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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI, I have had a few P04DB codes thrown on my 2012 TT-RS with UM Stage 2 tune. Note that I have the "v1" version of the tune (or at least the first version released to the general public). In the past, I would only get the code on cold days (<32deg) and with <1/3 tank of gas. I haven't been driving it often during the winter. I would see the code once or twice per winter and only during the winter. I have assumed it was an issue with the original Audi TT-RS OEM tune, used as the basis for the UM tune back in 2012-13.

This week the code popped up again. This time though it came back on within a day or so. It was in the mid-40's and I had just less than a full tank (about 3/4 full) when it through the code the second time. This makes me question the theory that the OEM Audi tune has a bug, causing the code to the thrown.

I know that the P04DB code points to the PCV system and that if there is an issue with the PCV system, Audi calls for replacing the entire valve/cam cover (list price $680, selling for ~$500).

Question: Before I spend $500 on a new cam cover, has anyone had problems with the P04DB code and had the issue fixed by a software/ECU update? Back in 2013, people with TT-RS's and stock ECU flashes were reporting this code, but I can't find any definitive answer whether Audi updating the ECU flash fixed their issue OR did Audi end up having to install new cam covers as well?

I was already planning to have UM update my ECU flash to the latest version. I will probably start with that and see if the code comes back. However, if I do have a problem with the PCV system, I want to address it sooner rather than later.

Thanks for the help.
 

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I've been having the same issue, off and on, with the stock tune. It also seems to happen when the temperature changes a lot. The dealer has looked at it a few times and there may be signs of a leak, so next step will probably be the valve cover. I think the sensor is at the back of the cover, by the HPFP. Seems like every time the dealer has reset or cleared the codes it goes away for a few months/year, clearing it with a cheapo hand scanner doesn't seem to reset it the same way and it will keep coming on.

There have been a couple others with the issue. I have no idea how the sensor is programmed and what the dealer is doing to reset it, maybe UM could look at it. Check for oil stains around the base of the cover too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've been having the same issue, off and on, with the stock tune. It also seems to happen when the temperature changes a lot. The dealer has looked at it a few times and there may be signs of a leak, so next step will probably be the valve cover. I think the sensor is at the back of the cover, by the HPFP. Seems like every time the dealer has reset or cleared the codes it goes away for a few months/year, clearing it with a cheapo hand scanner doesn't seem to reset it the same way and it will keep coming on.

There have been a couple others with the issue. I have no idea how the sensor is programmed and what the dealer is doing to reset it, maybe UM could look at it. Check for oil stains around the base of the cover too.
Thanks for the info, very helpful!

1. In the past, it has always been a long time for me as well between seeing this code.
2. I used the Android app Torque instead of VAGCOM to clear the code that morning, so it may have not truly been cleared. The MIL light came on the very next time I started the TT-RS that afternoon.
3. There had been some wild temp swings this week... Much colder overnight the morning that the code was set and warmer that afternoon. Off the top of my head, probably 20-25deg swings (mid 40's -> ~20 -> mid 40's)
3. I will check for sings of oil leakage as you suggested. I also need to put together/install a catch can setup, so that I can tell if the PCV system is actually letting an excessive amount of oil leave the cam cover.
4. I will discuss this code/issue with UM when I send in the ECU to be have the tune updated.
5. I did do a full VAGCOM scan today, saved the output, and then cleared the code. Hopefully, the code is actually cleared this time and it will be another year before it is set again ;)

I appreciate the feedback.

-Mike
 

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No problem Mike! I'd love to hear what solution you come to. Once mine is fixed, I'll be going UM too.

The only other thing I was considering was some moisture freezing in the PCV system and blocking a line, causing some pressure to build. I've never seen it happen in the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
It has been below freezing whenever mine has thrown this code, except for this very last time. However, I may not have actually fully cleared the code, since I didn't use VAGCOM. Audi mentions protecting the PCV system/engine from freezing in the TT-RS factory familiarization. It "could" happen, but seems pretty far fetched unless one doesn't let the engine fully heat up and burn off moisture on a frequent basis. I make a point not to do that...

