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Can you elaborate more on this please?
From what I compared:

APR (91 octane)
239hp/277lb-ft
APR 93
245/290

Unitronic (91 octane)
227hp/290lb-ft
Unitronic 93
249/304

HP always gets more attention as it seems to be the only number people care about because it most directly relates to speed. Torque on the other hand is how hard it has to work to get that power. APR is only 12hp more in this case but Uni is 13 more torque so one might be better than the other in two different scenarios. Up a hill for example, or in lower RPMs the higher torque wins. Thats why the Tiguan (after some of the recent throttle issue fixes) feels good in the city, but lacks when passing. Compare the Tig to most other cars in its class and I would say it rivals most in get up and go and shooting around town due to the typically higher torque numbers. But this isn't a really scientific answer, there are a ton of videos and other websites that try and explain the differences and benefits, etc. At the end of the day the APR tune is not going to be faster than the Unitronic in our car with the crappy gearbox we have. The margin is likely too small to measure. Both companies are reputable, and do their testing so its whatever works best for you. I for one like to have control and do my own programming, etc so I like Unitronic (and I'm biased because they're Canadian), and the shop I like to frequent is a partner.

I think if you can get Race Gas then APR for the win, they have a map that gets you 263hp and 311lb/ft.....can't find that so easily where I live so again, Unitronic is best for me.
 

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From what I compared:

APR (91 octane)
239hp/277lb-ft
APR 93
245/290

Unitronic (91 octane)
227hp/290lb-ft
Unitronic 93
249/304

HP always gets more attention as it seems to be the only number people care about because it most directly relates to speed. Torque on the other hand is how hard it has to work to get that power. APR is only 12hp more in this case but Uni is 13 more torque so one might be better than the other in two different scenarios. Up a hill for example, or in lower RPMs the higher torque wins. Thats why the Tiguan (after some of the recent throttle issue fixes) feels good in the city, but lacks when passing. Compare the Tig to most other cars in its class and I would say it rivals most in get up and go and shooting around town due to the typically higher torque numbers. But this isn't a really scientific answer, there are a ton of videos and other websites that try and explain the differences and benefits, etc. At the end of the day the APR tune is not going to be faster than the Unitronic in our car with the crappy gearbox we have. The margin is likely too small to measure. Both companies are reputable, and do their testing so its whatever works best for you. I for one like to have control and do my own programming, etc so I like Unitronic (and I'm biased because they're Canadian), and the shop I like to frequent is a partner.

I think if you can get Race Gas then APR for the win, they have a map that gets you 263hp and 311lb/ft.....can't find that so easily where I live so again, Unitronic is best for me.
Thank you. I feel the Tig is lacking in the critical range between 50-70mph and hoping this is where the extra torque will be beneficial. I’m in a similar situation as you and don’t have easy access to better fuel. I also don’t have a dealer close by and like the convenience of being able to do the flash myself.
 

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Something that will weigh heavily in my decision making process, is the prospect of further development for turbo upgrades, et al. I'm not claiming to be in possession of all the facts, but from what information I have been able to gather, Uni seems to be the leader in this regard.

Just some food for thought to anyone considering taking things beyond Stage 1.
 

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I have the Unitronic Stage 1+ and am glad I went this route. For background I have had 3 previous VAG vehicles and all had APR tunes. The APR tunes were great however post MK6 you couldn’t switch programs and I had to get a dealer an hour away and pay labor to flash every time I upgraded to higher stages or wanted the upgrade to the most current file. As this is my first Unitronic tune and I have the Uni connect cable looking back I wish I went Uni for the convenience alone and the tune is great to boot. I really appreciate that I can flash to any stage or back to stock at home.


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Thanks for sharing and we're happy to hear you're enjoying our Performance Software!

Yeah, it’s seeming the flash at home is the most important feature for me. The scary part is what if I brick the ECU?
If you follow our directions, and take our recommendations to set yourself up for success, you shouldn't be worried about having issues. That being said, if something does go wrong, nearly all situations are recoverable and we have are absolutely here to support our customers with a team of support staff here available to assist you.

