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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1986 Mk3 Vr6 Cabriolet

OK, I have the perfect 86 cabby for the project, and a 96 jetta GLX for the transplant.

What do i need to take off of the jetta , other than the engine, tranny and electrical before i sell it for parts?

Thanks
 

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Start HERE...


Mike
 

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What do i need to take off of the jetta , other than the engine, tranny and electrical before i sell it for parts?

Thanks
I am doing a similar swap (Vr6 in a Mk1 Chasis). I would recommend keeping the wiring harness, ecu, fuse box, guage cluster, and the fuel pump. It really depends on what you look to do with your swap, some people do a dash swap, 5 lug conversion, etc.

Hope to hear more about your swap.

:beer:

Edit:
This is the site where I am sourcing most of my swap parts from:
http://store.euro-wise.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Kit from eurowise came today. Pulled the old 1.8 last night. Will do some cleaning under the hood this morning and then the fun begins. Will be posting pictures soon.
 

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Kit from eurowise came today. Pulled the old 1.8 last night. Will do some cleaning under the hood this morning and then the fun begins. Will be posting pictures soon.
Nice! my eurowise kits came today, I still haven't pulled anything out of the donor car yet though. This weekend I will start pulling things out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well, what a month. Sorry for the lack of updates, but 50+ hours a week at your job can slow you down. As promised......pictures!!!!!




The start:

At this point it was a matter of getting everything disconnected from the original engine. Electrical, fuel, cooling, A/C, motor mounts, etc.

Never cut ANYTHING to remove it, you never know what you will need later on.




Getting into things:

This 1.8 is a tight fit, if you have a lift.....use it. Pulling the engine from the top is much more difficult, but can be done with time.



Putting up a fuss:

At this point, everything was disconnected, but the engine still had enough grip to almost lift the front of the car off of the ground.

Another important thing is that you cannot lift the engine straight up. It must be done on a diagonal so the transmission can slide out.



Success!!!

At this point, I had no need for the old 1.8, but I hated to just scrap a good running engine. So I put everything I didn't need (engine, transmission, radiators, linkages, etc., on craigslist. Sure enough, an older gentleman came and picked them up, Telling me that he had a Mk1 rabbit sitting around his yard that he need an engine for. He also told me that this motor prevented him from taking it to the scrap yard. I like to think that I saved a life. :)



The old gauge cluster:

I know that there are ways to hook these up to work with the Mk3 electrics, but it was iffy and expensive to boot. And because I had the gauge cluster from the donor car with the correct millage, I figured why not try to fit it.



The new...

After being in the accident, the cluster was acting funny when I hooked it up. After opening it up, I found about 30 solder points were broken :vampire:

About 30 minutes with the soldering iron and it was back to new.




The result:

Believe it or not, it fit with very little modification to the dash. You cannot tell that anything is cut or drilled. It almost looks factory:laugh:

The only thing is that it is slightly wider than the old one, so you cannot see the temp gauge from cold to about 100 degrees, and the gas gauge from full to about 7/8 full. Everything else is visible. I also wired the factory Mk1 light switch and dash light control to work with the Mk3 dash.




Running on hopes and dreams:

Well, not really. The VR6 is sitting just out of this picture:D

Now is a good time to degrease and inspect, install, remove anything you want form in here. Once the VR6 is in, it gets kinda tight.



Why i bought the car:

Rock solid. Factory seam seal and paint. It was nice that I did not have to cut and weld anything in to help support the new heart. From what I have seen and read, finding a Mk1 this solid it getting harder to find.




One VR6 coming up!!!

And one pain the a$$ to put in!!!! Because this was my first swap, I was excited and was trying to rush things. To go further, I didn't inspect the engine close enough before putting it in. Had I done so, I would have realized that it needed a new crack pipe, a new water outlet, a new thermostat housing and so on. I learned my lesson kids, be patient, it pays off.

While it was out, I did remove the air pump and related components, seeing that Maine dose not require emission testing (except in ONE county). So far it has not made a difference.