Clarification:
By "protecting" I meant that the PCV system is designed to minimize the chance of freezing water impairing it and there are pressure release valves incase the PCV system does freeze to the point of not venting pressure from the crankcase.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

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I realize this thread is a little old, but has anyone actually had their valve cover replaced to resolve this issue? I have a new-to-me TTRS and am trying to resolve a similar code that keeps getting intermittently triggered. Not sure if I have other options other than valve cover replacement.
 

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I'm not sure what the cause/fix was, but the dealer replaced the valve cover and HPFP just before I went out of warranty. I haven't had a problem since. I can't say if it was a new revision of the parts, gaskets, or sensor... You could try replacing those parts, but I can't recommend it without knowing more.
 

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So of course with my luck I started getting this trouble code (P04DB) a couple months after I picked up my TTRS. I was able to clear the code a few times thinking the colder weather was triggering it. It would go away for some time but kept coming back. Finally it came back for good and I couldn't clear it anymore. The part that needed to be replaced was like $500 but seems to have fixed the issue and the code hasn't come back. Dealership said they had never seen this issue before on the TTRS so I assume not many will have to worry about it but maybe this info will help someone in the future.
 

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Bumping an old thread here, I am having the same issue on my 2012 TTRS, is it specifically just the red valve cover that needs to be replaced? i don't want to start throwing parts at it when they are $500
(hate to spend $500 and it isn't the correct fix) what specifically is the issue? is it fixable without replacing the V.C.?
I don't find much info around on this.
 

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Bumping an old thread here, I am having the same issue on my 2012 TTRS, is it specifically just the red valve cover that needs to be replaced? i don't want to start throwing parts at it when they are $500
(hate to spend $500 and it isn't the correct fix) what specifically is the issue? is it fixable without replacing the V.C.?
I don't find much info around on this.
Are you able to clear the code? If so does it come back right away?

Since there wasn't much info to go by on the web I bit the bullet and let the dealer diagnose this one and I had to wind up having the turbo inlet pipe replaced since part of the emissions system is integrated into it and caused the fault code when it failed. I was able to clear the code at first but after a while the code would immediately come back after clearing it.

I am not sure what the troubleshooting steps are to determine if the fault code pertains to the PCV system within the valve cover OR if it's something else (like in my case) but I know the dealer said they had never seen the issue before and had to reach out to Audi in Europe to finally track the issue down. Luckily I have't had the code come back since the part in question was replaced.
 

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Are you able to clear the code? If so does it come back right away?

Since there wasn't much info to go by on the web I bit the bullet and let the dealer diagnose this one and I had to wind up having the turbo inlet pipe replaced since part of the emissions system is integrated into it and caused the fault code when it failed. I was able to clear the code at first but after a while the code would immediately come back after clearing it.

I am not sure what the troubleshooting steps are to determine if the fault code pertains to the PCV system within the valve cover OR if it's something else (like in my case) but I know the dealer said they had never seen the issue before and had to reach out to Audi in Europe to finally track the issue down. Luckily I have't had the code come back since the part in question was replaced.
I cleared the code and it stayed off for maybe 15 miles, cleared it off again and maybe 20 miles it came back on. all seems to be running fine, coincidently this happened the same day I changed my oil, but I did not mess with anything else other than removing the oil cap and dip stick up top.
 

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If it were my own money and not in warranty, I'd order a new valve cover gasket and take the cover off myself. The PCV system is built into it and could probably be cleaned/inspected. If you see oil stains around the valve cover, you may only need a new gasket.

If you are comfortable with that, you are only out the cost of a gasket and some time.
 

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Sure wish these forums weren't so dead...

Just obtained a new to me TT RS and it has a stored fault code in it for the P04DB, and the light just came on. However, contrary to you others, it was about 90 here yesterday, and the car sat in the shade for most of the day, but did get that late afternoon heat.

I have no issues taking the valve cover off and cleaning things up a bit. However, if its something else, I'd like to know prior.

