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Tranny Fluid Replacement

546 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  BigCaddyHome
Decided to change the tranny fluid in my 83 GTI. Went to the local import parts store and bought 2 quarts of Redline Synthetic (GL4 Equivalent). The guy at the counter told me to warm it up and pull the drain plug and let it all drain out. Then pull the speedo cable and put two complete quarts in. Did all that, then noticed that I only got about 1.5 qts out.
The problem is, now when I start my car when it is in gear (clutch down) it jumps at first. Start is out of gear and it doesnt want to go into any gear. Works fine when everything is nice and toasty though.
Is too much fluid causing this? I am going to pull the fill plug on the side and see if any drains out and hope that fixes the problem. Any other ideas?
Thanks
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Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (65dlx)

I'd check the clutch cable adjustment and also the shift linkage alignment.
Was there any metal shavings in the gear oil you drained out?
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (VWCaddy)

My Caddy does the same on cold mornings. Granted I'm running 90W 130 in it. Molasses until it warms up. The lunging forward movement is a result of the thick (cold) tranny fluid moving about. Linkage could cause this but unlikely. If it did move forward after it was nice and warm then I would understand a linkage problem. I have difficulty shifting into first and second until it's warmed up. Thankfully no crunching. I should also mention that my tranny has been fully rebuilt. It can be a normal occurance with thick cold tranny fluid. Friend of mine is experiencing the same problem with his new 6 speed tranny. He's changing to a lighter weight tranny fluid.
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (65dlx)

83 original tranny only gets filled to the fill hole. Overfilling probably caused some leaking past the pushrod bushing and seal and now your clutch disc is a little sticky. Lower the fluid level and give it some time - if you're lucky, the fluid will burn off the clutch disc enough to let you use it for daily street use. If not, plan on replacing the bushing and seal. If the car's getting hard use, plan on pulling the tranny and replacing everything (including the bushing and seal).
HTH
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (flogger)

- didn't notice any metal shavings, but didnt look either.
- has only been 4 days and I only drive about 25 miles a day. Hopefully any leaking hasnt been to damaging so far!
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (65dlx)

Transmission fluid is the wrong weight. The increased viscosity when cold is rotating the entire input gear stack. The thick oil is causing the gears to "stick" together without the syncro engaged. Also check clutch cable adjustment.
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (gearhead455)

Whats happening here is you are getting oil or tranny lube on the clutch disk. It has nothing to do with the weight. The clutch disk is not seperating from the pressure plate/flywheel enough (sticking). Does the clutch chatter sometimes when you pull out? Either your Rear main seal on the crank may be leaking or your pushrod seal. Or, the pushrod brass bushing has gone bad and is allowing some slop to ruin the pushrod seal. I have delt with this problem more than once with A1s and A2s. You should replace the clutch system: $120.oo and all of the seals: Rear main, pushrod, intermediate shaft. and the pushrod brass bushing. $15.oo This should keep her is good shape for another 100k+. If there is any blue spots on the flywheel, it might be wise to have it turned...
Good luck
While your at it, slap in some new axle flange seals. Much easier while the tranny is out. $30.oo
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (gearhead455)

The problem occured after the fluid change, everything was fine before. Cold thick gear oil will do this. If the disk was saturated with oil the symptom would be a slip. Not a 0mph nutral 1st engaging problem. Or by dumb luck the clutch / clutch adjustment whent fubar at the same time you changed the fluid.
Re: Tranny Fluid Replacement (gearhead455)

The clutch will stick if oil is being deposited onto the disk. It will slip if a lot of oil gets on it.. .
"The problem is, now when I start my car when it is in gear (clutch down)"------This would tell me that this happens when the clutch is engaged.... meaning there should not be any motion in the tranny.... meaning that ... nothing is spinning in there....(Oil or no oil, the weight of the oil has nothing to do with this because if you have the clutch engaged... it should not be spinning the intermediate shaft into the tranny.) SO, the problem is that the clutch disk is sticking to the pressure plate and flywheel Causing it to spin in the tranny (which won't allow you to get the car in gear... and if it is in gear, it will have the effect of having the clutch disengaged....
Being that the problem now exists after you replaced the oil is this... After time, Oil/dirt and particles will collect around the seals actually helping them seal the opening. When you drain the oil, you drain the dirt and particles too.. Now, you replace the oil with a great synthetic type.. and it is able to slip by the seals..
Trust me on this one... Been there, done that.
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