AND..............IN!!!!!!!!

Ish. To let anyone doing this swap,YOU CAN USE YOUR STOCK DOWNPIPE!!!

You also need to cut is SHORT before you try dropping it in to the car. It will not clear the steering rack unless cut short and at a slight angle.

Also, once in, it looks as if the top of the engine will hit the hood once you close it, but there is plenty of room.




The 97 GLX that gave its life....Rest it's soul.

At this point the GLX had been there for 2 years. From the story I was told by the yard owner, The kid who had bought the GLX only had it for a few weeks before he was T-boned at an intersection. He was OK thankfully.

The man was also one of the nicest people on the planet. After picking up everything I thought I needed, I asked if I could come back for more parts off of the car if I needed them. He told me that I could go down whenever I wanted and grab whatever I needed to finish my project and offered me use of any tools if needed. He even let me pick off of other jettas for parts that the GLX was missing. I eventually went back and showed him the Cabrio once I got it running. He was happy to see that I was able to make it work.




Fun......if you're a neat freak.

Or not:rolleyes:

This was without a doubt the most frustrating part of the whole project. BE WARNED!!! your book of expletives had better be up to date before setting out on this task for the first time.

By the time I was done stripping out unneeded wiring, and looking over the A2 resource ( bless it's collective knowledge of schematics and diagrams) and the Bently manual, you get to know whats what quickly. But I will say, hearing that start for the first time sent a chill up my spine because I knew that this was going to be fun. Not only that, but I was never able to start the engine before I put it in, and it had been sitting in a junkyard for 2 years, so I didn't know if there was any internal damage. But there wasn't:D




Subtle, but it gets the point across.

:cool:





The car just came back from the muffler shop, and I still have to get the wires all neat and squared away.

BUT SHE RUNS AND DRIVES!!!!!!!!



I will be happy to answer any questions.
 

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BUT SHE RUNS AND DRIVES!!!!!!!!
It would be a lie if I said I wasn't jealous, right now. I am extreamly happy for you and wish mine was already in my car!!!! I unfortunately am still collecting parts!!!

I will be happy to answer any questions.
I am happy you mentioned that lol, I have a few!
1) Are you maintaining the A/C? If so, are you wiring it to the Mk1 controls or throwing in the Mk3 controls?
2) Did you use the Eurowise Mk1 Vr6 throttle cable? if not what are you running?
3) Assuming you are using the Mk1 Heatercore, did you buy the Eurowise adapter? If not, how did you connect yours?

That is all I got right now. I am happy you was able to get it going so fast, makes me feel that I can meet my time line goals :thumbup:

I will be patiently waiting for updates :popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
1) Are you maintaining the A/C? If so, are you wiring it to the Mk1 controls or throwing in the Mk3 controls?
2) Did you use the Eurowise Mk1 Vr6 throttle cable? if not what are you running?
3) Assuming you are using the Mk1 Heatercore, did you buy the Eurowise adapter? If not, how did you connect yours?
I am happy you was able to get it going so fast, makes me feel that I can meet my time line goals
Not to brag, but my days would work like this:

Wake up a 6:00 A.M go to work at 7:00 A.M.

Get off work at 7:00 P.M. and go work on the Cabby 20 min away.

Get home at 1:30 A.M. and repeat above for two weeks.

A labor of love. :heart:

I will answer in order.....

1) No. All A/C components have been removed. A shorter belt is required. I will get a part number for you.

2) No. I modified the original throttle cable to work with the VR6. I can post a picture of that when I get a chance.

3) No. A 1" brass barb was able to fit into both the VR6 heater hoses and with a little heat, the Mk1 hoses as well

Hope that helps.

Keep asking questions. :pumpkin:
 

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I appreciate the info (I will be adding it to the A1 Vr6 FAQ), my next question is which fuse box did you use (assuming you only used one)?

Thanks again for your insight!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I actually am using both fuse boxes. I left the mk1 in for the headlights, brake lights,wipers etc. And the glx box for the VR6.