These cars have a few issues, that seem to go wrong with, but Audi says, well if it only happens to a few cars, then the problem doesn't really exist. Mine like a few others has the center part of the windshield that's not fully sealed down. When it rains or the car gets washed, water comes right through the center, travels down the A pillar, and it gets the fuse box wet...:facepalm:
 

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Sure wish these forums weren't so dead...

Just obtained a new to me TT RS and it has a stored fault code in it for the P04DB, and the light just came on. However, contrary to you others, it was about 90 here yesterday, and the car sat in the shade for most of the day, but did get that late afternoon heat.

I have no issues taking the valve cover off and cleaning things up a bit. However, if its something else, I'd like to know prior.

These cars have a few issues, that seem to go wrong with, but Audi says, well if it only happens to a few cars, then the problem doesn't really exist. Mine like a few others has the center part of the windshield that's not fully sealed down. When it rains or the car gets washed, water comes right through the center, travels down the A pillar, and it gets the fuse box wet...:facepalm:
Sadly I think a lot of people use FB instead of these forum sites anymore but I refuse to use FB so I guess I'll be here with the last dozen or so people who still use it.

When I had this code on my last TTRS it wasn't anything to do with the PCV system but a sensor that's integrated into the turbo inlet pipe. The sense is part of the pipe itself and not a replaceable item so I had to have the whole pipe replaced which costed like $400 just for the part. I had taken my car to the dealership since there wasn't much info online about the code and they had to wind up calling the RS division in Germany to troubleshoot it. Code never came back after the part was replaced.
 

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Sadly I think a lot of people use FB instead of these forum sites anymore but I refuse to use FB so I guess I'll be here with the last dozen or so people who still use it.

When I had this code on my last TTRS it wasn't anything to do with the PCV system but a sensor that's integrated into the turbo inlet pipe. The sense is part of the pipe itself and not a replaceable item so I had to have the whole pipe replaced which costed like $400 just for the part. I had taken my car to the dealership since there wasn't much info online about the code and they had to wind up calling the RS division in Germany to troubleshoot it. Code never came back after the part was replaced.

Dude, thanks for the reply. I hate FB, and don't have one, nor ever plan on getting one. Big effing stupid waste of time. I've got things to do!

I ended up pulling off the black cap on the top of the cover, where the silicone diaphragm and spring assembly lives, and it all looked great in there, minus a slight bit of build up. With the cover off, I can see there is another valve inside of it, but cant access it because the cover has an inside panel that is glued to it. I was thinking about soaking it over night in ATF, or seafoam, or something, but if a diaphragm internally inside , then soaking it obviously wont help. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on another valve cover, but Id like to not spend the $500 if I can help. it, on something that's not the exact problem. Do you remember the exact tube? I have looked at the system, and was looking for a sensor, but I cant seem to find anything in the intake tubing at all.
 

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Dude, thanks for the reply. I hate FB, and don't have one, nor ever plan on getting one. Big effing stupid waste of time. I've got things to do!

I ended up pulling off the black cap on the top of the cover, where the silicone diaphragm and spring assembly lives, and it all looked great in there, minus a slight bit of build up. With the cover off, I can see there is another valve inside of it, but cant access it because the cover has an inside panel that is glued to it. I was thinking about soaking it over night in ATF, or seafoam, or something, but if a diaphragm internally inside , then soaking it obviously wont help. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on another valve cover, but Id like to not spend the $500 if I can help. it, on something that's not the exact problem. Do you remember the exact tube? I have looked at the system, and was looking for a sensor, but I cant seem to find anything in the intake tubing at all.
Always good to follow up... I did soak that stinkin valve cover over night, with mineral spirits and sea foam. Which worked well for removing contaminants in the cover. However, I kept getting debris out of the cover. I feared it would continue to come out as the car ran, so I flushed it with engine degreaser, flushed it with water and still didn't trust the damn thing. Whats $500 if it ruins the motor?! Ordered the cover, only one, from Canada, took 2 weeks to get it... Installed the new cover along with new spark plugs gapped to 24 I think. New R8 coil packs and a new fuel filter. Finally was able to get the car to pass emissions, however after 200 miles here comes the P2293 code for low fuel pressure. I have replaced both high and low pressure switches on the fuel rail, replaced the filter, pulled the HPFP off and the cam lobe, following puck and all parts look fine.

