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Taken directly from the MKVI Jetta forums, this seems to help keep down on the unneeded threads.

We've all got those questions where the answers seem so obvious, but you just can't be sure that you're actually right. So in an effort to keep these questions from creating pages full of simple question threads in the forum, just ask them in here. If you know the answer, quote the question in your response.

In addition, if you need to search this thread for something asked, you can do so at the top of this post (Red Box) or you can search the entire forum (Blue box):



-Charles
 

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the mk4 forums will dry up except for this thread because 99% of the questions are stupid:laugh:

ok sorry im done. Hopefully this helps clean things up
 

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I've got one to help start this off:

Do I need to worry about my alignment after putting on spacers?

They're hubcentric, I haven't noticed anything weird, and I can't imagine how a flat piece of metal would throw it off but since we're asking stupid questions...
 

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I think this is a great idea :thumbup: I'll try to keep an eye on this to make sure things stay on track.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've got one to help start this off:

Do I need to worry about my alignment after putting on spacers?

They're hubcentric, I haven't noticed anything weird, and I can't imagine how a flat piece of metal would throw it off but since we're asking stupid questions...
This shouldn't affect alignment of the vehicle, the only thing that should affect that are, new bushings, tie rods, ball joints, raising/lowering your vehicle.

Its basically nothing different then putting a wider wheel on. :beer:

I think this is a great idea I'll try to keep an eye on this to make sure things stay on track.
Thanks Mindy! :thumbup:

-Charles
 

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I just thought of another one...

I did the DRL/amber swap mod where I just cut the wires and spliced them back together and I'm wondering if that will have any bad effects when I do my HID retrofit?

This question probably isn't as stupid as my last one but I don't want to start a whole thread for it and searching hasn't turned up anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I just thought of another one...

I did the DRL/amber swap mod where I just cut the wires and spliced them back together and I'm wondering if that will have any bad effects when I do my HID retrofit?

This question probably isn't as stupid as my last one but I don't want to start a whole thread for it and searching hasn't turned up anything.
I haven't done this DIY, all I can think of is a popped fuse maybe if you did it wrong, but the DIY does not indicate any failures in the 8 years of replies.

EDIT: From the DIY

DRLs work by running the low beam at 11 volts, not 13.5. Voltage goes down = current goes up. So now your turn signal bulbs have to handle more current. Replacing a 5 amp fuse with a 15 could push the fuse rating above what the bulb filament can handle, unless you've got a bulb at the high end of the tolerance. Could be why it works for some people and not others.

Depending on the circuit, you may have also energized the side markers and/or rear signals with 11 volts. DRLs also operate only the front bulbs, parking lights operate front and rear. BUT, there are probably diodes in the circuit to protect against transient voltages turning on the wrong lights. Diodes fail, you would never know it unless you got a rare transient voltage. Or swapped wires to create them yourself. That would explain strange lighting issues. Harnesses change from model year to model year as options change.

There's a LOT of variables to this mod, check your wiring diagram carefully, and be ready for failed lights at any time.

-Charles
 

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I haven't done this DIY, all I can think of is a popped fuse maybe if you did it wrong, but the DIY does not indicate any failures in the 8 years of replies.

EDIT: From the DIY

DRLs work by running the low beam at 11 volts, not 13.5. Voltage goes down = current goes up. So now your turn signal bulbs have to handle more current. Replacing a 5 amp fuse with a 15 could push the fuse rating above what the bulb filament can handle, unless you've got a bulb at the high end of the tolerance. Could be why it works for some people and not others.

Depending on the circuit, you may have also energized the side markers and/or rear signals with 11 volts. DRLs also operate only the front bulbs, parking lights operate front and rear. BUT, there are probably diodes in the circuit to protect against transient voltages turning on the wrong lights. Diodes fail, you would never know it unless you got a rare transient voltage. Or swapped wires to create them yourself. That would explain strange lighting issues. Harnesses change from model year to model year as options change.

There's a LOT of variables to this mod, check your wiring diagram carefully, and be ready for failed lights at any time.

-Charles
I now understand the phrase "there are no stupid questions - just stupid people" because I only understood about half of the response. Thanks for the help, though! I guess I'll just have to plug it up and try it and I'll undo the mod if they don't work...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I now understand the phrase "there are no stupid questions - just stupid people" because I only understood about half of the response. Thanks for the help, though! I guess I'll just have to plug it up and try it and I'll undo the mod if they don't work...
The just of that entire thing, is stating you may overload the circuit over time, the bulb isn't rated for the power you are sending to it on when the blinker is now turned on. The good news it there are fail safes to prevent the failure, but it could be the cause of an electrical gremlin in the future. :beer:

-Charles
 

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Here is my stupid question.. lol..

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03 Golf TDI Shaking between 75-85km/h?


Hey guys,

I recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.

Thanks for any and all input!
 

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Here is my stupid question.. lol..

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03 Golf TDI Shaking between 75-85km/h?


Hey guys,

I recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.

Thanks for any and all input!
Sounds like a wheel is out of balance. Could also be a bent rim, but just an imbalance is more likely.
 

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Here is my stupid question.. lol..

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03 Golf TDI Shaking between 75-85km/h?


Hey guys,

I recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.

Thanks for any and all input!
Most likely the wheel out of balance, getting wheels balanced is cheap, so just get it done when you get the other wheels put on, or before you put these wheels back on. You can also visually inspect to see if one is bent
 

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Would it still be the wheel balance even though after I speed up more than 85km/h it smooths out and drives normally? Sorry.. just confused as I always thought it would keep shaking after I passed this region...
 

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Would it still be the wheel balance even though after I speed up more than 85km/h it smooths out and drives normally? Sorry.. just confused as I always thought it would keep shaking after I passed this region...
I'm going to offer another solution that actually happened to me once... Check your lug nuts. They may actually be loose.

But whatever this is - it should go away after they fit and balance your new tires. If it doesn't go away at that point then you have a real problem.
 

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Would it still be the wheel balance even though after I speed up more than 85km/h it smooths out and drives normally? Sorry.. just confused as I always thought it would keep shaking after I passed this region...
Yeah, wheel balance often only has an effect in a small range of wheel speed.

I'm going to offer another solution that actually happened to me once... Check your lug nuts. They may actually be loose.

But whatever this is - it should go away after they fit and balance your new tires. If it doesn't go away at that point then you have a real problem.
Not a bad suggestion at all.
 

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I think this is a great idea :thumbup: I'll try to keep an eye on this to make sure things stay on track.
This should be a sticky up top.
 
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