3500 is low but not crazy low; unfortuantely I'm not sure if you have a single issue responsible for this. Hard to say, but RPMs seem to build normally with the rear end up, but I'm not sure the clutch is engaging well. With it in the air like that I'm used to the track engaging more affirmative, violent even. I'm not sure how much you want to play with this, but there's a couple other things I know I would try, more or less in order but if any of these steps is easier for whatever reason it's not hard and fast.
1. Check the belt wear or try another belt. There should be a spec for the width of the belt, and then also you can visually inspect the profile. If it's too narrow, chunked, or flat, the clutch can't grip it as tight. Should be a trapezoid profile. It looks like you've switched to an aftermarket clutch so it might "want" to break-in its own belt if that makes sense.
2. Ever replace the motor mounts? You've got a lot of movement in the engine and that is both making the belt shorter and changing the angle; even if it doesn't fix your clutch issue on it's own it should increase belt life. Just checking the torque on the bolts would be a good idea. Fortunately compared to a car it's easy and cheap to replace, just don't forget to align the motor before torquing it down. That sled, how much the motor should move is designed into the sled, so I can't say it's wrong for this one, just that it's a lot relatively speaking.
3. Your track tension might be a little low, that's generally not an issue by itself unless it's so loose the track falls off, and you're correct that tighter on it's own would make it worse. That said, I'd still recommend tensioning it so you can make sure it's aligned right. Cat should have a spec (e.g., 1/2" deflection @ 12 lbs) which you can hit by either hanging weights in the center and measuring or
using a tool like this. For the alignment, you basically adjust tension left to right running periodically on a stand to keep the track running dead center. There's a couple ways to gauge this but I like checking the clearance between the hyfax and the knobs on the track, typically a couple MM and easy to check with an appropriately sized shim. If it's not the same distance left to right it's fighting friction from those knobs.
4. Put a stiffer spring in the clutch. Whatever color spring is in there, I'd just go up one color higher in rate and see how it affects the situation.
5. Clean the surfaces of the primary and secondary. I think you might have already tried this. If not, I usually just go at it with scotch bright.
6. Rebuild the clutch. This seems unlikely since it's a new clutch, but as they age you end up with build up from the sliders in there. It's kind of like brake dust and can jam things up. That's 100% an "inside on the bench" job; lots of little parts and springs to lose.
Good luck!!