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Oh and here is something else that should cause a stir with certain individuals.
I was having a PM discussion with somebody and they mentioned that the stock PCV gases might have a hand in TB failures. This might also pertain to Intake Manifold failures.
If the PCV gases that are filled with oil vapors and gunk get into the bearings, actuators, and electrical components in the TB and Intake Manifold it could cause premature failure.
 

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OK - My Motor is Still Stock - so the vapors I'm Hoping aren't as Bad

Oh and here is something else that should cause a stir with certain individuals.
I was having a PM discussion with somebody and they mentioned that the stock PCV gases might have a hand in TB failures. This might also pertain to Intake Manifold failures.
If the PCV gases that are filled with oil vapors and gunk get into the bearings, actuators, and electrical components in the TB and Intake Manifold it could cause premature failure.

OK - My Motor is Still Stock - so the vapors I'm Hoping aren't as Bad ( I Hope ) - I'm
Going to do an Internal Cleaning of Sorts , I'll also be running My Oil a Little Lower 1/4 cup
on the stick - might help . Just really Hate having - My Hands Tidied , as in Not much One can Do .

That Catch Can is looking better .
Maybe I can Just UN-Hook the PVC - Pipe all together , and threw it away ! LOL
 

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You Might want to Use this :
Check Out the 30" special Red Tube .
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...oam-spray.html
Yeah, if you look up my created threads, I did a DIY on how to seafoam your car using the caned version. Warning, our cars smoke a lot! I've done it in the past, had cars smoke a decent amount, butThe 2.0T filled my entire driveway after a few revs. Took it out around the block and you couldn't see anything out the back window, it was actually pretty dangerous for those behind me. It was a real smoke screen. I did it twice in one week and the second time was worst than the first. when I pulled my manifold I still had quite a large amount of carbon build up. Next time I have a VAG Comm available I'm going to do it again.
Don't know how I feel about deleting the PVC; If I'm not mistaken the engine relies on the blowby to achieve maximum fuel efficiency. A functional PVC is also required to pass inspection If I'm not mistaken.
 

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If I'm not mistaken the engine relies on the blowby to achieve maximum fuel efficiency. A functional PVC is also required to pass inspection If I'm not mistaken.
WUT? Dont see how pumping oil vapors into your motor is going to increase fuel efficiency.

You are correct that the PCV system needs to be intact for inspecation.
I highly doubt the inspection will go as far to trace a pcv line to determine where it goes.
Chances are they will pop the hood, realize that the motor has 245724572457 lines running around, check to make sure there arent any noticeable failures, and just close the hood and say all is good.
 

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WUT? Dont see how pumping oil vapors into your motor is going to increase fuel efficiency.

You are correct that the PCV system needs to be intact for inspecation.
I highly doubt the inspection will go as far to trace a pcv line to determine where it goes.
Chances are they will pop the hood, realize that the motor has 245724572457 lines running around, check to make sure there arent any noticeable failures, and just close the hood and say all is good.
crankcase vepors often contain majority unburt fuel oil vaports and other gasses.

Realizing we're direct injection your right its mostly oil vapors
Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk
 

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Don't know how I feel about deleting the PVC; If I'm not mistaken the engine relies on the blowby to achieve maximum fuel efficiency. A functional PVC is also required to pass inspection If I'm not mistaken.

Actually that specialized nipple seen in that thread sucks all the crankcase gases out and runs it post catalytic converter.... and I mean it sucks it out real good :p :laugh: with just the right amount of vacuum. When inspection time arrives, connecting up the stock OEM PCV system is a snap! I have spoken with many who have indeed done this and they say it works like a charm! :thumbup:
 

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I know this is off-topic but has anyone seen the HEP FSI intake manifold? Looks really good quality and they even have Stage 1,2, & 3. I'm actually wondering if they ever make one for the TSI. Only thing is its a bit pricey but like I said quality is top notch.


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- thanks,
- mao
 

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How did you know that you needed to clean your manifold? I don't drive all that often (have less than 10k on my GTI) since I bought my car 18 months ago. I had my first VW service about 1k ago (i dumped and refilled at 3k) and ever since my CEL has come on every few days or so. It's been on and cleared itself at least 5 times now. Is this behavior the kind of thing that prompts a mani/valve cleaning?

If so, wouldn't I make VW do it, since its under warranty?
 

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^ If you have less than 10K on the clock and barely drive your car..you should be fine. Usually guys do it roughly around 50K-80K and some do it earlier. It really depends on you. You should have someone do a vag-com check on your car to see what's up with cel.