Here is a reply I got from APR. I’m guessing Unitronic tests similarly, but it would be great if someone from Unitronic could confirm.
Of course! We have rigorous development standards and spend the time to thoroughly develop our product to ensure that it's maximizing performance without compromise to reliability and drivability. Our reputation in the market speaks for itself, and couldn't be made possible without our level of expertise in everything that we do.

I'm also contemplating a tune between APR and Uni. I like the power gains of APR but the convenience of tuning myself with Uni.

I primarily run 87 octane in my Tiguan and ultimately that's what is pulling me towards APR as the power difference with an 87 octane tune is substantial (234 APR vs 210 Uni). I think if Uni was able to squeak out another 10-15 in their 87 tune then I'd likely have gone that way.

If you plan on running higher octane fuel regardless, the gap decreases and Uni looks more appealing all things considered.
If it was possible to make higher power or torque without compromise to safety and reliability, you can be certain we'd have seized this opportunity. As mentioned above, our goal is always to obtain maximum performance, without compromise to reliability or drivability. We've developed a product that achieves this, and offers a competitive advantage of being able to tune it yourself from the comfort of your own home or garage with UniConnect+.
 

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I would imagine both Stage 1 tunes are good and will feel very similar.
APR, however, does offer APR+ which comes with a powertrain warranty if you expect to just tune once and = not get an itch for more power. Sort of OEM+.
 

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I echo everything vwtsteve said about the unitronic flash. I took advantage of the ongoing sale and added the cable to my order of the Stage 1+. I ordered everything on Saturday and did the install myself yesterday. By doing the flash myself, I also appreciated the quality of the install app - def a confidence booster to see a professional app designed by the same company that made the flash.

My impression after 24hrs of driving - I finally feel like my 2020 SELP R-line is worthy of the R-line badge. It's kind of a poser without. Driving in "D" hasn't changed much, but switching to "S" is where you feel the difference in how the car continues to pull through the gears. Which brings me to my final point. The Tiguan's D feels like other manufacture's "eco" mode. I've owned other VWs and switching the trans to S simply moved the gear shifting points higher in the RPMs. I generally left these cars in D. In the Tiguan, it feels like switching to D pretty much shuts down any turbo boost. Even at higher RPMs in D, there is some serious turbo lag that doesn't exist in S. I'm curious if anyone has dyno tested both settings and if 0-60 times are typically done in S or D.

Oh yeah, I did the 24GB update two weeks ago and no issues with the flash.
I tell you something important. I'm here to learn if Uni is worth it, seems like it is, but here is my info. BMS Pedal Tuner, the APR states it also tunes how pedal behaves, so I'm hesitant about getting Uni.
So now I have Neuspeed module, didn't do much, usually kicks in after 3.5k, then I added BMS pedal tuner, because it was so annoying to press pedal half way to get any downshift, what BMS does it's digital thing, so it's not only cheating the ECU that you pressed more than you pressed it tells the ECU something more I don't know what but it works.
So I had it in Green mode long time, felt too agressive, so trimmed down by 2 lights (if you find BMS Tuner video you'll know what I mean) then after like 3-4 mo, I started to play with it. I disabled it (White mode) and car felt more like stock despite Neuspeed. Then I'm thinking fu.. it, lets try Orange mode (the mid level). Maaaannn this thing feels like calibated with Neuspeed, the throte response is instant, the car has more power, star from rolling stop is better, and you can feel the linear acceleration/engine rev to how deep you preas without any lag.

I think I'm going to get Uni because of ability to revert to stock (for dealer visits) but I'll keep BMS, I'll try without BMS first to know how it works, then I'll work with Green and Orange. If you claim D mode doesn't feel power with Tune, I feel power with cheat box NeuSpeed with BMS, then you should get BMS tuner [I don't have reputation to post links] got to burger tuning com and find "BMS Pedal Tuner"
 

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I’m interested in the tune, but wondering if there are any worries about the AQ450 taking the extra 90 ft-lbs on the stage 1+ tune?
It will be fine:

Same exact transmission is used in VW Atlas 3.6L 276 hp 266 lb-ft.

