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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys. Finally made some noticeable progress on the car. As some of you may know I purchased a 2002 Quattro earlier this year. My old car was a 400+ HP GTI that went really nice in a straight line but did not turn and did not drive under 60mph due to the lack of traction. I am ready to change that now.
Going fast is in a straight line is fun, maybe it was a phase or something lol, but I realized going around corners seems to be more fun. So before even worrying about power this time around I want to make sure chassis and suspension is well taken care off. At the same time also want to make sure all the maintenance has been updated and the car has been restored as close to new as possible. Part of that means replacing every bolt and bushing on the car and replacing oem parts with better stuff ;P
Here is the parts list so far (EDIT updated parts list):
Go around corner stuff
KW V3
Upgraded springs front/linear spring conversion rear
BFI lower front tie bar
Defcon Control Arm Inserts (with OEM bushings)
all new oem bushings and bolts for every suspension component
new bearings and hubs
powder coated frames, arms, etc
front sub frame brace welded in
CPT Rear Adjustable Control Arms (upper and lower)
Neuspeed Rear Race 25mm Sway Bar
HR front sway
Orange Haldex Controller
Ground Control Camber Plates
Stasis Alcon Front 13”
Stasis Rear
Status Racing Ring Leather (Driver & Passenger)
VF Engineering Mounts (all 3)
rota torque 18x9.5 /with Yokohama ADVAN A048 285s (all around)
Go fast stuff
Nothing yet
Besides the above mods the goal is to drop some weight on the car as well. Plan is to get it just a tad below 3000 while keeping comfort and safety – that means keeping AC of course, stereo and speakers, airbags and interior panels. At this point all tools and spare are removed, seats, rear ballast, insulation under the carpet, and some other random stuff here and there. Another thing is going to be some stiffening of the front sub frame by welding on support braces on the front side and triangular braces in the rear.
Here is what I have been able to get done so far.

2007-12-02
Removed the carpet to get rid of the insulation below. Quite a bit of stuff has to come off, rear seats, center console, some trim pieces to finally get the carpet out. Now on a GTI the insulation pieces below the carpet come to quite a bit of weight (15-20lbs), something I had thought is the same on the TT, I was wrong. But with all the stuff off and the carpet out of the car I figured let me get rid of it anyways. Quite painful to remove all the stuff that is glued to the carpet - My girl friend was actually helping me and doing the passenger side (yeap she is a keeper), took both of us probably 1.5-2 hours for one side by using a flat head screw driver and jamming it into the foam and prying it out. So in summary, don’t bother, honestly, I am not sure why I did not just put it back. Guess its one of those moments after spending many hours removing crap I did not want it to go to waste - so yay for <5lbs weight savings. Now that that was done I put the car on the lift, its new home for the next few months.




2007-12-08
Started working on the rear end. Removed rear bumper and exhaust to get some more access. The bolt in the exhaust clamp in the center must have seen some rough times. It actually broke in half when taking it off. Also started removing brakes and tried to get the axle out. Being an older car no matter how hard I slammed the hammer the axle would not move – after many bad words decided to order the axle removal tool. I figured if the rear is this hard the front is going to be similar.


2008-01-05
Probably most progress this weekend. Removed the remaining parts from each side such as trailing arms, brackets, control arms. Started taking off the sub frame bolts as well ... little tip, always do that together with a buddy. The rear diff and sub frame is a lot heavier then it looks - learned that the hard way <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"> .
I loosened the sub frame bolts and then lowered the car so the rear diff would sit right on top of my little round chair (with a piece of wood for extra support). All went well, removed all sub frame bolts and pushed it backwards to remove from driveshaft. I figured I’d just try to lower the seat while holding it with my other hand – yeah did not work, sub frame decided to leave a nice mark in the floor

And another one of those “special tools needed” scenarios. Darn rear diff bracket needs a 14mm triple square bit – no one local had anything so I had to order it online. Oh well, going be out of town next week anyways so it should be home once I get back.
While everything was off inspected all threads on chassis and other areas on the under body to make sure nothing is rusted and that all under coating is still there – everything looks perfect – that made me happy since I did not want to have to deal with some re-coating below.
As you can see lots of stuff dirty and rusted, and more dirt and rust. That’s the next part, cleaning stuff, inspecting for leaks, checking all seals, and putting it back together. Already have a new rear sub frame as the one currently had too much rust buildup.
It’ll be a nice difference seeing it all cleaned up and fresh








Hopefully will have time next weekend so I can start doing the same to the front as well. Stay tuned for updates.


Modified by chaugner at 2:53 PM 1-4-2010
 

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Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)

Quote, originally posted by A4 1.8 Turbo »
props on doing suspension and the things that REALLY matter first!!!!

x2
 

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Re: (Blue TTop)

Nice, I'll keep watching.
Looks like you did the same thing as me having a 400hp GTI and starting over with a TT. TT is quite fun, like you said slower in a straight line but fun in the twisties.
 

