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Disable door open chime

  1. Go to 17 - Instruments
  2. Click on Code
  3. Go to long coding helper
  4. You will see a pull-down menu for bits 4-7 which allows you to change the country code for the instrument cluster. It is currently set to US. Change it to GB/UK.
  5. Exit out and click Do It.
  6. This will require you, after you finish coding, to go back into your MFI and change the units of measurements back to US units (miles and degrees F).
  7. Result: This will stop the annoying chime/alert that occurs when you open your door to get out of the car. The door still shows as open in the MFI car display.
So I have done a few internet searches and pretty sure I know the answer, but want to ask anyway. When you make this change you will always have an alternate speed in kilometers per hour where the temp used to be, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #803 ·
Whenever I need to find something, I just roll by tlud's build ;)

Thx for the awesome detail
Thanks for the appreciation! Always glad when my thread helps others.

So I have done a few internet searches and pretty sure I know the answer, but want to ask anyway. When you make this change you will always have an alternate speed in kilometers per hour where the temp used to be, correct?
To my knowledge, that is correct. I tried a few different things to change that, but didn't get anywhere. After a couple of months, I ended up switching back because it annoyed me more than the door chime. I need to put a note in that original coding post to warn others.
 

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By far one of the most comprehensive and well written build threads! Tremendous job and many thanks TLud!

Just ordered the VWR intake and was just referencing your Modshack intake bracket modification and got some questions.

Did you purchase the entire kit only to use the bolt and spacer included? I saw in the thread you referenced they mentioned a #8 sheet metal bolt (length unknown), however I'm curious to know the height measurement of this addition if I go the custom route.
 

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Thanks for the appreciation! Always glad when my thread helps others.



To my knowledge, that is correct. I tried a few different things to change that, but didn't get anywhere. After a couple of months, I ended up switching back because it annoyed me more than the door chime. I need to put a note in that original coding post to warn others.
Thanks for the confirmation. I will end up switching it back because I cannot help notice it every time I am in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #806 · (Edited)
Connecting 42DD Downpipe to APR RSC catback exhaust

I've got a 42DD down pipe (catted and res) mated to the stock CBE. I love it. Great craftsmanship, the ceramic coating helps to keep temps down, and the sound is awesome. It's a little louder at cold start-up, sounds like a beast at WOT, and has a very nice burble when decelerating in gear. Otherwise, it sounds like stock. The one downside is a very slight bit of drone cruising above 90 mph in 6th above 4k rpm. Those of you who know me, know that I'm ridiculously sensitive to that kind of thing. I tried to point it out to my wife, but she couldn't hear it.

I ordered the APR RSC catback because I figured it would cure that issue. Plus, I'd also like a full 3" exhaust and black tips. I did not go with the 42DD CBE because I figured it would probably be too loud for my taste.

There have been lots of questions here about connecting the 42DD DP with the APR CBE, but no concrete info. I've spent some time researching and taking some measurements this past week, and I've got a bolt-up solution (no cutting your DP or CBE and no welding required).

The 42DD DP mates up with a series of flange connections, which you can see from the product picture here on 42DD's website:

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Mk6-Golf-R-3-Downpipe_p_460.html

In the middle of that picture, you can see a reducer that bolts onto the end of the 42DD DP to mate to the 2.5" stock exhaust. Obviously, you can't use that reducer when connecting to the APR CBE, which has 3" piping. I didn't want to have to cut off that last flange and weld a piece of straight pipe to the end of the DP. So, a flanged connector is necessary.

I called up John at 42DD earlier this week and asked him if he could make something for me. He said yes, and all he needed were the measurements. My APR CBE arrived yesterday, so I was able to figure out what I'll need. Here's a diagram of what comes with the APR CBE and how it pieces together:



Like the 42DD DP, the APR CBE comes with a 3" - 2.5" reducer to mate up to the stock exhaust, which looks like this:



That reducer connects to the resonator. It slides inside the piping to the resonator, which looks like this:



The connection is secured by a clamp. So what I needed to know was the outer diameter of the fat end of the reducer piece, which is exactly 3":



It doesn't matter for this purpose, but FWIW, APR uses 16 gauge steel:



The only other measurement I needed is the length of the flanged 3" connector. I did not have any interest in putting my car up on a rack, hanging the APR exhaust and measureing the distance to the 42DD DP, so I called up APR and asked them how long the extension tube is for their downpipe service kit (the link is to the GLI product page, but it is the same kit for the Golf R. APR didn't have the exact specs, but Jeremy told me it was about 6" - 8" long. John at 42DD agreed that it wouldn't have to be any longer than 10".

