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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been plagued with coolant issues on both C's ever since I've had them. If it's not one thing it's another

First I start blowing hoses, so I buy a samco kit. Then I spring a leak in the water pump, replaced it. After run pump is full of coolant, replaced it. radiator springs a leak, replaced it. The plastic tube cracks, replaced it. The plastic thermostat cover cracks, replaced it. Blew the heater core, have it bypassed and just got the core in today to replace it. Coolant over flow tank ruptures, replaced it. I have gone through 3 caps, 3 oil coolers and still have problems.
The wiring harness was gotten wet so much it it totally corroded and the after run pump still wont work. Neither does water temp even with a new sensor. I still have the coolant boiling out when I either run it over 75 for a while or at high revs.

Is the VR engineered with such a crappy cooling system? Or am I just missing something?
If I keep on having continual problems I will have to resort to totally re-engineering the whole cooling system. This time not using any of that [email protected] plastic that VW loves to use.
I was thinking of a whole totally alloy radiator, new oil cooler system and the deletion of a few lines, just for starters.
Give me some ideas and feed back about all this. PLEASE!!!
 

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Re: VR6 Coolant problems... Anybody else have problems? (gurooo)

have you gotten the cooling system(ie. fan control module, heater core) replaced under the recall? They also replace some hose because the original cooling system sucks a**. Mine was overheating when i first got it and the fan would only work on the highest setting , until i found out about the recall, got it done all for free and have had no problems since
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: VR6 Coolant problems... Anybody else have problems? (gurooo)

High coolant temps usually leads to blowing your heatercore but not in all cases.
I blew my heatercore at the start line at the dragstrip during the summer
...what a day that was. Anyhow, I wasn't running a thermostat then, so I figured since my coolant temps were at about 220F, that was what led to the heatercore problem. I then thought, what if my headgasket goes next?...but after tearing the motor apart in November, I found that my headgasket was perfect...and looked brand new, despite discoloration obviously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: VR6 Coolant problems... Anybody else have problems? (vdubjb)

Quote, originally posted by vdubjb »
How's your headgasket?

Well, I have known that at least two cylinders are really low on compression and I have as much power as a honda

I am working with GSB right now to do a super head for me so I hope that will fix it!

I've been afraid to take the care into the stealership for warranty because 1) I have an aftermarket hose kit 2) I know that they will take forever 3)Most mechanics that work at them are chimps. (if I'm gonna have a monkey work on my car I'd rather it be me
)
 

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Re: VR6 Coolant problems... Anybody else have problems? (gurooo)

If you replaced, thermostat/housing, rad, cap, overflow tank, hose, heater core,waterpump/afterun; you have replaced the entire cooling system. You better push it to GSB, lol.
 

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Re: VR6 Coolant problems... Anybody else have problems? (gurooo)

If your temps have gotten hot enough you may have warped your head slightly, that could be why you have crappy compression in 2 cylinders or your headgasket could be shot.
 

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Mine was the same.
the headgasket was dying and the head was corroded through years of abuse from running the wrong coolant (not by me might I add).
 

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Re: (phatvr6)

i failed to see you changing the thermo switch in the rad, you said you changed A coolant switch, which one? one in the housing??
also these things didnt all happen to fall apart at once....you had a **** load of pressure in there...so you started to blow a hose or 3, the pressure is still there, so it finally blew the water pump, and then the electric water pump...changed those, but the pressure is still there...so it blew out the weakened heater core.
instead of replacing the parts that were broken, fix the original problem of why theres so much pressure...
one cause could be the headgasket
another could be all those times you emptied the coolant system, it was never bled right of air pockets, which will cause the bottle to overflow almost immediately
 

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Re: (BLUE NRG)

hey renzo, how would you suggest properly bleeding the system?
i've always been under the impression that you would just run the car cold with the cap off, until the thermostat opens, let it run a little longer and then cap it off. not very scientific but i suppose it would work.
any tips as to how the dealer would do it? thanks in advance
-danny
 

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Re: (CageyBee)

My water pump and heater core went out at around the same time.
I had VW replace my heater core (under warranty).
Did the water pump with a friend.
Everything works fine now.

You running G-12?
 

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Re: (CageyBee)

Quote, originally posted by CageyBee »
hey renzo, how would you suggest properly bleeding the system?
i've always been under the impression that you would just run the car cold with the cap off, until the thermostat opens, let it run a little longer and then cap it off. not very scientific but i suppose it would work.
any tips as to how the dealer would do it? thanks in advance
-danny

well the dealer got this new tool about a year ago, it sort of works similar to recharging the AC system
you hook up this thing to the coolant bottle, and using the air hose, you create a total vacuum in the coolant system. you connect another hose to a tank filled with coolant....you open the valve, and the coolant rushes in to the system, guaranteed no air pockets.
now the way ive done it for my own car, is run the car with the cap off...rev and hold the motor at about 3k rpms, and have the heater on, once you feel the usual A2/corrado toasty heat coming through the vents you know you have coolant running through the heater core eliminating the air pockets in that. then i cap the bottle and let the car run occasionally hold it at like 2300 rpms, til the fans come on and the lower rad hose is hot....i drive it around for a bit...it should be good, but to be certain let the car cool down and let it go through the cycle of heating up
 

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Re: (BLUE NRG)

hey renzo, i missed your post. but thanks for letting me know how the pro's do it.
i def. appreciate it!
thanks!
-danny
 

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Re: (CageyBee)

What ever happened to just having a pressure cap on the rad?

I don't know why VW went to the totally closed system after the Mk1's. It was so easy to full the cooling system when you have a cap.
Is there any advantage to having a closed system I curious?
 
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