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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I figure I'll use this to catalog the adventures of this project.

I bought a 2009 CC a few weeks back from a "shop" up in the twin cities area. It was listed with a bad engine. He stated that it came with a good engine. Alright, I went to investigate.

What I found when I arrived was a decent looking car that really just needed a detail and some love. 2.0t CCTA engine and 6 speed manual trans. It was at this point that I found out that the good motor had blown timing
:what: He claimed that the head from the engine on the car was fine. It was at this time that I probably should have walked away.

We loaded up the extra engine and the car.







Well I didn't touch anything for a couple days after I got home. When I got some time I tore apart the extra engine to check the damages. What I found was not exciting at all. I'm still not totally sure what happened, but It appears that someone ran some spare change through the engine.




At this point I should have called a salvage yard and just bought another engine with a warranty.

But then you guys wouldn't be reading this awesome story...

I finished tearing down the engine and loaded it up to take to my machinist to see if it was salvageable. So I decided to tear the other motor out of the car to make sure I had a good cylinder head. The engine came out of the car relatively easy. I was able to pull the engine and fully dissemble it in one night.




Again, what I found wasn't something I was really hoping for.








So far I have 2 bad heads, 1 destroyed block and 1 questionable block...... Should have just bought a good motor..... :banghead:

Fast forward to last friday...

My machinist calls me to let me know my block is done and ready to pickup. Also that my crank is in good shape. Good news :beer: More good new came when I called the dealer and was able to get a decent price on a rebuilt head. I got started ordering pistons, bearings, bolts, seals, full chains, balance shafts, oil pump, and anything else I could think of to get this back together.

Today the dealer called to let me know that my head was in. My pistons, bearings and oil pump showed up at work. As well as my third ECS order.

Hopefully soon I can start putting this back together. Still trying to find good cams.

:beer::beer: Cheers if you've made it this far. Ill try to keep you updated with the project as it progresses.
 

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Thanks for sharing and helpfully things work out in the end :beer:

Good reminder for rest of us to take care of the chain tensioner before the engine is completely destroyed.

Whatever engine you get I would advise to make sure its running latest revision of the chain tensioner.

Also, since the engine is out replace the rear main seal. This part is inexpensive but very labor intensive to replace once the engine and the transmission is back in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9VOI9myJiw

I believe there is also an aftermarket solution as well:
http://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution
 

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Wow! :eek:

So are you mad that you got burned on the engine(s)?
Did you confront the "shop" that sold you this car, or did you get such a killer deal on it that it doesn't even matter & you'll fix it all?
 

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I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I've never torn an engine down and rebuilt it. I think I may need to pick up a project car with a blown motor just so I can add that to my life skills list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for sharing and helpfully things work out in the end :beer:

Good reminder for rest of us to take care of the chain tensioner before the engine is completely destroyed.

Whatever engine you get I would advise to make sure its running latest revision of the chain tensioner.

Also, since the engine is out replace the rear main seal. This part is inexpensive but very labor intensive to replace once the engine and the transmission is back in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9VOI9myJiw

I believe there is also an aftermarket solution as well:
http://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution
The rear main and all the timing components will be all new when I reassemble the engine. Thanks for the links! I will be looking into the upgraded rear main.

Wow! :eek:

So are you mad that you got burned on the engine(s)?
Did you confront the "shop" that sold you this car, or did you get such a killer deal on it that it doesn't even matter & you'll fix it all?
No not mad, little disappointing that I didn't look things over closely. I don't believe the shop had any idea the extent of the damage. I got a good enough deal on the car that I will be able to fix everything and still not be upside down. It will not be as good of a deal as I had originally expected.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I've never torn an engine down and rebuilt it. I think I may need to pick up a project car with a blown motor just so I can add that to my life skills list.
It can be a rewarding experience! Make a plan and try to keep a clean work space the best you can.
 

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Just read through all of your troubles. Man that sucks.
From someone that's had to rebuild their TSI engine due to a dumb part failure (balance shaft lockup), I wish you the best of luck in your rebuild.
It sucks that VW used several failure-prone parts in the TSI engine, because when the engine is working properly it really is quite good, and an excellent base to build on.
I ended up beefing up the bottom end with Integrated Engineering rods and upgraded the head with all new Supertech high-rev components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just read through all of your troubles. Man that sucks.
From someone that's had to rebuild their TSI engine due to a dumb part failure (balance shaft lockup), I wish you the best of luck in your rebuild.
It sucks that VW used several failure-prone parts in the TSI engine, because when the engine is working properly it really is quite good, and an excellent base to build on.
I ended up beefing up the bottom end with Integrated Engineering rods and upgraded the head with all new Supertech high-rev components.
I'm trying to cover be bases and get the week points taken care of. I bought the newest revision cam bridge. I picked up the balance shaft repair kit. A new N205 valve. I got an updated chain kit. I'm looking into the upgraded rear main.

Is there any other week spots that I should address before I start reassembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·


Got my engine block and crank back from the machine shop. Fresh and ready to go.



Bearings, pistons and oil pump all came in



A look at the cylinder head from the engine that was in the car. Used as a core for VW



My work space for the disassembly.



Here is my current parts collection.
 

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I'm liking the storybook approach here what the photo diary. I've never ever been a fan of the 2.0 engine, because of all these catastrophic problems people keep having with them, and the maintenance nuances that go along with it.

