If you have the 3" DP you may as well go stage 2, however, the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 could be the difference between your stock clutch surviving or not surviving so bear that in mind. It is impossible to predict; there are way too many factors that go into that likelihood. It is possible it will hold up to stage 2 for a few years and it is also possible it won't even hold up to stage 1 for a year. It depends on its current condition and other things that you just won't know until you know. But bottom-line: if you are looking to make good power out of the car you'll need to upgrade eventually. It's actually not the clutch disc friction material itself that is not up to the task, it is the weak pressure plate that does not provide enough clamping force for the disc so that is yet another factor in whether your clutch will get burnt up or not. If you pressure plate and slave cylinder/throwout bearing unit are still strong then you should be fine for awhile; if they aren't, your clutch is gonna be toast if you launch or load it up with high gear-low RPM throttle. If you want just about every bit of info you need to consider clutch options then checkout my build thread (link in sig) or ask away.thanks for reply.
Im stock Map at the moment. trying to figure out which Stage 1 to go maybe a stage 2. I already have installed
If you are interested in maximum performance then get rid of this. A DV that has atmospheric release isn't really a DV (DVs recirculate boost). Blow-off valves (BoV) have atmospheric release. While they are an outrageously popular mod to do they are actually not a performance part; they are a noise-maker and nothing more. I will help you understand why:Updated DV with atmospheric release
This is a highly contentious subject because it gets into the realm of the oft-debated "shelf vs. custom tune" area. I will give you my advice which is coming from personal experience in both camps (shelf tuning AND custom tuning/setups). Also, as a professional software engineer and avid researcher when it comes to my car build, you better believe I've delved into every bit of minutiae that these companies would discuss about the tuning parameters, variables, tables, maps, and the software itself. Obviously they aren't gonna tell me any of their trade secrets but the point is that, just by the nature of my profession, I have more insight into the end-user differences that are achieved by shelf tuning vs. custom tuning... and they really aren't that significant. It boils down to this: if you don’t plan to go with a setup that more or less needs custom tuning (e.g. non-standard hardware) then just stick to a shelf tune.which tuner would you recommend?