OEM is IHI and they'll fail quick (seems 60-100k for the OEM turbos on these cars) again due to the poor wastegate actuator rod design. Go with a Borg Warner replacement for similar money and get an upgrade WG design. Some people report that it sounds a little different.

Here's a source: https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Tiguan_2-FWD-2.0T/Engine/Turbocharger/OE/

 

The turbocharger was originally manufactured by IHI. The Achille's Heel of the IHI turbocharger is the wastegate flapper. The rebuilt ones will have that part replaced, and likely a have new bearings and whatever else is worn. They can be fairly inexpensive, but I have no experience with them. New ones run about $900 from ECS Tuning.

Borg Warner also makes a replacement that several of the shops that I work with swear by. Word is that they were quite miffed when IHI got the contract for these engines, and they made sure that their version was superior to the IHI turbo. FCP Euro has them for $1100 or so with a lifetime warranty. If it were me, that is probably the route that I would go if I wanted a long term stock solution.

For whatever turbo you get, you will need some installation parts, including five turbo to head nuts, misc. crush washers and O rings for the oil and coolant lines, a return line gasket, a turbo to head gasket (basically an exhaust manifold gasket), a turbo to downpipe gasket, four studs and nuts for the downpipe to turbo. Some of the supplier have a "turbo installation kit" with those parts as a set. Yes, I just did this job a few weeks ago, so it is pretty fresh in my mind. Oh, and book time is 5.8 hours. That is about what it took me with lunch mixed in.

 

you in a PZEV state? should be covered 15years or 150k miles.

 

A lot of DIYers know more than me here but my buddy with the same code PO299 turns out he only needed a new wastegate on the turbo. Are you 100% you are satisfied with the inspection you got?

If it still works but it’s throwing the code may
not be pooched entirely.

Just a thought


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I bet that the issue IS that the waste gate flapper bushing and shaft are worn. These are not separate, easily replaceable parts, but parts that are pressed and welded on the hot side housing. There are companies that offer the parts to repair this, but it is not an easy DIY job and I don't know of any shop that would do it. To replace the waste gate flapper assembly, you first need to disconnect the actuator, then grind off the arm, remove the flapper, remove the bushing (drill or machine), press in the new bushing (likely need to heat the hot side), then precisely locate the arm and weld it on. Note that the actuator rod is not adjustable on these, so you must get it precisely located or you will have over or under boost issues. Hmmm...

I would guess you would have $300 and a few days into getting the old turbo repaired, then you would still have the old center section and likely old diverter valve. Replace those and you are at another $350 or so, assuming that you don't have any cracks in the hot side, which would mean it is pretty much (more) junk. Go through all of that and you still have a turbo with no warranty built from parts. Maybe that makes sense for some, but for most people they are better off just paying a bit more, getting a new, updated turbo with a warranty and be done with it. Considering that it takes six hours of labor and more parts to do the turbo swap, I really don't think the risk of "repairing" the turbo is worth it. YMMV.

 

Just picked up our '12 from the shop, literally 2 hours ago. Started with P0299 while enroute to Virginia. Checked codes saw "underboost" and kept driving for another 600 miles. Dealer replaced the"recirculating valve." Picked it up, drove it 5 miles, got a "EPC" followed by CEL. Returned to shop immediately. After two days "found an oil leak in turbo." That all started 4 weeks ago. So today found they replaced that "valve", replaced the turbo, then found low pressure from fuel pump. High side read 112# when "should read at least 500#." Thank goodness when we bought it last April we bought the extended warranty. Total tab over $3K. My bill $100.

According to the invoice the turbo part number is 06J-145-722-BX EXMANTURBO List Price $1277.14. Hours for turbo 6.1, for fuel pump 2.5 hours.

Now, my question is, do we keep it and hope turbo is good for another 80K, or do we sell? This is our first VW, have been mainly a Subaru driver for the past 20 years so don't have a good feel for VW and it's reliability.

Opinions welcome

 

If you're going to buy a new turbo, just get yourself a k04. Its barely more money and you'll love the performance enhancements.. especially if you plan to mod.

 

I had this exact problem on a 2012 VW Tiguan. I replaced it with a Frankenturbo F23T. I have been running the turbo for 3 years without problem. It has an APR K04 tune on it. Frankenturbo warrants their unit for two years and will rebuild it for $500 when the CHRA goes out.

It's much noisier than the factory unit so be prepared for that. I changed the exhaust to 2.5" and eliminated the turbo muffler so that probably contributed.

 

I had def. considered a Frankenturbo.. how do you like it???

