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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Not a lot of progress…. dropped off hardware to the plater and it took longer than expected. In the meantime, I painted some parts. I also ordered that funky water pump hose, from Latvia. $10 vs. $30, in the US. I ordered two… should be here in a couple weeks.

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I found the 90A alternator I originally planned on using, while looking for other parts. It’s crusty and the bearings were roaring.

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120A is way overkill; everything was fine with the stock alternator. Let’s make the crusty one purty….

Someone was inside, before me. Case was chipped, stator leads were soldered at the rectifier and the bearings were replaced. Getting this one apart was murder, because of all the corrosion... one case screw snapped.

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The metal glue gun, made short work of the broken screw.

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Spent all day prepping parts… some for Big Blue, some for the GTI, and some for the project car. This is roughly 2 minutes after the acid pickle. Amazing how quickly everything flash rusts.

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Ground down the strut bearing spacers.

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Prepped parts posing with plated parts.… drop off the parts in the morning and hope I get them back next week. The cases still need to be painted.

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Lastly, I was tired of moving the Rotbox seats around. They’re officially destined for the scrapyard.

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Heaters may be destined for, BB.… BB, was excited.

-Todd
 

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. I also ordered that funky water pump hose, from Latvia. $10 vs. $30, in the US. I ordered two…
Which one is that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The short hose that goes from the late model pump housing to the early water pipe…. 027121063C I think it’s 25mm to 15mm?

I bought one for the GTI and paid $30 + shipping. Now it’s $36 + shipping. Granted, it’s a VW hose vs. JP Group, which I bought. I’m sure it’ll be fine.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I began reassembling the 90A, but ran into an issue. I thouget this should be easy….

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First issue: one of the leads broke off the stator. No big deal… crimp the side I could, and soldered to the stub. New shrink tubing on all the leads and assemble the back half.

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Second issue: disassemble the back half because the rotor doesn’t fit. I figured the rotor had to be installed first. I then realized I was trying to fit the 120A rotor in the 90A housing. My fault on that one.

Third issue: the regulator brushes are not lining up with the wear marks on the slip rings. Everything that came out of this alt went back in. I did not touch the slip rings, since they looked decent.

  • If I push the rotor to the rear to make the brushes line up with the wear marks, the rear fan is contacting the housing to the point that it locks up.
  • If I push the rotor to the front to avoid fan to housing contact, a portion of both brushes are no longer in contact with the slip rings. I also notice the rear bearing is not fully seated in the plastic shim/cup, when I do this.

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The only thing I can think of is, when I pressed the front shaft washer onto the shaft, I supported the rotor by the slip ring… I did some light research and I didn’t see anything saying not to do this. From what I’ve read, the slip rings should bottom out. Maybe they moved?

Anyone with alt rebuilding experience? I’ve spent several hours on this and disassembled/reassembled this things a few times, and it’s getting old.

-Todd
 

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Anyone with alt rebuilding experience? I’ve spent several hours on this and disassembled/reassembled this things a few times, and it’s getting old.
I can barely follow what the issue is, but I just wanted to say that I appreciate the photos and details of your disassembly of various components that I would be afraid to take apart. Occasionally, I get inspired.

Unfortunately, you are probably now the most experienced alternator rebuilder that frequents this forum. 😉
 

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Yeah, the real mechanics are long gone. I've replaced some bearings, slip rings, brushes, and regulators in the past [I just replaced some brushes on a first time client on an Audi A4 1.8t because she was broke just before Christmas at N/C]. Obviously, there is something not right but I do believe you got the right person on the job.

I always kick myself when I don't take pictures of before the butchery starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I think those are compliments, so I’ll take them! Wasted a couple more hours, tonight. Started taking apart another 120A alt, disassembled the 90A, reassembled the 90A, measured some parts, stared at some parts, etc.. Everything checked out, as it should.

For a very brief second, I thought about leaving it alone and running it. For another brief second I thought about grinding down the mounting posts for the regulator, to lower the brushes… couldn’t bring myself to do either.

From what I’ve read, the slip rings should bottom out. Maybe they moved?
I mentioned someone was in here, prior to me. The slip rings did not look like what was on the 120A rotor, or the spare alt. Everything inside was replaced with aftermarket parts. I took a measurement from the inner race to the top of the slip rings, on the 120A and compared it to the 90A.

1.6mm less than expected…. so, the slip rings did slip!

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From the above pic, you can see I was already digging in there with screwdrivers. I was lightly levering on the outer race and Robert Bosch called me, and told me to stop. Better do this the right(?) way, before I ruin something.

A couple nuts and washers to support the outer race and some prybar action, instantly popped it.

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If I moved it another .5mm, it’d be perfect, but I decided to leave it alone, before I ruined something. Trust me, the brushes are fully landing on the slip rings.

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Reassembled.

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I didn’t install the 3 tiny, rear cover screws, but you get the idea. I need to disassemble it again, because one of the threaded case holes washed out. If I’m installing thread coils in one, I may as well do all…. I’ll probably spray the rear cover satin black, since the nameplate markings look like crap.

Takeaways… don’t do what I did.
  • Don’t use a press to press the front washer (Bosch calls it a spacer) onto the shaft. Use the pulley, washer and nut to press It on.
  • Don’t use a tie rod/pitman arm puller to remove the rear bearing. This probably didn’t cause the issue, but I can’t guarantee it.

This should have been easy. My mistakes cost me at least 4 extra hours.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I don’t like that school…

I’m a glutton for punishment. Not that it pertains to Big Blue, but I assembled the 120A, tonight. Some stuff I learned…

I assembled the front half as usual, but did not crimp the stator leads to the rectifier.… makes everything much easier to see. Bolted the halves together and the slip rings were low, again… I’m two for two!. This time, I carefully cut the base of the slip rings with a hacksaw, to form a ledge for the pry bars to grab. A few trial and errors, and the height was perfect.