If I need the connector to be shorter, it's easy enough to cut it. I'll have the guys at my shop measure the final length and I'll update my post with exactly what you need, so anyone doing this won't even have to take that step. Also, note that the connection at the APR resonator has some adjustability, so you have a little play to work with.

I called John this afternoon to place my order. He charged me $30 to make the piece and told me it would ship tomorrow. As usual, awesome customer service from those guys. They are definitely one of the good ones.

UPDATE: I can now confirm that you need a 3" (outer diameter) straight pipe with a 42DD flange on one end (the side that connects to the 42DD down pipe). The whole piece should be 10" long in total. This worked perfectly for me with no cutting required. 42DD can custom make this piece for you for a VERY reasonable price. I have spoken to John at 42DD and gave him the heads up, so he'll know exactly what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #808 ·
Looking forward to this exhaust being done as it's the route I will be taking. Already have the 42dd downpipe.

Be sure to post up the length the adapter ends up being.
I definitely will post a follow-up confirming that this works perfectly (or identifying any issues) and will include the final length of the adapter piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #809 ·
42DD shipped the custom adapter piece the next day (Friday). Should get here early next week. Awesome vendor.

I will be writing up my Haldex Comp impressions this weekend. Just have to get 20 uninterrupted minutes.

In the meantime, my latest mod:



I'm too tall for it to fit behind the driver's seat.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
 

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42DD shipped the custom adapter piece the next day (Friday). Should get here early next week. Awesome vendor.

I will be writing up my Haldex Comp impressions this weekend. Just have to get 20 uninterrupted minutes.

In the meantime, my latest mod:



I'm too tall for it to fit behind the driver's seat.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Is it a Recaro?? :D
 

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42DD shipped the custom adapter piece the next day (Friday). Should get here early next week. Awesome vendor.

I will be writing up my Haldex Comp impressions this weekend. Just have to get 20 uninterrupted minutes.

In the meantime, my latest mod:



I'm too tall for it to fit behind the driver's seat.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
LOL. I've had my Chicho KeyFit 30 in use for 3.5 months now. My latest mod, however, is to get the mirror placed correctly, and to be easily removable. I used velcro and a new strap with a detachable clasp to take the mirror down when she's not in the car.



Wish I had some black foam, but this was lying around.


In the hatch...


Leaves it clean when disassembled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #813 ·
Is it a Recaro?? :D
No, not for one of these infant seats. I may look at the Recaro upright child seats when she gets a little older. When we were buying this car seat, we saw a guy come into the store with his daughter and let her help pick out the seat. It was pretty awesome, so I might try something similar.

LOL. I've had my Chicho KeyFit 30 in use for 3.5 months now. My latest mod, however, is to get the mirror placed correctly, and to be easily removable. I used velcro and a new strap with a detachable clasp to take the mirror down when she's not in the car.
I love the mod, man! That is excellent! I may try something similar.

Did you put a protective mat or anything underneath the base or between the base and the seat back? I don't want to have any rubbing spots on the leather.
 

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No, not for one of these infant seats. I may look at the Recaro upright child seats when she gets a little older. When we were buying this car seat, we saw a guy come into the store with his daughter and let her help pick out the seat. It was pretty awesome, so I might try something similar.



I love the mod, man! That is excellent! I may try something similar.

Did you put a protective mat or anything underneath the base or between the base and the seat back? I don't want to have any rubbing spots on the leather.
I had the same Chico in my car for kids number 1 & 2. I now have four Recaro's, two in each car. Two are the convertible and two are more toddler. I love them.