 

This is literally what I made an account for. I have a '13 Tig with 116k miles. Turbo is bad. I'm a dyi'er and I just wanted to see what and where I can buy a replacement turbo. Thanks!

 

I have a stock OEM turbo that came off my 2017 tiguan with only 11K miles on it. PM me if you're interested..

 

Get a k04 from ECS tuning.

 

Not trying to get anyone’s nose out of joint but I came across this article in relation to the K04 & thought I should share it, true or not, at least any upgraders may want to keep an eye on the aspects mentioned in this article.

“The APR kit is configured around a set of OEM fuel injectors which are running flat out at 100% duty cycle
The rail pressure valve has been replaced with an aftermarket one manipulated to deliver 155 bar rail pressure
The APR ignition map runs -4 to +4 degrees of ignition.
Steve's Golf R exhibited the following issues:
A new cam follower had already lost its coating (after less than 5000 miles) and become indented from trying to push an additional 15 bar beyond the factory accepted performance augmented RS4 configuration”

Full article:

https://www.hpamotorsports.com/blog/HPA-Helps-APR-Stage-3-Owners-Find-34-50HP-40ftlbs-TQ/

 

Doesn't apply to the tiguans.

Only FSI motors like in the mk6 Golf R. I use to have a mk2 Audi TT-s, which was exactly the same platform and motor as the Golf R. I would change the cam follower every oil change because it was so easy to do and super cheap.

Not only is your link about a golf R, it's a stage 3 golf r.

 

I never bothered with a HPFP upgrade on my old FSI Passat, for that reason. Stiffer spring puts more pressure on the cam follower, so it wears quicker. Iirc APR recommended inspect and replace (if needed) every 10,000 miles. If you removed the follower, might as well put a new one in.

I was more than happy to replace the follower every 40,000 miles on the stock pump

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^agreed, very different motors and modifications.

 

FWIW, I just got myself a mk6 Golf R that had a timing belt roller fail (original - ack!) at 145k miles turning everything inside the head (valves, rockers, guides and cams) to scrap. These engines (CRZA code, EA113 architecture, MED9.1 engine management) are much different than the engine in the Tiguan (CCTA code, EA888 architecture, MED 17.1 engine management). Virtually the entire engine and fuel injection system was updated, with the engines sharing only the bore spacing, bore and stroke. While they look similar, only a few parts are interchangeable, like valves. Unfortunately for me, the expensive Mahle Motorsports pistons and rods that I bought for a EA888 engine won't work in my Golf R, but the Ferrea valves and stiffer springs will. I have gone through eight EA888s, and two EA113s, so I have had both down to bare blocks. The EA888 looks like it should be superior to the EA113 in almost every way, but while some updates were definite improvements, others didn't quite work, like the chain and oiling systems.

One component that you can use from the higher output Golf R/TTS engine with some modification is the K04 turbo. Other than the higher flow capability of the 3K Warner K04-064 turbo, they also don't seem to suffer from the wear of the waste gate flap linkage as on the IHI RF5 turbos used on our Tiguans. That means the K04s (and other 3K Warner turbos for that matter) last a lot longer. The original turbo on my Golf R has no appreciable wear with eight years and 145k miles running APR stage 2+ software its whole life.

So, if you want a replacement turbo that will last, I personally would go with a 3K Warner stock replacement K03 or a modified K04-064. There are basically two modifications that need to be done to put a K04-064 on a Tiguan CCTA engine. First, the K04-064 does not have an integral diverter valve, so you either use a remote mounted diverter valve like on the Golf R or TTS or buy a turbo that has been modified to add the integral diverter valve, like the ones sold by APR. The other modification is to remove the "turbo muffler" as it interferes with the block on the EA888 engine. APR machines the cold side housing to remove the muffler and adds a machined adapter that bolts on and uses a silicone hose to adapt it to the charge pipes. I have one of these turbos, and it is virtually a bolt-on.

The cheap way to go with a K04 is to get one of the Chinese K04-064 turbos ($400), get a diverter valve relocation kit, cut the turbo muffler off and weld on an section of appropriately sized aluminum tube with bead rolled on and a silicone adapter to the rest of the charge piping. While I can't comment on quality, I have seen it done on a mk6 GTI (same engine as the Tiguans) and it seemed to work well with over 350hp at the wheels. Rumor has it that this is what one of the big tuners (not APR) is selling as their modified turbos. YMMV...

The big issue right now is the availability of turbos. Apparently 3K Warner has backordered the K04-064s right now. I wanted to get a modified turbo from TTE or LOBA Motorsports in Germany, but neither can get turbos right now.

 

Just ask the right questions.. the people on this forum WILL have the right answers to everything, believe me.