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There is no code that I know of so I took a close color from Mitsubishi and tinted and toned it from there. Sorry.
It just had curb rash all the way around so I just sprayed the edges and blended it into the spokes the middle is still the OEM color
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The paint code that I have for the Denver is BRILLIANT SILVER Code L8Z8 only problem is I have not been able to get a paint shop to find that code in their computer.

 

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Hmm. I wonder if that's a piece from the Passat or something? You don't by any chance have the vw part #s, do you? I deleted the noise pipe as soon as I got the car. I used a plug on the original pipe and then I ended up putting in the pipe from a Passat, since I had a parts car. I just ignored the hole, but it would be nice to plug it I guess... lol
Search 1K0971866A & 1K0971865A
 

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Changed my oil last night and made a few VAG-COM tweaks. Made locking/unlocking the car with the key not flash the lights or sound the horn. Made it so comfort opening with the key fob doesn't open the sunroof.
So you were able to open sunroof with key fob? How did you code that? My understanding is that it is not available only the close with fob.
 

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Yep. I had it so the sunroof opened with the windows when I hit and held the unlock button on the fob. I'll take a screenshot of it when plug in the cable next time. It's all with the comfort opening/closing functions. You can also set the sunroof to slide or pop open depending on what your preference is.
Interesting.
 

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Did oil change at 135k, I always use liquid moly 5w40 since acquiring the car (07 fsi) at 60k miles. After running the car I noticed some oil coming from the filter housing so I gave it a little extra torque.

The next day I noticed a little oil on the ground so I drained the fresh oil into my oil pan (brand new so only one change in it) I drained the oil filter housing, checked the o ring and reinstalled/poured the oil back in from the oil pan. It was, obviously, a little darker; so my question is, should I be concerned or just change the oil on 5k as usual?

I didn’t want to start a thread, just curious what everyone thought, thanks
I usually do not like doing that but if your are sure to kept it all clean you will be fine.
 

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Yesterday stuck in snowstorm traffic for over 3 hours. I have a coolant leak I haven't addressed yet, so low coolant indicator came on... added coolant this AM.

Today, PS dummy lights came on for low beams out... turns out, fogs and FTP are out too..."city lights" and side markers are functional. I did some research and pulled the F16 fuse. I found this...!


Oh, and check engine light is back on... perhaps air intake is loose again. :banghead:
Take it to dealer and see if they will cover the new fuse box replacement.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10056392-4207.pdf
 

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Leaves and dirt fall in here and before you start to build and retain moisture and rust, grab a short T25 and take off two screws and clean this junk out on both sides. And don't forget the topside in front of the windshield as well (no tools required). Let's keep that plumbing clean.

Should take out the whole liner and then take care of the foam block with the mod the VW has in the TB for fender rust.
 

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Fyi, vw has a 12 year unlimited mile warranty on rust.
I would recommend pulling the fender liner out, throw away the foam block, and spray "cavity wax" everywhere in the area. It will prevent rust from happening.
Yes it is for 12 years and depending when the car was put "in service date" that could take out the '06, '07 MY. Cavity wax is good but in that area that the fender liner rubs/contacts the inner fender lip it will just rub off, something more durable would be better like what VW calls out for. My experience with cavity wax is that it is good for cavities that are not exposed to the elements and high heat. Would not want to use it on the Inner fender lip with the liner.
 

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Started my cam chain guide replacement.

She was worn a bit through


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Whoa that is bad, definitely not good for the bearing surfaces in that engine. While you are doing the chain and tensioner I would swap out that rounded off Rev A intake cam if you plan to keep that car.
 

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I bought it.

Cabriolet is a project right now, so bought an 08 Rabbit S. I know nothing about this generation so I'll be reading like crazy.

All I know to start is the reverse lights don't work (probably a dead switch). A/C doesn't work so will start with a recharge and go from there. The idler pulley under the alternator is squeeling. And the inspection found a seeping valve cover gasket. Now I don't have to borrow a car to get to work.
Find someone that can scan the car with Vcds or equivalent scan tool and check for Dtc for AC and also what shutoff code it is showing when you try to use AC system

Here is a list of typical Compressor Shut off codes:
- 0 = Compressor ON
- 1 = Compressor OFF: Refrigerant Pressure too high (> 32 bar)
- 2 = compressor OFF: Basic setting not performed
- 3 = Compressor OFF: Refrigerant Pressure too low (< 2.0 bar)
- 5 = Compressor OFF: Engine Start Detection
- 6 = Compressor OFF: ECON Mode active
- 7 = Compressor OFF: A/C System / FAN OFF
- 8 = Compressor OFF: Outside Temperature too low (< 3.0 °C)
- 10 = Compressor OFF: Vehicle System Voltage too low (< 10.1 V)
- 11 = Compressor OFF: Engine Temperature too high (> 118 °C)
- 12 = Compressor OFF: Shut-Off requested by Engine Control
- 13 = Compressor OFF: Vehicle System Voltage too high (> 17 V)
- 14 = Compressor OFF: Evaporator Temperature too low
- 16 = Compressor OFF: Compressor Activation faulty
- 17 = Compressor OFF: No or implausible Signal Pressure Sensor
- 18 = Compressor OFF: Vehicle Speed Shut-Off
- 19 = Compressor OFF: Shut-Off requested by Central Electronics Control (Load Management)

The pressure switch has been a know issue and can be replaced without losing refrigerant because of the schrader valve in MK5, cost about $30
 

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vwlugger22 OUCH!!! I was very close to that alt outcome. I backed off, took a break while I let some penetrating oil work on the sliders.

Finished my thermostat AND coolant flange replacement just a couple of ours ago!

My weekend definitely had its ups and downs...

Snapped off the little fitting on the upper radiator hose t fitting. Probably for the best it happened now cause the plastic bits had gotten pretty brittle!


Speaking of brittle plastic I then snapped the fitting off the hose coming from from the brake booster. Had to quick fix replace that with tubing and clamps.



Filled the system with water and a flush, bled the air and it’ll get drained and fresh coolant tomorrow along with an oil change. Speaking of oil, what do you guys think of Castrol full synthetic? It’s not my fav, but I can’t find any other 5w-40 locally.


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Upgrade for Y pipe http://www.gruvenparts.com/vw-audi-bpy-billet-radiator-hose-4y/ never have that problem again.
 
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