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Re: (skydaman)

looking good, keep the progress and updates commin http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)

impressive http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
how do u like that style lift? i was thinking of picking one up.
 

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Re: (liquidicenf)

im actually confused by this thread.my first impression was that you were converting this car into a track car (led to believe this from the painstaking way you made sure to get rid of unnecessary weight, camber plates, reinforcement of the subframe etc.), but then i see ac, radio, and air bags mixed in there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (liquidicenf)

Quote, originally posted by liquidicenf »
how do u like that style lift? i was thinking of picking one up.

lift is awesome. Makes a huge difference when trying to do stuff. I can sit on my chair under the car and work fairly easily. None of the work has been done laying on my back, all either sitting or standing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (Maverick1.8t)

Quote, originally posted by Maverick1.8t »
im actually confused by this thread.my first impression was that you were converting this car into a track car (led to believe this from the painstaking way you made sure to get rid of unnecessary weight, camber plates, reinforcement of the subframe etc.), but then i see ac, radio, and air bags mixed in there...

rome was not built in one day. As you see nothing is getting done to the engine, heck I am going to put the oem exhaust back on, stock turbo, engine bay untouched. One thing at a time. I do want to drive the car you know, been missing it for the past few months so I am keeping the projects in phases.
Welding the subframe is more meant for removing deflection (just like the defcon inserts). The subframe has been called the "5th spring" since under load there is some deflection. The Roadster version actually has some OEM braces due to the additional weight of the car to remove deflection. Steering response under load should be increased by quite a bit and will be a nice addition to the defcon inserts.
Reason for this thread is just like any other build thread. Figured it would be nice to share what I am doing since its not hte standard "put some shocks and springs on". I have never done what I am doing now, so in case someone else wants to get some ideas they can read up here and can read it from my noobish perspective. I mean who the heck would try to put the rear diff with subframe on a tiny chair and level it with one hand?



Modified by chaugner at 8:39 AM 1-7-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (TSTARKZ123)

Quote, originally posted by TSTARKZ123 »
I'm sorry, I don't see what you're installing why you removed the rear subframe.

the current one is in not so good shape. Lots of rust on the welds and needed to replace bushings. Also with the diff removed its a bit easier taking it all apart and checking for wear. Also removed it just because I can
 

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Re: (chaugner)

Quote, originally posted by chaugner »

the current one is in not so good shape. Lots of rust on the welds and needed to replace bushings. Also with the diff removed its a bit easier taking it all apart and checking for wear. Also removed it just because I can

Gotcha...keep up the good work!
 

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Re: (chaugner)

Quote, originally posted by chaugner »

the current one is in not so good shape. Lots of rust on the welds and needed to replace bushings. Also with the diff removed its a bit easier taking it all apart and checking for wear. Also removed it just because I can

Nerd.
 

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Re: (chaugner)

Two things:
1) Since your rear diff is out, have you thought about the new Peloquin rear diff? http://www.peloquins.com/R32 REARwm.jpg
2) What kind of lift is that, and how much did it cost?
I like that you're doing a balls-out build, and that your documenting it. Much appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (l88m22vette)

Quote, originally posted by l88m22vette »

1) Since your rear diff is out, have you thought about the new Peloquin rear diff? http://www.peloquins.com/R32 REARwm.jpg

eventually I may do that. If I do a diff it will be the one in the front first as you get more value from it. Increasing traction in the front is more important that the light rear end. Rear diff you will notice based on track times, front diff you can feel the difference in behavior and balance.
Quote, originally posted by l88m22vette »

2) What kind of lift is that, and how much did it cost?


http://www.pacetools.com/Products/VMR-6S
its around $150 shipping and then another $75 from loading dock to the house. That thing rocks. All of the work you have seen so far has been done either sitting or standing. No need to lay on your back for anything. Other thing is also weight balance. I feel much more confident using a braker bar to remove some bolts on the lift then on jackstands.
 

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Re: (chaugner)

Quote, originally posted by chaugner »

its around $150 shipping and then another $75 from loading dock to the house. That thing rocks. All of the work you have seen so far has been done either sitting or standing. No need to lay on your back for anything. Other thing is also weight balance. I feel much more confident using a braker bar to remove some bolts on the lift then on jackstands.

I really like that lift and I can totally understand the comfortable factor using a braker bar on that lift vs. jack stands.
Excellent work so far and definitely looking forward to more updates
 

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Re: (vwglinut)

I'll give you a head start on the V3s. Freakin' pain in the ass to adjust rears. they're great though. anyway:
front compression has 4.5 turns available (on bottom of strut) go to 1.75 turns from full soft
front rebound has 18, go to 7 from full soft
rear compression has 10, go to 3 from soft
rear rebound (really a bitch to reach after on car) has 12, go to 6 from soft
car is still quite compliant, does not bounce. car rotates very well. at 130+ car is still planted and confident. great mix of traction at all times basically. you can play from there.
 
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