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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Definite guide to solving turn signal problem:

My turn signal relay clicking and stuttering randomly. When turn or warning signal used it operates normally with absolutely no problem and sounds healthy. But when not used and supposed to be quite - it goes again. When stuttering - there is absolutely no indication other than clicking sound that something is wrong.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 

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Never seen it myself, but on the forums the problem appears with reasonable frequency. Replacing the switch/relay fixes it more often than not, and it's a $30 part and five minutes. Beyond that, the turn signal switch in the steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Definite guide to solving turn signal problem:

Blinker fixed.

In addition to Passat it also applicable to Jetta and probably other models.

Actually, blinker problem is combination of multiple problems overlooked by VW engineers, ignored components application notes and just generally bad practices.

In essence: you have to fix or replace one or both, hazard switch and turn signal switch.

Symptoms: there actually two different, thou they are may interact. This is why there are conflicting reports that for some hazard switch solved the problem and for some - only turn signal switch.

First symptom: stuttering - rapid switching, stuttering or buzzing relay inside hazard switch.
Second: random activation of the turn relay at double blinking frequency without actually blinking. This probably can be replicated by moving turn signal switch slowly into intermediate positions.

What is the problem:
1. Baked, carbonized, unwashed flux residue on hazard switch PCB. Ignorance of IC application notes.
2. Copper dust shaved of turn switch mixed with contact protecting grease and shorting gaps inside turn switch.


Solution:
1. Replace or repair hazard switch. Less than $20 shipped. You don't have to replace it, just take it apart and carefully clean all brown residue from both sides of PCB. Just to be absolutely sure I also replaced timing cap. Original one is aluminum, 4.7uFx100V. I put tantalum 4.7x25.
Don't try to pry hazard switch out of the panel with flat screwdriver. You will leave marks on front panel. Remove blank cover under seat heater control first, pick heater control from behind and push it out (with tool or finger), now do the same to haz. switch.

2. To restore turn signal switch properly you have to take switch off the steering column. You have to remove steering wheel with airbag for that. (You may try to fix it simpler way, later about that.) There are many guides about steering wheel removal. Once turn signal removed and separated from wiper switch, unscrew two screws and unlatch four tabs that holding switch together. It won't fly apart, but it won't crack open easily. Once inside you will see contact grease looking like fresh pink copper paste bridging gaps inside switch. Wipe it off and if prefer, apply fresh grease (I didn't). It appeared to me that brushes/moving contacts inside switch pressed pretty hard against copper tracks thus producing excessive copper dust. With contact grease used in does not require such pressure to keep it clean from oxidation, or, if grease not used there is enough pressure to keep contacts self cleaning.
OK, simpler way. I did not do it, but after I've done it I would try it first: do not take switch or steering wheel off the column. Just unscrew and open upper column cover. Disconnect main cable from turn switch and cruise control cable that connects vertically to flex circuit connector. You must unsnap flex circuit connector off the turn signal assembly (connector will hang only by the flex circuit cable, so be careful). Removing cruise control connector will expose MORE holes, holes relevant to turn switch shorts.
Now, you can use pressurized air or contact cleaner to break away shorting grease bridges. It's OK if they getting stuck anywhere else inside, as long as bridges are unsorted.
Now test and put all back together.

Application note ignored by VW:
www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc4726.pdf"
"4.7Pin 8, Start Input
Humidity and dirt may decrease the resistance between 49 a and GND. "

Pin 8 should not be left floating. High impedance input easily dragged low tripping relay.


I can post pictures if forum admin allow me to attach them.



I hope this will help somebody and save some headache and money.
VW quoted me $110 to troubleshoot and switch and relay replacement would be over $300, with parts and: labor bill would run over $500.

Cheers y'all!
 

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go to walmart and get some electronic cleaner spray! its only 5 dollars! turn the car off and spray a quick burst on the bottom and top off the turn signal lever where it goes into the steering column! wait a couple of minutes to dry and it should fix the problem! i had the same problem and bought a new hazard relay, didint work! i ordered a new signal lever and never had time to change it! i did that and it hasnt came back! i havent had problems since!
 

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go to walmart and get some electronic cleaner spray! its only 5 dollars! turn the car off and spray a quick burst on the bottom and top off the turn signal lever where it goes into the steering column! wait a couple of minutes to dry and it should fix the problem! i had the same problem and bought a new hazard relay, didint work! i ordered a new signal lever and never had time to change it! i did that and it hasnt came back! i havent had problems since!

I second this. I did the same. Actually used wd40 though and I have not heard it since. Been a year.
 

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I have had to replace the hazard switch/relay unit once, but no problems yet w/ the TS switch.

I did burn out the contacts on the stalk-mounted headlight switch on my 1996 Audi A4 -- solution was to jumper the parking light and main headlight feeds at the fuse panel. I no longer have a separate parking light position on the switch, but this was a cheap and easy solution. I may try spraying the switch w/ contact cleaner -- good suggestion.
 

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this is exactly what i needed to hear!! my switch just started having this same problem and was driving me crazy!! will try the electric cleaner option first and let you know how it works...

Thanks
So...did it work? :confused:
 

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So I finally got around to spraying electrical contact cleaner around the stalk base. Not a lot and I let it dry for several minutes as I didn't want to take a chance at throwing a spark and having to explain why the wife's car suddenly became higher in carbon than plastic... Anyway, it works, and instantly. It's been over a week and not even one errant clickity-click-click! Yeay :thumbup:
 
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