VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
6,364 Posts
Re: what kind of shop should i go to to get my Alientec installed? (helpmeplease)

its called the driveway... OR garage... one or the other is good... its simple... snap snap... and your done in 15 min... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
but if you NEED to go to a shop... go to a car audio place...

[Modified by 2KGTI-t, 12:09 PM 2-8-2002]

· Registered
4,889 Posts
Re: what kind of shop should i go to to get my Alientec installed? (helpmeplease)

If you're careful, this is pretty hard to screw up. Or do it with a friend who can check your work.

· Registered
4,889 Posts
Re: what kind of shop should i go to to get my Alientec installed? (helpmeplease)

Here. You might find this useful. When I first installed my Alientech, I wrote this up, but it was kinda buried by archiving. Enjoy!
Whenever there's some cool new aftermarket product, the first questions are always:
1. How much?
2. How hard is the installation?
I think what is REALLY meant by the second question is "How hard is the installation for a clueless moron like me?"
Well I'm here to answer that question. In fact, I might make this into a series, as this is the first car I have ever attempted to modify. So far I've installed a rear anti-sway bar, an upper strut tie bar, the euroswitch, the alientech remote, new wheels and tires, and debadged the car.
The subject of this is the Alientech.
Read the directions that come with the alientech - twice. If you don't understand it, read it again. It is ALL important. Don't skim (except for the pages covering installation on cars other than your model).
I was using KrON's excellent directions: Alientech Install. This post is a clueless newbie addendum to his directions.
So let's begin:
Removing the Door Panel
Before removing the door panel, have the following ready:
- a SMALL (as in tiny) screwdriver
- a T-20 torx screwdriver
- a pen and paper for noting the colors of the switches, and labeling the screws
- an extendable magnet to fetch screws you dropped in the door like an idiot
- a stool to sit on, so you don't mangle the side bolsters of your drivers seat while struggling with the door panel

Using a flathead screwdriver to remove the inside of the door handle sounds easy - it isn't. There isn't much room to stick the screwdriver in to pry the plastic away without scratching. Use a SMALL SCREWDRIVER, and work from the bottom. That way, if you scratch things, it won't show. Once you pry the inside of the handle a little ways, it should pop off easily. Then you can pull off the panel with the window switches fairly easily, with a bit of force as KrON says. Disconnect the clip holding connecting wiring to the switches by squeezing the sides of the clip and pulling out.
Now you can get to work on the door. Remove all the screws in the directions, and label where you got them from. There should be three from the bottom of the door (torx screws), one from the top front edge of the door panel (BE CAREFUL with that one - the plastic washer in the door is delicate), and three from inside the door handle.
Pull the door off. Do it GENTLY. REALLY GENTLY. I feel dumb because I broke one of the connectors, and I hardly used any force. Fortunately, I think these connectors are easily replaced from the dealership.
Once the six connectors have disengaged, sort of push up on the door panel until it pops out of the window sill. It takes a little work and a little sweat, but you'll get it.
Now you've got to figure out how to free the door panel of all the connected wires.
The two near the bottom of the door, next to the speaker, are easy - just squeeze the sides and they'll slide out.
The one connected to the sideview mirror control is a pain - take the small screwdriver and pop the latch on the TOP of the connector. Then it will slide out.
There's also a connector that goes to the LED for the window lock on the top left side of the door panel. To disconnect this - pull the connector attached TO THE DOOR- not the door panel!
Then just pull the wierd hanger wire connected to the door latch and you're done. I have NO IDEA how KrON actually removed the door latch assembly, as he pictured. I removed the screw, but the thing was stuck in there really tightly. As it happens, I didn't need to actually remove it.
So now all this stuff is disconnected, you can put the panel aside for later.
Installing the Alientech
This is actually pretty easy. Just be careful cutting and unravelling the cloth tape surrounding the wire bundle, and expose enough wire to make sorting through the wires easy. I'd say 6 or 8 inches is enough.
Now for the connectors. KrON's kit came with "UG" connectors. Mine came with totally different ones. I figured they worked the same. I figured wrong, and wasted at least an hour fiddling with the things.
Then I noticed the handy directions in the install guide that came with the Alientech. D'oh! READ THOSE DIRECTIONS. Or your life will be hell. Before doing all the connectors, try one, and connect the appropriate alientech wire, and see if it makes sense. Then go do all the others. Trust me.
Also, install the connectors such that all wires from the alientech connect to the same side of the connector (all connectors are oriented the same way). Otherwise your wiring bundle will get really messy.
Something odd that came up - in the Jetta/Golf application, Alientech says connect a wire to a "beige/light brown wire with a blue stripe". Well, be prepared to see TWO of these wires. The geniuses at VW put a brown wire with a blue stripe next to a blue wire with a brown stripe. If you look REALLY closely, you should be able to see which wire has less "blue" in it.
http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif Doesn't that suck?
DON'T tape everything up and put the door panel back on until you TEST.
Testing the Alientech
Run through the troubleshooting and testing section in the Alientech install guide shipped with the product. It is very helpful. If something doesn't work, check to make sure the connectors are crimped tightly.
Also, try resetting all the options to default and running through configuration again. The directions are in the Alientech install guide shipped with the product. They are amazingly easy to use, once you figure them out.
If everything works, nice! Feel good about yourself. Go have a beer.
Getting the Door Panel back on
This part sucks. Why?
A) because I accidentally broke the plastic washer for the phillips screw in the upper front part of the door panel, and
B) It is a giant pain in the butt to get the door latch hooked up, the little knurled door lock knob lined up, while pushing the top of the door panel into the top of the door frame.
A) Be sure the wire connector for the door handle window switches is easily accessible AFTER you've attached the door panel
B) Try working from the top front of the door panel backwards. As you get towards the back, work the door lock knob into it's slot in the door panel and then push the door panel down into the top of the door frame. Yeah, it is a huge pain.
C) Be careful with the plastic washer for the Phillips screw at the front of the door frame - I broke mine off accidentally, and have no idea how I'll fix it (argh!)
Once you get the top of the door panel on, the rest is easy. Just make sure no wires are in the way, and push the panel against the door to snap the 6 plastic connectors. Screw in all the screws, test the Alientech again, and hopefully, everything still works!
Clueless newbie install time: 2 1/2 hours, including testing, stupid mistakes, and a pee break
Have fun! Comments are welcome. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

· Registered
462 Posts
Re: what kind of shop should i go to to get my Alientec installed? (Sunil)

great writeup. one thing i'd add (after doing this TWICE because i decided to re-do the whole thing with different wiretaps after the first try failed) is to get a big box or something that's about as high as it is from the ground to the bottom of the door. i used a cardboard box. you can use this box to support the weight of the panel while you're unclipping all the wiring and the locking mechanism holding it to the doorframe. having a friend hold it would work too, but their arms might get a little tired if you don't know what you're doing and can't get it done quickly.
the alternative is to let the wiring support the weight of the panel (what i did the first time) until you've got it all unclipped, but that might break something.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.