The cover was no biggie, but a helpful hint, the cover slides out at a silly convoluted angle. If you loosen the bolts all the way, cut cotton swabs in half, and wedge them under the heads of the bolts to keep them held up. You can also completely pull the bolts out of the cover, but they are a bugger to get out.

This guy has a decent write up with pictures. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=995705

One last thing to keep in mind, there is some sort of metal in the shape of a small bridge, that is bolted to the back of the cover. It keeps the rear breather tube bolted to the back of the cover. It connects 2 grounds. I have no clue why there is this stupid bridge thing, but I made sure to scrape it really clean, make sure there was no corrosion, and used fresh die electric grease on all parts of the wire eyelit connections.

Made a post already about the P2239, but thats just where we sit now.
 

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Always good to follow up... I did soak that stinkin valve cover over night, with mineral spirits and sea foam. Which worked well for removing contaminants in the cover. However, I kept getting debris out of the cover. I feared it would continue to come out as the car ran, so I flushed it with engine degreaser, flushed it with water and still didn't trust the damn thing. Whats $500 if it ruins the motor?! Ordered the cover, only one, from Canada, took 2 weeks to get it... Installed the new cover along with new spark plugs gapped to 24 I think. New R8 coil packs and a new fuel filter. Finally was able to get the car to pass emissions, however after 200 miles here comes the P2293 code for low fuel pressure. I have replaced both high and low pressure switches on the fuel rail, replaced the filter, pulled the HPFP off and the cam lobe, following puck and all parts look fine.

The cover was no biggie, but a helpful hint, the cover slides out at a silly convoluted angle. If you loosen the bolts all the way, cut cotton swabs in half, and wedge them under the heads of the bolts to keep them held up. You can also completely pull the bolts out of the cover, but they are a bugger to get out.

This guy has a decent write up with pictures. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=995705

One last thing to keep in mind, there is some sort of metal in the shape of a small bridge, that is bolted to the back of the cover. It keeps the rear breather tube bolted to the back of the cover. It connects 2 grounds. I have no clue why there is this stupid bridge thing, but I made sure to scrape it really clean, make sure there was no corrosion, and used fresh die electric grease on all parts of the wire eyelit connections.

Made a post already about the P2239, but thats just where we sit now.
It sounds like you've done quite a bit of work on your end. Did you manage to get rid of the original P04DB code through all of this?
 

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It sounds like you've done quite a bit of work on your end. Did you manage to get rid of the original P04DB code through all of this?
I've made it 500 miles without getting any PCV related codes or check engine lights. There are a lot of baffles, and internal check valves, and some swirl box assembly inside, and I really don't think you will ever be able to get it actually clean / or fix the problem. Also a valve cover seal would be next to impossible, without seeing a major leak. If anyone needs a new gasket, PM me with your address, I'll send you mine for free if you pay the shipping :beer:
 

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Just replaced the valve cover with a brand new one and the damn code is still coming back after I clear it (not causing a CEL yet but still storing a fault code). Getting super frustrated with this one. Almost seems like something electrical somewhere is tripping this code and not anything to do with the valve cover/PCV system. Don't really want to take this to the dealer but I need to pass emissions soon and I have a feeling the CEL is going to keep coming back.
 

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Just replaced the valve cover with a brand new one and the damn code is still coming back after I clear it (not causing a CEL yet but still storing a fault code). Getting super frustrated with this one. Almost seems like something electrical somewhere is tripping this code and not anything to do with the valve cover/PCV system. Don't really want to take this to the dealer but I need to pass emissions soon and I have a feeling the CEL is going to keep coming back.
I had mine checked out at the dealer after reading several threads all with different results of what was causing the issue thinking I could save money not having to get the cover or anything else. sucked having to pay the fee for diagnosis but it just end up having some ground terminals cleaned which is what someone else had done before as well. Been good ever since. I don't know which ones they were but maybe it'll be enough to point you in the right direction since you think it could be electrical.
 
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