It holds APR E85 Tune which is 263 HP 311 FT-LBS

The ECU also applies torque limiter in 1st gear

From VW specs PDF sheet

Manufacturer AISIN AW CO., LTD. Japan
Transmission code AQ 450 (There are variances in the 09P transmission configurations depending on vehicle models.)
Transmission features 8-speed automatic transmission with single Lepelletier planetary gear set
Maximum torque 450 Nm (332 lb/ft)
ATF specification for transmission fluid G 055 540 A2 - always check service information for the correct fluid
Filling quantity gear oil 7.65 liters (8.0 qt) at a change interval of 200,000 km (125,000 miles) - always check maintenance
information for the correct volume and replacement interval
Filling quantity bevel box 0.86 (0.9 qt) liters lifetime filling
 

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I echo everything vwtsteve said about the unitronic flash. I took advantage of the ongoing sale and added the cable to my order of the Stage 1+. I ordered everything on Saturday and did the install myself yesterday. By doing the flash myself, I also appreciated the quality of the install app - def a confidence booster to see a professional app designed by the same company that made the flash.

My impression after 24hrs of driving - I finally feel like my 2020 SELP R-line is worthy of the R-line badge. It's kind of a poser without. Driving in "D" hasn't changed much, but switching to "S" is where you feel the difference in how the car continues to pull through the gears. Which brings me to my final point. The Tiguan's D feels like other manufacture's "eco" mode. I've owned other VWs and switching the trans to S simply moved the gear shifting points higher in the RPMs. I generally left these cars in D. In the Tiguan, it feels like switching to D pretty much shuts down any turbo boost. Even at higher RPMs in D, there is some serious turbo lag that doesn't exist in S. I'm curious if anyone has dyno tested both settings and if 0-60 times are typically done in S or D.

Oh yeah, I did the 24GB update two weeks ago and no issues with the flash.
UPDATE: So after I posted my first replay I decided to remove NeuSpeed module since I'm going to maybe to 24GB update... and hear is interesting, I noticed very little power loss, or in other words NeuSpeed is little to none tune and real power and throttle response and linear pedal feel comes from BMS Pedal Tuner. So please, please if you claim that in D mode the care is not aggressive after Unitronic (while mine in stock is) you need to get the BMS, just start with Green mode first, could be enough. ALSO! you need to drive for a while with set mode, because ECU will adjust overtime to "driver behaviour" and since BMS changes the driver behaviour it need some driving to adjust boost and other params, so initiall BMS my feel too aggressive even in green especially because of YOU, you used to press the pedal hard to make normal start from stop sign, with BMS you'll need only little bit press (at least in orange) so set it to green or couple of LED's below, and drive for at least 50 miles, so you and ECU can adjust if still not enough response set it to Orange.
AGAIN I'm talking from stock ECU perspective. Once I'll get Unitronic I'll post an update with my experience (chances are BMS is not needed with Uni, and you are just expecting too much from that car, but I can't tell unless I compare myself)
 

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Is it just me or does the actual idle and general running engine sound better now with the Unitronic tune? I'm not sure how the lobes worked in this thing for economy but the timing must have something to do with it as well. It still doesn't sound as smooth as the Golf R but it doesn't sound like a diesel anymore....its better, unless its just in my head, anyone else notice?
 

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Quick Q:

Has anyone with an '18 tig gotten the 24GB update and reflashed to stg1 or stg1+? Is the hardware revision supported? or not yet?
 

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Quick Q:

Has anyone with an '18 tig gotten the 24GB update and reflashed to stg1 or stg1+? Is the hardware revision supported? or not yet?
Yes, the updated ECU revision is supported with our Performance Software.
 

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Just got the Stg 1+ and a uniconnect from urotuning and loaded it to my '18 with the 0001 hardware version (pre- 24GB update) and I'm absolutely beaming with the improvement in character of this car. I put about 250 miles on the car with the update today.

