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It's been an eventful week. One of my braided stainless brake hoses blew out, so I replaced them with Neuspeed hoses. Also installed IE intake, Neuspeed engine cover, DG short shifter, APR cable bracket, and 42DD cable support.

Still waiting for HPA to build me a downpipe so I can finally go stage 2.
 

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I'm curious what brand hose were you using that blew out? Also how long did you have them on? I'm just now in the process of swapping my original OEM ones for stainless and I'm really curious what the longevity of these are over OEM.
Whatever brand shipped with the old VWR kits; they were several years old.

From what I've heard, the VWR hoses were no-name garbage from unknown suppliers; a lot of people have had issues with them. Just buy from a reputable brand and you should be OK.
 

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I'm waiting for one as well, from what I've heard they should get done this week
According to Darryl, they should start shipping tomorrow (they're observing Canada Day today).

It's annoying to have to wait so long, but it's not a critical part and they've been great with communication. Would do business with HPA again.
 

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Internal cooling vanes should angle toward the rear of the car if they're directional. It doesn't really matter which way the surface slots are pointed, since they're uniform and not shaped to direct air in a particular direction.
 

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Finally got a nice day to install my Milltek catback. I guess the OE parts had deteriorated over time, because the full Milltek turboback is quieter than the stock system was.
 

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southbend stg2.. smf .. pendulum mount .. BFI street density engine/trans mounts ..
Fluidampr has no effect on the FW chatter, as it sits on the opposite end of the engine, but the overall vibration of the engine itself was reduced remarkably.
Same experience here with CM FX250 SMF and upgraded mounts. The clutch still rattles like hell, but the Fluidampr made a huge difference in vibrations.
 

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Installed the CTS turbo outlet pipe last Saturday and the throttle pipe yesterday. I should have gotten the Neuspeed parts, CTS is a real pain in the neck.
 

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These are the last parts I'll buy from CTS. Took them 3 weeks to get the package to me, and they're not direct bolt-in - they send off-the-shelf hoses that you cut to fit. Plus, the mounting bracket on the throttle pipe is welded on in the wrong place, so with everything connected the diverter valve doesn't line up with its mounting bracket. I had to order a longer hose for it, and I have to get back in there again to fix the problem. The turbo outlet pipe went on with minimal drama, at least.

2/10 would buy from a company who knows what they're doing next time.
 

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I'm also back in winter mode today. Finally got around to pulling a few stage 2 data logs; IE said everything looks good, and based on MAF reading I'm making pretty much exactly the power they advertise.
 

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one more Q, please..
relocating that batt to trunk, will not interfere with the spare tire OR any other aspect of the trunk, correct?
i.e. the carpet will lay flat & so forth .. ?
On thing to bear in mind is the stock muffler is lopsided to accommodate the battery box. If you have an aftermarket exhaust, you might not be able to do it.
 

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Dang man, you got take an old toothbrush to that bay. LOL
Jk.

Looks great! :beer:

Are you expecting your trims to be better with this intake?
What was your last one?
It's still winter, the dirt is what it is for now.

I did some logging today while running errands, fuel trims are 3-3.5% in city driving. I'll get some proper logs for it next weekend when I can get out to the country for some WOT runs.

I started a new thread about it with more info if you care to read it.
 

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How does the front intake piece fit?

Does it clear the vacuum lines and water hoses nicely?? With the old carbonio setup, it rests very close to the vacuum and water hoses.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
It clears the vacuum lines, but it sits on the coolant hoses. It's bolted solidly in place, though, so it doesn't move, so no rubbing. I've kept an eye on it, and there's no damage on any of the parts, so I'm not too worried about it at this point.
 

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From the reverse camera, I ran three cables to all the way to the head unit; ground, power, and coaxial. The trigger wire runs from the camera to my driver side reverse light.
That's how I did mine, too, except I just used the grounding post at the back of the car.
 

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Haldex fluid & filter change. Noticed my rear diff is leaking, so I refiilled it, cleaned it, and will keep an eye on where it's coming from.
 
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