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- mao
 

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I'm taking it in to VW today to have them look at it. Of course when I called, they guessed it was emissions related. The CEL came on again last night...i think this makes 6 times now in the last month. I'll let you know if its manifold related.


Trip to dealership #1
Dealer said that a sensor was sending a fault - related to evaporative emissions. Tech found it to be the sensor used to monitor intake manifold flapper actuation. Said he tweaked the sensor and sent me home. Of course I knew this wouldn't fix it, but I played their game. The next day, my CEL came on.

Trip to dealership #2
Dealer traced the fault to the same sensor and noticed this time that the flappers were sticking. VW replaced the intake manifold with a revised version under warranty. the revised version has lubrication spots that are further away from where the flappers pivot. Supposedly, the previous mani would clog at those lubrication ports and due to their close proximity to the flappers, would cause them to stick. Sounds like a load of bunk, but that's what he said. Also updated the ECQ to increase fuel pressure in the injectors - this is supposed to help as well???

No CEL since, but its only been about 300 miles on the car.
 

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Friend of mine just purchased a media blaster and some walnut shell media.
We are going to setup an install day and both of us are going to clean out our valves sometime coming up.
 

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OK , Good Input , I have a few ?'s

I'm trying to get a Real Understanding - is all the Technical Data - on this
PVC System for the - - - 2.0 TSI - VW

Anyone is this Picture an Exact Design - Or - What It should have Been ?

Picture of Audi's PVC or FSI's ?

As I can't seem to find the Filter - Mentioned / The Pic makes it seem PVC has a Filter. This could just be the FSI's PVC system and It's Oil Filter .


[/URL]
 

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Keep in mind

This study guide is not without its flaws! Page 8 clearly shows its the exhaust camshaft that has the 4 lobe cam for the fuel pump. Then on page 38 it clearly states that its the "intake camshaft" with the 4 lobe cam.
 

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This study guide is not without its flaws! Page 8 clearly shows its the exhaust camshaft that has the 4 lobe cam for the fuel pump. Then on page 38 it clearly states that its the "intake camshaft" with the 4 lobe cam.
Good eye. I wonder if there is an updated pdf since that was printed in 2008.
 

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All Right - Thanks - Guys - I Feel a lot better about the Motor Now !

That's some real good Input , really appreciate that .

Dan

:beer:

ps: I did the Sea-Foam thing into Intake yesterday : ( Sprayed into Hot Manifold )
, and let the Stuff Rest in there . I also added Marvel to Oil and Drove 60 miles afterward
then Dropped Oil and Fresh Filter . It seems to be running Better ( Smoother ) - this will turn into a long term Test .


ps: Page 28 : Engine Coil Cooler - Yes I can see the Coils being Cooled by the Oil & Water
going though the - Oil Cooler . another Error .

I step Cooler Spark Plug would help Cool those Coils : ;)
 

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That's some real good Input , really appreciate that .

Dan

:beer:

ps: I did the Sea-Foam thing into Intake yesterday : ( Sprayed into Hot Manifold )
, and let the Stuff Rest in there . I also added Marvel to Oil and Drove 60 miles afterward
then Dropped Oil and Fresh Filter . It seems to be running Better ( Smoother ) - this will turn into a long term Test .


ps: Page 28 : Engine Coil Cooler - Yes I can see the Coils being Cooled by the Oil & Water
going though the - Oil Cooler . another Error .

I step Cooler Spark Plug would help Cool those Coils : ;)
I seafoamed with the special U-nozzle at 12k. Got no smoke at all. 1/2 a can. Will do the other 1/2 next spring.
You can Seafoam every day of the week for seven months straight, it doesn't do a thing. A fellow officer buddy of mine who lives in Cold Spring Harbor NY has a 2.0T EOS. He Seafoamed it twice this year. (I helped him the first time.) The second time he did it himself and cracked his manifold somehow :)facepalm:) and had the dealership replace it under warranty. (He's good with that sort of thing.)

That same day he ran by the dealership a little early on the way home from work only to find that they had just started on his car and it wouldn't be ready until the next day. When he looked into his intake ports, (the manifold and all had been removed) he said they were so clogged and dirty with carbon, he told them to clean the ports and valves as well! They did the job but charged him $500.00 extra! :eek: He told me the inside of his cracked intake manifold wasn't any better. He also said he will never buy that SeaCrap ever again or waste his time with "miracle juices out of a can"! That's how he said it.
 
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