As for mats, I have found the Price Lionheart to be really good. I have had a car seat of one from or another in my Volvo for almost three years, and no permanent dents or issues.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000083GHY
 

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I love the mod, man! That is excellent! I may try something similar.

Did you put a protective mat or anything underneath the base or between the base and the seat back? I don't want to have any rubbing spots on the leather.
I had a mat for a while, but took it out. I was concerned with the permanent dimples the childseat will put in the seatback, but the mat isn't going to help that. Our back seats are kinda bucketed, which is cool, but a negative for the Chicco since it's a little wider than the bucket (I'm sure you noticed that already but stating it here for any others). When I take the car seat out, I usually loosen the seatbase with that little orange clasp, so the pressure isn't there all the time. The mat also (slightly) pushes the seat forward, depending on its thickness - which as you pointed out - is the issue with our and many cars. I almost bought an S4, but the R has slightly better rear leg room. Go figure.

My mirror mod has the mirror in a spot that you can't see it in the main Rear View Mirrow, but you can look back quickly to see if she's still alive. I didn't like the mirror way up on the headrest since it took up too much space in the viewshed, and wasn't easy to take down.

When is your daughter due? Mine's 3.5 months now, and tons of fun.
 

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By far one of the most comprehensive and well written build threads! Tremendous job and many thanks TLud!

Just ordered the VWR intake and was just referencing your Modshack intake bracket modification and got some questions.

Did you purchase the entire kit only to use the bolt and spacer included? I saw in the thread you referenced they mentioned a #8 sheet metal bolt (length unknown), however I'm curious to know the height measurement of this addition if I go the custom route.
 

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TLud,

When the kids get older, check this out.

http://accessories.volvocars.com/Ac...RY/2013/all/all/L.H.D/ShowDocument/VCC-463345

I have them in both cars and love it. They fit the back of the front seat really well, an don't impact the ability to sit the front seat any. The kids love sticking things in the pockets, like sun glasses. Plus these are really long, so in the Golf you need to trim the bottom, but I left mine long enough I tuck the bottom under the front set to keep things from rolling up there.

Yes my pimp Golf R is rocking dual car seats, and seat back protectors. What Up!!
 

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Your post got me to look into this more. Take a look at this picture (which I posted earlier from Hyde16's review):



Bolt nos. 3 and 4 on the lower subframe, which are replaced by the ARP bolts provided in the Tyrol Sport kit, are VW p/n N10640301.

Subframe/LCA bolt nos. 1, 2, 5 and 6 in the picture above are VW p/n N91039802, but I did not use these. I supplied my shop with the Audi/Passat bolts p/n N90823501, per Tyrol Sports recommendation.

Interestingly, there are two other lower subframe bolts (not numbered in the picture above), which are on the front side of the lower subframe (if you draw a line between bolt nos. 1 and 6, that line will run through these bolts). These are VW p/n N10528602. I'm not sure why the instructions don't call for the replacement of these bolts also because it seems to me that you'd need to loosen them to install the kit. Am I right?

EDIT: Looking at Flieger's list, I think I am right. I'm not sure why TS doesn't mention to replace these (unless perhaps they are not stretch bolts).
Just an FYI... for anyone reading. My shop did the install on this. One of the factory bolts was mangled. He had to drop the whole sub frame and tap it out to get the new bolts in. In this case I am happy I had someone else doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #819 · (Edited)
I've had the HPA Haldex Competition Controller (HCC) installed on my car for 2.5 weeks now and have had a chance to drive it in a lot of different driving situations, so here's my review. I have not tracked or autox'd my car, so this review will really be geared toward those who daily drive their R.

For what it's worth, I drive on 235/35/19 summer performance rubber, and the only change I've made to my R's suspension is the ROW R springs. My R is stage 2+.

I installed the HCC myself. You can read my install tips here.

Driving Impressions

I am very impressed with the way the R delivers power in the corners now.

As soon as I installed the HCC, I took it for a test drive. The first opportunity I had to test the HCC came soon after I stopped at a red light at a major intersection. I was the lead car in the left turn lane and decided to really get on it. In the same situation pre-HCC, although power went to all four wheels, the R still felt like it was being pulled around the turn with the front tires doing much more of the work. With Stage 2+ power, the front tires would scramble a little bit at the launch. Also, when launching into a turn from a stop, it was very hard to get the rear end to rotate much.