This one was assembled much faster. I’d estimate 2.5 hours, including set up and clean up.… I’m working a bit slower, so I’m not scratching the refreshed parts.

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  • I realized the slip rings have an open top. Using the puller to remove the rear bearing, couldn’t have caused these issues. The puller is pushing directly off the rotor shaft.
  • On both alts, the rear bearing does not entirely seat in the plastic spacer cup.
  • Either I didn’t drop off one of the tiny rear cover screws, or the plater lost it. I think the latter, but I’m not saying a word…

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Huh….?

Go ahead and raise hell with the plater. Video tape it so we call all watch it. Let us know who your new plater is too.
Yeah, you think I won’t? I’ll throw the parts in his face while I’m telling him off, about his incompetence!

Stop being silly…, why the hostility and goading? He took pity on me and I appreciate him, haha. I’m very happy with our relationship. I’ve offered to string the parts to make their lives easier. I’m dropping off coffee and donuts, whether I’m dropping off or picking up!. I asked if he wanted me to spread the word about them, and he replied, “no”, lol.

He tells me I’m doing all the work, but I think otherwise.

All parts are in for the serpentine conversion…. Big Blue, snidely said “it’s about time…”.

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This may actually happen this weekend.….

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
We were trucking along, making good progress. Started assembling the ancillary parts… I was amazed at the condition of the water pump. It was OE, spotless inside, tight shaft, with a cast impeller. I almost feel bad stealing all the OE parts from the project car….

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I needed to paint the rear alt covers and one of the regulators. I could see rust on the regulator cap through the cover fins. No big deal.… sprayed everything and into the cook box. Installed a repair coil in the washed case hole, in between coats. Decided to only do the one, rather than all.


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Spent too much time looking for a powdercoated pump elbow, then decided to look under the GTI…. found it. That means look for another clean elbow, blast it, paint it and another cook box session.

Old parts and new to Blue parts.

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This may actually happen this weekend.….
It didn’t.… always an issue. First issue, the belt is too short. Ordered a belt for AAZ, but learned it uses a different tensioning method. Needed to research the right belt, which ended up being PK1045... order placed.

Second issue, pump to flange hose is damaged. I didn’t have a new or used spare and tried to find one from local stores.… no luck. The 1.6 hose was probably damaged from stretching it because the AAZ is taller. Found a used TDI tri-way hose, but I don’t want to run the factory heat exchanger. Let’s take it apart…

Started with a cut off wheel on a rotary tool to cut the bands, but that was taking too long. Method two, was to crush the barbs with large pliers, pick out the plastic, then slip the bands off.… way faster. Interesting Oetiker clamps with no ears.… it almost appears the barbs were treated with sealant.

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I’ll cut this AL handle down to get the length I need, and clamp it.

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Until the new belt arrives, I can tend to the hose (if it’ll work), fill the system and make a 4ga. cable and exciter jumper.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Working in that bay was a pain. Ended up pulling the rad… should have done that from the start.

Made a hybrid hose… fit way better. Lower elbow is TDI and the upper portion is the OE 1.6 hose. Modded some ChannelLock crimpers to bead the AL coupler.

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Wish I didn’t cut off that last .25” off, but oh well. Some shrink tube will make it blend in. The yellow clamps were rejects from the GTI. Don’t tell BB, that part…

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4ga. alt cable and stole the correct exciter/load monitor harness from Rotbox. Soldered ends with marine grade shrink tube to seal them. The body got 2 layers of standard shrink tube while the area with the exciter jumper got an extra 2 layers. The exciter end got the same solder/shrink treatment. A lil blue shrink to label it, at the male end...

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With the added marine shrink, the ring terminal no longer fit in the walls of the rear alt cover. A few minutes with a file opened it up. Sprayed that and the cover for the alt pulley, and into the cook box….

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Serpentine belt delivery was expected last week, but got delayed untIl tomorrow. Geez, this serpentine conversion started about 2 months ago…. worked on other things to keep moving forward.

Since the rad is out, let’s look for other things to waste time on… 5 blade fan with a much larger motor, an upgraded serpentine idler and a proper CCV breather. Time to get rid of my home brew job; the 1” heater hose was beginning to sweat oil and was gross.

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I will admit the CCV tube was overdue; I’ve had it for a few years now. I think it started with AAZ and was used up into the 1Z. My 96 B4V has one, although I never looked at the date code. I believe there are three styles of this tube, but they got worse as time went on. IMO this one is the best.

Did more stuffs, but I’ll post later…

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Everything below was completed last weekend. Tweaked my back hunched over an engine bay all weekend, so I took the week off.

Since the rad was pulled, it only made sense to start on the horns. Mimicked the bracket on the GTI.

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Since the grill is off, corrected the LED spacing and added Weather Pack connectors.

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Apparently, I previously added B4 horns and a relay. Kept the B4 horns and added wiring for the new horns, from the relay. Pulled the HL relay harness…. BB don’t want no stinkin’ HL relay harness….

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The rad got reinstalled, so imagine a bay with a rad, fan and ugly shroud.

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Today, I waanted to get BB running. All I needed to do was install the new belt, the upper and lower rad hoses and fill the system.

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That belt came from Aaron at Cascade German, previously dba Bora Parts. I knew I was getting a Contitech belt, but I wasn’t expecting OE.

Less than 5 minutes in, I felt something in my back pop, when installing the belt. I’m done for the day.... this will get done sooner or later.

-Todd
 
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