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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It is a daily also but I plan to auto-x it this summer. I am running Bilstein HD struts front and rear.
Someone suggested H&R sports. Not sure what the spring rates are but I don't mind a fairly harsh ride. I seem to remember someone running 3-400 lb springs which I assume to far stiffer than the H&Rs? Thanks for the replies.
 

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Are you planning to run sway bars? How big?

With HD's you should be fine with springs up to @ 400 lb. Just remember shocks, springs, sway bars and bracing all need to work together to make the car handle the way you want. I used my MK1 as a daily driver/FSP autocrosser for several years with 450 lb front 400 lb rears without issue.

Many of the "sport" springs will be very soft but still work with those shocks. If comfort is a concern, softer springs and stiffer sway bars might be what you're after.

Chassis stiffening is important with the MK1. The k-brace made a noticeable improvement with mine, I'd highly recommend that while you are addressing the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. Any suggestions on where to look for springs if I go something stiffer?
As for sway bars I am still researching that one. I know some suggest going with a huge rear bar and removing the front. I have heard others say that that causes problems with tire lift.
 

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I like the Eibach springs so once you determine what spring rate and length you need then I'd just do a Google search. Lots for sale in forums and on ebay. Eibach springs last just about forever so I'd have no fear purchasing used. If you throw on a set of Ground Control sleeves with your Bilsteins you'll have a very nice start and will be able to control ride height. With those, you'd probably want @ a six inch spring but measure first!!!

Regarding sway bars. Some say big front, other say throw the front away.. same with rear. I've tried my share of different things with bars, spring rates and braces. My current autox setup (and the one that seems to be fastest for my driving style) is the following:

Bilstein race coilovers
spherical top mounts
LEVEL control arms!!!!
400# F / 600# R springs
Big front sway, factory rear sway
ball joint extenders
delrin control arm bushings
-2.75 front camber / -1.75 rear camber
1/16 toe out front / 0 toe rear

Here is my logic with the rear setup.... MK1's have a tendency to lift the inside rear tire when turning. Hopefully we all agree on that. So when turning, many of us only have 3 wheels on the ground providing traction. My thinking is that if 4 wheels could be on the ground during turns and provide traction that would be an improvement. So how do we get all 4 wheels on the ground when turning? A huge sway bar and a super stiff rear beam just didn't make that happen for me but the removal of the big rear sway bar certainly helped. It still sometimes turns on 3 wheels but not nearly as often or dramatically as before. Allowing the rear to actually compress and rebound seems to work better for me. The car can be a handful at times and rear tire pressure is key but I'm putting down better times this year than ever before with this car and I've owned it almost 10 years.

My suggestion is don't be afraid to try different setups. When Shine setup these cars years ago, he went against the norm and certainly made some very fast cars back in the day. Others have done the exact opposite of him and also made fast cars. Much of it depends on how you drive, what type of racing, and how you like a car to feel.

Level control arms is something I think everyone will agree on so do your best not to be tempted to lower the car too much. The car might look cooler low, but looking cool and going fast don't always go hand in hand.

My flame suit is on for those that want to tell me I don't know what I'm talking about. All I can say is that timed autox results don't lie and my setup works for me.

Good luck.
 

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check out ground control. They offer a sleeve and spring kit so you can effectively make a coil over. It's helpful with stronger springs to also be able to control ride height.
 

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I run 450 front 350 rear with tokicos. I'd like to go stiffer but I'm not sure there's a need.
Auto tech front bar and and old pipe type rear sway.
My car is under 1500 pounds so a heavier car may want heavier springs.
The type of tires you plan on running might affect it also.
 

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450-500 front for up to about 8 in tires on concrete, 100# less on pavement.
About the same n the rear, less 100# so that you can use enough bar.
More tire= more spring

Piece from my book on the rear tire . Per mk 1/2/3


"
I have also found that if the inside rear is not off of the ground, than we are not adding that weight to the inside front tire.
So.. I try to use enough sway bar to carry the tire maybe 4in. That turns out to be approximately 2-3 in of axle twist, measured with one wheel at race ride height and the other hanging.
The Mk 1 ,2, and 3 can use an adjustable bar, made from a piece of angle that bolts to the axle face . Inside of the angle, is the 1inx090 tube.

Use 2- 12x1.50 bolts to attach the angle to the bottom of the axle. Double nut both ends . To make the bar less powerful, loosen the lock nut and back off the main nut a few turns, snug up the lock nut. Easy and it works. "
MM
 
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