First, I've had both of the major "man-in-the-middle" boxes, the big one and small one. The small one had a very minor performance improvement but then decided to stop working after causing a mis-fueling event which lit up the famously annoying EPC light and required resetting all injector trims. The big one, caused random stumbles at idle, random misfire codes on all cylinders no matter which default mapping was used. Further, as several other owners mentioned, it seemed to back out of boost in higher rpms, basically negating any benefit. The whole idea was supposed to be a plug-and-play experience (at least in the default mappings), which, if it requires constant tinkering for a minor gain, is not my idea of a fun way to spend a weekend. I could understand if the tweaking stage was to just squeeze the last bit of performance out, but to have it not even idle right and not misfire out of the box is silly.

So, now, on to the real deal.

The uniconnect cable comes in an attractive embossed soft-shell case which has just enough space to fit the Uniconnect and my VCDS cables, which is fantastic. Cable construction is excellent and includes a velcro cable-keeper

The software was easy to install and operate, although I do wish that there was a more clear indication of which software is owned/downloaded/available for loading particularly if one owns more than one vehicle. I think it would also make a lot of sense for there to be a way to pre-download all the available software for a particular VIN/ECM/license onto the laptop so one can then walk out and load it without WiFi. It would be of particular help for those who travel and may need to drop back to a lower octane tune or back to stock. Further, I think it would eliminate a lot of questions and telephone calls if there was a simple way to check Box code / HWver online in a query format. I understand it's difficult for every OEM ECM update to get a tune file rebuild by Unitronic's programmers, but overall, I think it would go a long way to alleviate the fear that one may get an OEM recall/TSB applied and then lose the ability to load a tune because it's either not out yet, or never will be.

Finally, the tune itself. This is what the R-line should have been about from the get-go. The vast gain in torque really helps push the heavy Tiguan along, and the tune carries power through the expanded powerband smoothly, eliminating the high rpm dead-spot that has always driven me crazy when passing. It pairs extremely well with the updated OEM transmission shift strategy in both Normal and Sport driving modes, maintaining fuel economy and giving a really confident pass ability. Overall, the tune is extremely well behaved with a factory smooth idle, and excellent part-throttle behavior with no jerkyness or deadspots. Throttle roll-in is perfectly smooth and thanks to the increased torque, often negates a downshift on up-grades where the OEM tune would already be reaching for the next gear or even two down.

I won't speak to mileage yet, as I was blasting around today with no real regard for fuel consumption. The coming weeks will likely include an edit to include mileage changes as my right foot calms down. 😁
 

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Can you elaborate more on this please?
Remember that torque is a real thing, you can directly measure it with machinery. Horsepower is a derived number of torque and RPMs. So you take two real numers, do some math and get the derived number.
HP = (Torque × RPM)/5252

If you want more torque you generally have to burn more fuel, or make higher intake pressure.
If you want more HP you can increase torque or extend the max torque to a higer RPM.

ex: max torque of 250 at 4000 RPM = 190HP
move that max torque out to 4500 RPM and you get 214HP
The engine isn't putting out more power, but it is doing more work, a fairly minor change makes the numbers look very different. Marketing. :)
 

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John,
Based off this response, “If it was possible to make higher power or torque without compromise to safety and reliability, you can be certain we'd have seized this opportunity. As mentioned above, our goal is always to obtain maximum performance, without compromise to reliability or drivability. We've developed a product that achieves this, and offers a competitive advantage of being able to tune it yourself from the comfort of your own home or garage with UniConnect+,” is one safe to assume you may not be pursuing a stage 2?
 

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Unitronic states that it requires a Windows PC to use their software, but any chance this has worked with a Mac?
People have used Wine, Bootcamp, Parallels with success before on other platforms. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work for these.


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Unitronic states that it requires a Windows PC to use their software, but any chance this has worked with a Mac?
Bootcamp is the most reliable option for using a Mac, but of course a Win PC is the best suggestion I can offer.
 

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Loaded Stage 1 (91) tune today in our 18 SE fwd (that’s why I picked the 91 - because fwd) with the VW ECU update...WOW! Install went flawlessly. Easy to drive and fairly mellow in Normal mode with great low end torque that requires hardly any downshifting when casually accelerating. Around 2000 rpm is a sweet spot. Hills, what hills? When your feeling a little devilish, go to Sport and it really wakes up! Reminds me of my previous MK7 GTI before I went stg 2. I just really wish we had the 7sp DSG - it would be so much smoother. Very happy so far.
 
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