The A/C delete belt part # is 7PK1290, about $22 at NAPA

This will fit perfectly without the A/C

I should mention that I kept the VR6 power steering as the cabrio came with it from the factory. So this belt is measured with that included.

The whole idea for this is to have a 100% stock Mk1, other than what's under the hood

No additional gauges, fancy seats ( I actually like the green and gray twill ), no super clean paint job.

Just a fun 8 month a year car that will be reliable, look good, rip up most things and drop a few jaws. :D

Giggidy.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
UPDATE:vampire:

After having the exhaust custom fitted to the stock downpipe, (yes, you do not have to spend mucho bucks for a custom header), and a few adjustments here and there, the car is 100% drivable.

A few notes:

1: Try hard to remember what it was like to drive your Mk1 with it's stock engine

2: Take car on first test drive with new VR6

3: Completely forget what your stock engine drove like because you have the biggest smile on your face when you realize what that sweet glorious sound is coming from under that hood

4: Get 5 MPG because you cannot take your foot off the floor

5: Plan on new tires soon :laugh:

6: Pat yourself on the back, you've created a monster



More videos soon:pumpkin:
 

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UPDATE:vampire:

After having the exhaust custom fitted to the stock downpipe, (yes, you do not have to spend mucho bucks for a custom header), and a few adjustments here and there, the car is 100% drivable.

A few notes:

1: Try hard to remember what it was like to drive your Mk1 with it's stock engine

2: Take car on first test drive with new VR6

3: Completely forget what your stock engine drove like because you have the biggest smile on your face when you realize what that sweet glorious sound is coming from under that hood

4: Get 5 MPG because you cannot take your foot off the floor

5: Plan on new tires soon :laugh:

6: Pat yourself on the back, you've created a monster



More videos soon:pumpkin:
I also got a custom downpipe (cost me $75 shipped!) I am looking forward to seeing more videos of this :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I also got a custom downpipe (cost me $75 shipped!) I am looking forward to seeing more videos of this :thumbup:
Where by chance did you get one made up for $75?
 

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Where by chance did you get one made up for $75?
Bought it from a member on here who was selling it for $50, Sent me pics, and shipping came out to 24.xx; was a GREAT Deal!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh boy, what a week.

I was in the process of making a driving video when i ran into a few snags, and could use some help.

(1) After 3 hours of adjusting and cursing, I cannot get the #%$& transmission to shift into reverse. 1st through 5th shift smooth and freely.

(2) Because I deleted the SAI, the car runs rough for the first 5 minutes when cold and smooths out. The problem that developed what seems like overnight, is a VERY rough idle, almost as if it were a supercharged Chevy small block, and it dose not change after the engine warms up.

Any thoughts on these? It is making the car unenjoyable-ish to drive.
 

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For the shifting issue, I would say check your shifter alignment. I've done a swap on my cabby and thought I tightend the linkage enough but a few days later I found that it was not tight enough; In turn, I wasn't able to go into all of my gears.

I will need to do a little more research on the SAI delete. Have you gone over everything to ensure there are no vacuum leaks? Also may want to ensure it is getting the appropriate spark to each cylinder as well.

Edit:

I found some useful information about deleting the SAI and it affecting fuel trim levels; read up on it Here https://sites.google.com/site/stoyn...moving-the-sai-secondary-air-injection-system (sorry with the site being updated I cannot add it as a link, so I just pasted here for you) Hope that helps!

Give us updates on your findings :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Update on engine.

I am embarresed to say that I had.....(sigh).....5 major vacuum leaks. :facepalm:

The good news, the engine now purrs like a 6 cylinder kitten.

Another thing i noticed is when I give it full throttle, it feels like a engine gnome is flipping a power switch just after 3000RPM when pulling. :confused: Even so, I took it up to 130 on a good straight.

Im working on getting the Mk3 dash hooked up to the original wiring for dash illumination, dimmer, turn signals, high beam, and gas gauge.

No update on reverse yet. :banghead:
 
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