleeding with the standard vacuum pump technique and good to go."
Will this work? What is finish with the standard vacuum pump technique?
Can someone please help...
I had my clutch pedal go to the floor and after researching found that I should replace the slave cylinder. I did. After replacing I spent much time trying to bleed the line. Somehow I missed the reservoir going empty and got air into the system. I tried for a long time and two quart bottles later still have not gotten the air out. I bought an ABN manual bleeder kit and tried again. Same result after going through a bottle. I figured since the brake share the same reservoir maybe I got air there too. Bled all four no air at all. Tried bleeding the clutch again and same thing. Still getting foam out of the line. I am assuming that the foam is coming from the tranny. Since I pressured the system up I have proved I have no leaks, as I do not see fluid coming from anywhere and the pressure holds steady. I have read a few forums and saw this posted by A5INKY:
"Connect a hose from the driver front brake caliper to the slave cylinder bleed port, open both and simply pump the brakes slowly. The air will be pushed right into the brake/clutch fluid reservoir closed-loop style. Top up the reservoir as needed, but you will only loose equivalent to the volume of air coming out of the clutch system. Finish bleeding with the standard vacuum pump technique and good to go."
Will this work? What is finish with the standard vacuum pump technique?
Joined
·
16 Posts
2017 GLI MT, 20k, clutch slipping badly. Opinions on the best and cheapest clutch kit out there right now? I say this because this a temporary solution ONLY. APR S2 later in the yr but for now, need a good cheap clutch. I do drive my car to it's potential but I do Not rag my car! Anyones help is much appreciated!
Joined
·
70 Posts
Good and cheap rarely go hand in hand. The cheapest you'll find a new clutch kit is around $800 and that's usually without a new flywheel in the kit. So you'll have to see if you can have your current flywheel resurfaced or source one elsewhere.
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Joined
·
2,463 Posts
If you're only keeping it for the year, then just throw a new clutch disk in and leave everything else. It's not the best approach, but it should work.
Back in my younger days, I used to throw clutch disks in and just take a sander to the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. This would likely not last long or perform well, but it's the cheapest option.
Back in my younger days, I used to throw clutch disks in and just take a sander to the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. This would likely not last long or perform well, but it's the cheapest option.
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
Just get the stage 2 clutch now. Don't waste time and money replacing the stock one.
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
The clutch uses the same reservoir as the brake fluid, but there is a divider in the reservoir so that should the clutch blow all its fluid, you will still have brakes.
Sounds like you need to just keep bleeding your clutch. That or you have a pinhole in a clutch line.
Also once you have solid fluid and no air in the bleeder, close the bleeder and pump the clutch some, then crack the bleeder and bleed it a little more (be sure to keep the reservoir topped off)
Price on valve cover seal replacement?
Did a engine bay wash a few days ago and noticed oil seeping from the valve cover, I cleaned it off. I saw today the oil is seeping back and looks fresh.
After spending over 2 grand last month on basic suspension preventative maintenance. This is the last thing I wanted. Just wanted know a price range in what to expect on the valve cover seal replacement. Thanks.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Did a engine bay wash a few days ago and noticed oil seeping from the valve cover, I cleaned it off. I saw today the oil is seeping back and looks fresh.
After spending over 2 grand last month on basic suspension preventative maintenance. This is the last thing I wanted. Just wanted know a price range in what to expect on the valve cover seal replacement. Thanks.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
19 Posts
Ive got an auto 2016 SE (1.4tsi, post facelift) that ive been trying to find a diverter valve for. From what ive seen theres a wastegate and boost controller on there, so is it possible to add a diverter valve into the mix as well? If not, is there an aftermarket/upgraded controller that isnt a universal one? I thought i saw something about that on an aftermarket site but i cant find it now. Ive got the Uni 1+ tune on it right now and im looking to prevent any potential future issues with it making more boost than it did stock, while also trying to lessen the build up time when letting it shift at lower rpms (potentially from the turbo still pushing air through the system while the transmission shifts gears and my throttle plate is mostly closed?). I generally dont push it above 2.5k but the 1+ seems to like about 3k+ rpms and is kinda lacking in acceleration below that. I love pushing it to 3k+, but i blew through 1/4th of a tank in 2 days while only pushing it to 3-4k rpms for quick passes on someone and then going back to cruising below 2k. Thats a lot more gas "wasted" than without the tune. Just driving about 10 miles a day and trying to go light on the throttle has me getting 16ish mpg, which is really bad. I was getting that for a few days on a stock tune due to heat soak on the intake when i tried to DIY a CAI with the filter a friend gave me and a few different pipes from a parts store. I feel like a proper CAI and downpipe and/or full exhaust would improve my mpgs a bit, but i dont plan on doing any of that too soon. Im about to get a manual 98 vr6 jetta and im going to be putting a decent bit of time and money into that for a while.
I found a good overview of the engine and it looks like a DV could potentially be put between the MAP/MAF (pretty sure its a MAP but 100% sure) and the throttle body and just circulate the air through the post-turbo intake pipe. Ive seen some that recirculate the air after the intercooler though, does that make much of a difference? Id imagine mixing colder air with ambient air would cause heat transfer from the ambient air and end up with something in between the cold temp and ambient air temp.
I found a good overview of the engine and it looks like a DV could potentially be put between the MAP/MAF (pretty sure its a MAP but 100% sure) and the throttle body and just circulate the air through the post-turbo intake pipe. Ive seen some that recirculate the air after the intercooler though, does that make much of a difference? Id imagine mixing colder air with ambient air would cause heat transfer from the ambient air and end up with something in between the cold temp and ambient air temp.
Joined
·
2,463 Posts
Ok, that was a lot to take in.
-Your car does not have a diverter valve and does not have a need for one. You technically could add one, but it could mess with the tune and drivability of the car and likely loose acceleration. There is zero to gain from it, so do not do it.
-After getting a tune, your mileage will likely go down for multiple reasons. First being that you will drive it harder than before and this causes worst economy. Second, when you tune the car, the calibration of the MPG readout on the cluster is no longer accurate. This can be corrected with vcds.
My advice is to actually log your mpgs the old fashioned way my filling up and resetting the trip meter and calculating your exact fuel economy.
When I tuned my GLI I went from over 30mpg down to 19mpg for quite some time until I made some revisions to the tune.
-I would recommend removing the cold air intake. A 1.4t with a stock turbo is not capable of out flowing the stock airbox. It is designed quite well to keep the heat out and flow more than enough air.
If you want it to boost earlier in the rpms, a downpipe will allow the turbo to spool quicker and will make a little more power all the way through the power band.
Hey guys, im pretty new to the vw scene but im looking to see if the subframes out of an 2008-2010 audi a4 or something would fit in a 2009 jetta for engine and trans swap. Its a pretty weird idea, i know, but just simply curious. Thanks in advance..cheers!
Isn't the Audi A4 longitudinal engine rather than transverse like the Golf/Jetta? So, it won't fit. And FYI, a 2009 Jetta is a Mk V, not Mk VI.
Joined
·
19 Posts
Sorry, i threw a lot in there. Ive never counted my miles and done the math that way so i didnt think of that, and ive actually been driving a lot more conservative than i did before the tune. I think the issue there was that the engine actually has more of an NA curve to it now instead of just jumping around 500 rpms at a time in order to get more exhaust gasses going to quickly spool the turbo like it did on the stock tune. Ive been wanting to get vagcom/vcds for a bit so ill have to look into that and also plan on getting a downpipe soon. Thanks!
7801 - 7820 of 7868 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!