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Trick to removing 16v head?

3K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  leeruns 
#1 ·
I have removed all of the head bolts but can’t seem to separate the heAd from the block. What am I missing?


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#4 ·
Rather than start a new thread I'm going to add to this one as it's basically the same topic.

Helped a friend take apart a 16v today.
Has a bad bearing on #2 rod we found out.
But we could not for the life of us get the head off.
We removed all other hardware.

We aren't sure but assume the engine has been upgraded with APR head studs (since it doesn't have head bolts but has studs and nuts).

We removed the nuts and washers from the studs.
We pulled / lifted / used a wooden block and hammer.....
NOTHING!

I was reading somewhere that it might be better to double nut the studs and remove them as they could bind.
Anybody with any experience with this issue ?
Thanks!
 
#10 ·
Like my engine I built on the stand, the head does go into place but when the engine is installed, the head may not come out due to space.

Never worked on a 16V, but double nutting would be difficult at best since you cannot get the tools in the head to perform that task. You could tack weld the nut to the stud but that could cause even more issues.
 
#14 ·
Studs were removed.
They finally loosened with a combination of double nuts and/or stud extraction tools.
Threads were butchered and yes some studs were harmed in this effort.

Then the next puzzle happened.
Once head was removed, the studs would not come out of the head.
In either direction.
So we resorted to a cutoff tool, since several were already toast.
After cutting one or two, we noticed that the inside of the top stud opening in the head was threaded, just one or two circles. So studs would need to be lifted then turned to engage the threads and removed.
And with the stud in place, the threads were not readily apparent.
Anyone ever seen that before ?

Slightly blurry image below.
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#15 ·
So the engine and head have been to the machine shop.
Purchased new ARP studs that are tightened with an allen key.
But the new studs also won't fit through the holes in the head!?!
And they won't 'screw' through either.

I can't see any purpose for the 2-3 threads at the TOP of the passage where the washer / nut will sit.
Anybody ever seen this before ?
Any reason we can't just machine the passage a little larger (i.e. remove the threads) ?

Ted
 
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