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Just to get back to you i went and got the exact tee you had and it fit perfectly, the brakes work great and do feel bit more firm, and the engine seems quieter withoit the pump, turns out i didnt strip the bolt, the hex bit i used stripped, a different 5mm hex did the job. The hose i broke looks like its for the seconday air pump but i couldnt get the other end out to replace the hose, i put it back together with some electrical tape and so far so good, just waiting for some time to get it out find the size for the hose and replace it.
 
Contaminants in the booster

Some of you have concerns with oil or other fluids getting into the booster - this is a VACUUM source and supply! The only thing that can enter the booster is brake fluid if your master cylinder blows out so no need to worry about contamination from the engine.
 
Some of you have concerns with oil or other fluids getting into the booster - this is a VACUUM source and supply! The only thing that can enter the booster is brake fluid if your master cylinder blows out so no need to worry about contamination from the engine.
i like your thinking ;)

wait, do you work for Spulen?

search the P0106 threads on here and then tell us again that this is only a vacuum source and supply.
 
I just came on there to say thanks--my vacuum pump was leaking and I blocked it off with the IE plate and rerouted vacuum as described.
No way I am paying 900 for a new, eventually fail OE vacuum pump. Fortunately, manual transmission makes the pump itself a 10 minute swap and blockoff.

What an engineering boondoggle. Is there any data from the people who have been running vacuum like this long term in regards to negative side effects?
 
I just came on there to say thanks--my vacuum pump was leaking and I blocked it off with the IE plate and rerouted vacuum as described.
No way I am paying 900 for a new, eventually fail OE vacuum pump. Fortunately, manual transmission makes the pump itself a 10 minute swap and blockoff.

What an engineering boondoggle. Is there any data from the people who have been running vacuum like this long term in regards to negative side effects?
^^ not exactly sure what you mean by long-term, but mine has been this way for over 30k miles now.

everything is exactly the same.
 
Deleted pump, getting warning lights

Hi. I completed this conversion as described on my son's 2010 Jetta. I am now getting a light for "Electro-mechanical power steering assist reduced" and one for "ESP malfunction or switched off". Any advice?

Thanks,

JP
 
Hi. I completed this conversion as described on my son's 2010 Jetta. I am now getting a light for "Electro-mechanical power steering assist reduced" and one for "ESP malfunction or switched off". Any advice?

Thanks,

JP
Did you disconnect the battery to do the job?

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk
 
All set now

Yes, I did take out the battery to complete the job. I just took it for a longer drive and the warning lights went off. I think I'm all set now.

Big thanks to the OP for the help. I'm really happy with the result.

JP
 
Did you disconnect the battery to do the job?
Yes, I did take out the battery to complete the job. I just took it for a longer drive and the warning lights went off. I think I'm all set now.
Big thanks to the OP for the help. I'm really happy with the result.
JP
Any time you disconnect the battery with an electric steer car, turn the steering wheel fully left to the lock and hold it for about 3 seconds then the same to the right. :thumbup:
 
So, I am getting ready to do the delete this weekend. I am planning to use @le0n's method of going into the tube off the throttle body for the vacuum.

I have the IE blockoff plate. With the spulen kit you replace the intake manifold tube. What is the connector in the factory tube? It looks like there may be some sensor there, or is it something that goes to the vacuum pump? Is it OK to leave the original hose? Do I need to take out the part that is in the factory hose and replace it with a coupler, or just leave it as is?

This is on a 2009 New Beetle convertible with BPS engine code.
 
So, I am getting ready to do the delete this weekend. I am planning to use @le0n's method of going into the tube off the throttle body for the vacuum.

I have the IE blockoff plate. With the spulen kit you replace the intake manifold tube. What is the connector in the factory tube? It looks like there may be some sensor there, or is it something that goes to the vacuum pump? Is it OK to leave the original hose? Do I need to take out the part that is in the factory hose and replace it with a coupler, or just leave it as is?

This is on a 2009 New Beetle convertible with BPS engine code.
NVM. Now that I got the breather box out, I can see I will not do anything with the factory tube. The brake vacuum booster tube is being disconnected from the vacuum pump. I'll just replace the current tube like le0n specified.
 
So i tried your method last night and boy was it a pain to getbthe pump out, one pf the bolts stripped on the plate and im not sure how tight it was but i hopenit dpesnt leak, i want to get a new one but don't know the specs on it, i also got a 3/8 tee all around but the n80 looks like its 1/4 and wont fit. On of the vacuum lines that connects to intake tubbing snapped off too because it was so brittle, it was the one more towards the right, any idea what it goes too?
Just to get back to you i went and got the exact tee you had and it fit perfectly, the brakes work great and do feel bit more firm, and the engine seems quieter withoit the pump, turns out i didnt strip the bolt, the hex bit i used stripped, a different 5mm hex did the job. The hose i broke looks like its for the seconday air pump but i couldnt get the other end out to replace the hose, i put it back together with some electrical tape and so far so good, just waiting for some time to get it out find the size for the hose and replace it.
I am such a freaking amateur!

I am having the same problem Hgarcia described. However, I am using the same universal tee that le0n showed.

For anyone else that used le0n's method, how did you get the N80 tubing over the barb? It looks likehe cut the 1/8 and 1/4 barbs off and used the 3/8 barbs (the largest ones on the universal tee). My N80 goes over the 1/4 barb easily, but I cant get over the 3/8 end.

How did you get it on each end? I can't easily disconnect the N80 tube to twist either end.

Thanks!
 
thought I'd add my 2cents.

Had the delete kit from Spulen installed for a few years now, noticed that the hose gets soaked with oil and started to sweat through and the brake pedal would feel kinda weird until warmed up.

So recently I switched over to the method in this thread where you tap the N80 line, so far it's working fine and I notice the brake pedal feels more consistent. will update once I put more miles on.



The delete kit works as they intend, but it's not a good long term solution, the silicon hose will start to weaken and get soft.
the block off plate holds up, I have the original thin plate design and it's fine, just the hose is having issues.
 
I recently replaced my vacuum pump with an IE block-off plate and used le0n's method. I was going to the use the capped nipped on the passenger side of my intake manifold, but this was a more direct route and given his success with it, I figured may as well. :thumbup::cool:
 
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