I just got this in the mail and havent set it up yet, which one did you order? The one I did said it fit the MKVI Jetta line, pre and post facelift. Are you not finding the holes? Their install instructions arent great because they are for the MKIV and an Audi.how come the ecs **edit: jack pad** adapter kit works on GTI, but not jettas? we have the same plugs underneath, no? my front covers look exactly the same as the GTIs in the pictures. ECS chat was no help.
No it wont have an effect on the timing belt. Replace per manual interval.Hey so I have a 2016 Jetta 1.4 tsi and stock it’s at 150hp and 184lbft. However, mine is tuned to 211hp and 256lbft and I’m wondering if that has an effect on the timing belt. The manual says replace at 150k... With my car being boosted in power will that wear faster? (Car is somewhere in the 66k mile range; no problems)
I didnt order yet, but i was able to find the holes, and front plastic cover over the front hole-they look the same as the Golf/GTI AND the same as the Audi A3. ECS just said that the Schwaben set of 4 pinch weld protectors are the ones that fit Jetta. Interested to see if they work in your Jetta.I just got this in the mail and havent set it up yet, which one did you order? The one I did said it fit the MKVI Jetta line, pre and post facelift. Are you not finding the holes? Their install instructions arent great because they are for the MKIV and an Audi.
I ordered these that say they fit the mkvi in the list.I didnt order yet. They just said that the Schwaben set of 4 pinch weld protectors are the ones that fit jetta. Interested to see if they work in your jetta.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Just followed this, it's a mark v golf which matches up with our under carriage and I found all the spots easy. Have some kind of grease on hand to get the rubber bits in easier.I didnt order yet, but i was able to find the holes, and front plastic cover over the front hole-they look the same as the Golf/GTI AND the same as the Audi A3. ECS just said that the Schwaben set of 4 pinch weld protectors are the ones that fit Jetta. Interested to see if they work in your Jetta.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Good and cheap rarely go hand in hand. The cheapest you'll find a new clutch kit is around $800 and that's usually without a new flywheel in the kit. So you'll have to see if you can have your current flywheel resurfaced or source one elsewhere.2017 GLI MT, 20k, clutch slipping badly. Opinions on the best and cheapest clutch kit out there right now? I say this because this a temporary solution ONLY. APR S2 later in the yr but for now, need a good cheap clutch. I do drive my car to it's potential but I do Not rag my car! Anyones help is much appreciated!
Just get the stage 2 clutch now. Don't waste time and money replacing the stock one.2017 GLI MT, 20k, clutch slipping badly. Opinions on the best and cheapest clutch kit out there right now? I say this because this a temporary solution ONLY. APR S2 later in the yr but for now, need a good cheap clutch. I do drive my car to it's potential but I do Not rag my car! Anyones help is much appreciated!
The clutch uses the same reservoir as the brake fluid, but there is a divider in the reservoir so that should the clutch blow all its fluid, you will still have brakes.Can someone please help...
I had my clutch pedal go to the floor and after researching found that I should replace the slave cylinder. I did. After replacing I spent much time trying to bleed the line. Somehow I missed the reservoir going empty and got air into the system. I tried for a long time and two quart bottles later still have not gotten the air out. I bought an ABN manual bleeder kit and tried again. Same result after going through a bottle. I figured since the brake share the same reservoir maybe I got air there too. Bled all four no air at all. Tried bleeding the clutch again and same thing. Still getting foam out of the line. I am assuming that the foam is coming from the tranny. Since I pressured the system up I have proved I have no leaks, as I do not see fluid coming from anywhere and the pressure holds steady. I have read a few forums and saw this posted by A5INKY:
"Connect a hose from the driver front brake caliper to the slave cylinder bleed port, open both and simply pump the brakes slowly. The air will be pushed right into the brake/clutch fluid reservoir closed-loop style. Top up the reservoir as needed, but you will only loose equivalent to the volume of air coming out of the clutch system. Finish bleeding with the standard vacuum pump technique and good to go."
Will this work? What is finish with the standard vacuum pump technique?
Ok, that was a lot to take in.Ive got an auto 2016 SE (1.4tsi, post facelift) that ive been trying to find a diverter valve for. From what ive seen theres a wastegate and boost controller on there, so is it possible to add a diverter valve into the mix as well? If not, is there an aftermarket/upgraded controller that isnt a universal one? I thought i saw something about that on an aftermarket site but i cant find it now. Ive got the Uni 1+ tune on it right now and im looking to prevent any potential future issues with it making more boost than it did stock, while also trying to lessen the build up time when letting it shift at lower rpms (potentially from the turbo still pushing air through the system while the transmission shifts gears and my throttle plate is mostly closed?). I generally dont push it above 2.5k but the 1+ seems to like about 3k+ rpms and is kinda lacking in acceleration below that. I love pushing it to 3k+, but i blew through 1/4th of a tank in 2 days while only pushing it to 3-4k rpms for quick passes on someone and then going back to cruising below 2k. Thats a lot more gas "wasted" than without the tune. Just driving about 10 miles a day and trying to go light on the throttle has me getting 16ish mpg, which is really bad. I was getting that for a few days on a stock tune due to heat soak on the intake when i tried to DIY a CAI with the filter a friend gave me and a few different pipes from a parts store. I feel like a proper CAI and downpipe and/or full exhaust would improve my mpgs a bit, but i dont plan on doing any of that too soon. Im about to get a manual 98 vr6 jetta and im going to be putting a decent bit of time and money into that for a while.
I found a good overview of the engine and it looks like a DV could potentially be put between the MAP/MAF (pretty sure its a MAP but 100% sure) and the throttle body and just circulate the air through the post-turbo intake pipe. Ive seen some that recirculate the air after the intercooler though, does that make much of a difference? Id imagine mixing colder air with ambient air would cause heat transfer from the ambient air and end up with something in between the cold temp and ambient air temp.
Isn't the Audi A4 longitudinal engine rather than transverse like the Golf/Jetta? So, it won't fit. And FYI, a 2009 Jetta is a Mk V, not Mk VI.Hey guys, im pretty new to the vw scene but im looking to see if the subframes out of an 2008-2010 audi a4 or something would fit in a 2009 jetta for engine and trans swap. Its a pretty weird idea, i know, but just simply curious. Thanks in advance..cheers!
Sorry, i threw a lot in there. Ive never counted my miles and done the math that way so i didnt think of that, and ive actually been driving a lot more conservative than i did before the tune. I think the issue there was that the engine actually has more of an NA curve to it now instead of just jumping around 500 rpms at a time in order to get more exhaust gasses going to quickly spool the turbo like it did on the stock tune. Ive been wanting to get vagcom/vcds for a bit so ill have to look into that and also plan on getting a downpipe soon. Thanks!Ok, that was a lot to take in.