This time, however, things were very different. When I launched, I was stunned at how well the power went to the ground through the entire turn. Not only was there NO slip, the car felt very planted and controlled. Instead of feeling pulled through the turn, it felt like all four wheels were pushing the car through the turn, working together. It also launched noticeably harder. And the car rotated beautifully. Not like a high-powered RWD car where you have to ease on to the throttle to avoid kicking the rear end out. It was much more controlled. It felt perfect.

In turns from a roll, I think the difference is a little less noticeable. In that situation, even before installing the HCC, I had gotten pretty good at getting the back end to rotate pretty well with a combination of steering and throttle input. Now, less steering input is required and you can do more with the throttle input. You can also get on the throttle sooner without understeering due to the weight shifting back from the acceleration. And as is the case when turning from a stop, the car again feels much more planted and controlled, especially over rougher pavement. Hitting a mid-turn bump while accelerating does not upset the car nearly as much now.

On a long sweeper that I drive every day, I can reach a slightly higher top speed. That said, you don't really notice the HCC in that situation as much as you do when accelerating out of lower speed turns.

With the first-stage ESP off, the R is even more tail-happy and you have to be more careful, much like with a high-powered RWD car, but not as dramatic.

Some people talk about how drastic the difference is, and while it is a significant improvement, I would be remiss if I didn't point out that the HCC does not turn this car into a RWD machine. It does not change the general principles you should follow in driving this car. Also, the difference will not be dramatic if you drive fairly tamely. The car feels pretty much like it did before when just cruising around conservatively, which for me is a good thing. But if that's the only way you drive, don't bother getting the HCC.

As most of you already know, the Competition controller increases the Haldex clutch torque when braking, which shifts more of the work to the rear wheels. Going to work every day, I encounter the same decreasing radius off-ramp which ends abruptly in a stop light. There is a dramatic difference in how much more planted and controlled the car feels under threshold braking when I come in hot. Under straight-line braking, I don't notice the difference unless I'm really braking hard.

Overall, I'd highly recommend this mod. It should come second to a good set of performance tires and lightweight wheels, but once you have them, this is an awesome next step.

Effect on Fuel Economy

I've delayed this review to give me enough time to run a few tanks of gas in different driving conditions since the install to compare before and after fuel economy.

In terms of city driving, I did not observe any difference in fuel economy post-install. I did not include my first full tank of gas post-install in my calculations because I was romping on the car a lot more in corners to get a feel for the performance differences. Since then, I have driven consistently with my typical usage. Unless I take a road trip, 95% of my driving is city driving and it is very consistent week to week. Before the HCC, I averaged approximately 21.2 mpg. In the three tanks of city driving since installing the HCC, I averaged approximately 21.1 mpg. The minimal difference is almost certainly due to factors other than the HCC.

I also took a road trip up to DFW over the July 4th weekend, which allowed me to measure highway fuel efficiency there and back, which is a trip I have made a number of times before installing the HCC. Unless I'm in a hurry, I will generally set my cruise control at 85 on that trip. There are a few speed trap sections just outside of Dallas, where I will go slower, but that is consistent from trip to trip. On that route, I typically average just above 25 mpg, depending on weather and traffic conditions. If I'm below 25 mpg, there's usually a reason for it: heavy rain, strong headwind, bad traffic, etc.

On my July 4th trip, I averaged just above 24.5 going up and coming back. The traffic was clear and there was no rain or strong headwind on either day. Obviously, without comparing same day and same conditions, there is no way to evaluate this scientifically, but I suspect this small decrease was due to the HCC. Perhaps it is due to increased mechanical resistance when letting off the gas and coasting, but that's pure speculation. I'll keep my eye on this during future road trips and update as necessary.
 

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Solid review there. That's not much of a hit at all on gas mileage for all the improved handling characteristics. Do you feel like you're getting to the end of "worthwhile" mods to do on your R? Some people can mod for mods sake till the end of time, of course...
 
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