That being said, because of where you are in the rebuild process.... If it were me.... I would be trying to replace as much of the mechanicals of the engine with forged parts vs cast. I don't know how much (if any) of the original engine actually used forged parts vs cast, but if I had to go through all the re-ringing, and 9 yards.... I'd be trying to look at it from a weak spot reinforcement perspective, and beefing it up to that "unbreakable" setup if I could. I realize that's not every bodies cup of tea, but this engine..... I just don't trust it.

That RMS, I would DEFINATELY go with the aftermarket replacement. My understanding, It was designed by the same guys who engineered the infamous 986 RMS / Bearing fix for the Boxster S, and having done that upgrade on my Boxster S in the past was well worth it. If you go with the OEM fix, you're setting yourself up for just another prolonged failure.
 

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I'm trying to cover be bases and get the week points taken care of. I bought the newest revision cam bridge. I picked up the balance shaft repair kit. A new N205 valve. I got an updated chain kit. I'm looking into the upgraded rear main.

Is there any other week spots that I should address before I start reassembly?
You've pretty much covered the bases. The rear main is a bit of an interesting one. I personally use a revised (not the original fault version) Mk7 rear main seal (the PTFE section is flipped) and have never had mine leak.
This is also what we've been installing in our customers cars as well.
I guarantee you that I've had the transmission off of my car more than some people will on all of their cars combined, so trust me, I've checked it a lot.
The INA version I'm a little iffy on. It's not a bad part, but from an engineering perspective, the newer PTFE seal is technically better (this is also coming from my technicians).
I'm not a huge fan of the spring tension seal since I've seen my share of failures from those, especially in track-heavy use where excessive vibration can lead to pre-mature wear of the inner part of the seal.

As to the N205, I've only seen a small amount of failures relating to it, but it doesn't hurt to update it while you're working on it.

Be careful if you purchased an OEM VW chain. There was a bad batch that could lead to the chain failing. I went with a Febi-Bilstein chain to avoid this (they are an OEM supplier so they are the same exact quality as buying direct).

I'm liking the storybook approach here what the photo diary. I've never ever been a fan of the 2.0 engine, because of all these catastrophic problems people keep having with them, and the maintenance nuances that go along with it.

That being said, because of where you are in the rebuild process.... If it were me.... I would be trying to replace as much of the mechanicals of the engine with forged parts vs cast. I don't know how much (if any) of the original engine actually used forged parts vs cast, but if I had to go through all the re-ringing, and 9 yards.... I'd be trying to look at it from a weak spot reinforcement perspective, and beefing it up to that "unbreakable" setup if I could. I realize that's not every bodies cup of tea, but this engine..... I just don't trust it.

That RMS, I would DEFINATELY go with the aftermarket replacement. My understanding, It was designed by the same guys who engineered the infamous 986 RMS / Bearing fix for the Boxster S, and having done that upgrade on my Boxster S in the past was well worth it. If you go with the OEM fix, you're setting yourself up for just another prolonged failure.
The factory pistons in the Gen 1 engine are very well designed and do not need to be replaced. Likewise, the factory rods are not a weak point until you start to go over 400 whp.
Personally I just upgraded the rods in my engine when I had it apart, but only because I will be making over 400 whp with my new turbo setup.
I wouldn't really bother with the pistons simply due to the increased cost. And there's the whole having to warm the car up completely before driving it since you'd have forged pistons installed.
It would be one thing if you were going to go to a really big turbo (over 550-600 whp) but for a daily driven car it's really not worth the extra hassle IMHO.

I know I'm going to catch some flak on the rear main seal, but you have to remember, I see this stuff every day (and some of my techs have been working on VWs/Audis for the past 30 years).
I'm just trying to pass on my shop's collective knowledge to help out others. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My screen was missing from my cam bridge, and with not knowing where the screen was I decided I wanted to replace the N205.

I purchased my chains through ECS. I will have to check the branding again but they claimed OEM parts.

I'm stilling digging into this rear main seal situation but its good to know that the MK7 had an update to the seal. Gives me another option to look into.

Thanks for feedback here guys. Its greatly appreciated! :beer::beer:
 

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Wow, that's very informative. My CC is currently sitting at the dealership waiting for further information on the engine failure, and one thing for sure is that some valves were bent colliding with the piston as well.

How much did it cost you to get those replacements?? The dealer quoted me $9k for a rebuild engine, and that's way too much, so I'm also considering rebuild my own engine..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow, that's very informative. My CC is currently sitting at the dealership waiting for further information on the engine failure, and one thing for sure is that some valves were bent colliding with the piston as well.

How much did it cost you to get those replacements?? The dealer quoted me $9k for a rebuild engine, and that's way too much, so I'm also considering rebuild my own engine..
PMed
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well it took a bit of time to get the last of the money together for the next (hopefully last) order from the dealership. Grabbed a new cam bridge, n205, intermediate shaft set, and some misc bolts and seals.



I managed to find a good deal on the rough wheels that I may or may not use... Depending how they clean up




I also sold the mk3 GTI this weekend so I should be able to get started on the reassembly now!

:beer::beer::D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232383465682

I hate to be that guy. I don't like to be cheaping out this late in the game but I just can't swing 1200$ for new cams from the dealer. If it seems to good to be true it usually is.

These seem to be the same cams as the dealer but I'm hesitant given where they are shipping from.


Does anyone have good used cams for a CCTA?
 
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