Re: What's a Neuspeed Hobs switch? (Rocc and Rado)
And it does not increase total possible power output for a given rpm, it basically just changes throttle response. I agree though, I wouldn't say that anyone "needs" one, and I personally would not reccomend them.
I got an email from SNS saying I need one. I guess with the larger injectors (42#) there is more potential to lean out when not at WOT. I guess the Hobs switch is a temporary solution until they fix the problem and I do quite a bit of half throttle boosting at autoX's and such.
Do you have a chip cut to match those big injectors, or is that what you are waiting for from them?
If you're desperate and it's a short term thing anyways, you can always bypass the WOT switch, i.e. wire up a connection so that the ECU thinks it is depressed all the time.
Ben has the newest version of the chip right now, but we're still in development with them. We're working developing the code for the BIG injector 16V cars. For the time being, the 16V Turbo guys were getting a request by me to throw a hobbs switch on there. 1/2 pedal with full boost is easily done with a turbo. It's just a temporary thing until we get the code where we want it. It's only crude if it doesn't work the way it was intended
Won't be any need for a mechanical WOT switch when we're done. Looks like we'll have a 2 stage enrichment at the same time, too.
basically a two stage no-lag chip was born today. it's really not necessary for stock injector cars, just these big ass injector cars.
the code may be included in all new chips after testing. There is no improvement of any sorts it's just keeping one single codebase for most people. simple as that.
if i'm not dyslexic in think clockwise on the co_pot = richer. I'll have to ask iceman666, but we played with it on the wideband today to nail down the fact. my digital multimeter is acting funky, might have to replace the batteries after a year or so..
So let me lay down a few things about my (minimal) knowledge of how chips work, so you guys can correct me if I'm wrong. My terminology might be off so bear with me.
Assuming the car is warmed up above the cold-start temps (blue coolant temp sensor!), then it is either running in open-loop mode or closed loop mode.
When the throttle is not at WOT, the ECU is injecting fuel based on O2 sensor readings, and is not just reading values off a fueling map. When you put your foot down and the throttle is at WOT, the WOT switch depresses and the car ignores the 02 sensor, and runs completely off a map, based on rpm/map/other sensor inputs.
So if you guys have developed code that eliminates the need for the WOT switch, how does the ECU know where to look for how much fuel to inject? Does it still ignore the 02 sensor? Or, is the 02 sensor ignored at part throttle too now?
For both a stock setup and one of your chips, when/how does the ECU pull fuel values from the different maps? When you're at part throttle, is the amount of fuel injected completely controlled on the fly by 02/MAP sensor inputs?
I guess what it bouls down to is that I'm wondering when the various inputs are used - 02, MAP, rpm signal, etc., and how elimination of the WOT switch affects that.
Oh, and to throw another wrench in the works, my understanding of the hobbs switch is that it's a pressure-sensitive switch that tricks the ECU into thinking the car is at WOT when it really isn't, if the manifold pressure is above a certain point. Is that completely correct?
Does yor WOT-elimination code do something similar to that - replace the WOT switch with some other type of input/switching point, or is the WOT function completely gone?
Our nolag code looks at the MAP signal to determine when to kick into open loop mode (ignor O2 sensor). The WOT switch is still operational, but brings on another level of enrichment that is noticeable with near 500cc/min injectors. Our goal is to bring this level of enrichment on automagically, on top of the original code to use up every bit of injector we can throw at it without bogging the turbo's spoolup from an overly rich mixture.
Our nolag code looks at the MAP signal to determine when to kick into open loop mode (ignor O2 sensor).
So, when you hit X psi, it kicks into open loop mode? So what if I'm at low rpm's in a g60'd car and I nail the pedal - I'm at (or near) WOT but at a low boost level. Is X low enough to activate open loop in a situation like that? Will the ECU react to that in the same manner as if I were at higher rpm's and gave it partial throttle - but because of the higher rpm's, I was at the same boost level?
And thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
its low enough engagement point where we found detonation to not occur.
These points are dual staged and could be configured to engage in vaccuum (ie n/a car) or by rpm range as well, but your wot switch still is there, it acts as a fall back in any case.
i don't run a wot switch at all in testing right now. I need to figure out my "bucking" and "Freezing of mfa" problem real soon. It's not the chip, its happening with every chip i've throw in it including what everyone else uses.
I'm gonna try plugs tonight then start looking for other issues while i install a voltmeter.
Any idea what a direct short of the battery might look like on a voltmeter when it happens? Would it go to 0 or go past 12V, say if you were to drop a wrench across the battery poles?
If you dropped a wrench across the battery poles (and left it there) the voltage would drop to 0, since the battery would probably blow up.
But seriously, if you had any situation where there was a short across the battery, you'd either be setting things on fire or blowing fuses. And as long as the connection for the voltmeter wasn't part of that faulty circuit (i.e. if you had the meter wired right to the battery on it's own) it probably wouldn't show anything when that happened. The potential across the battery (voltage) theoretically shouldn't change relative to current flow (i.e. through a circuit) though it will in practice fluctuate a bit with big loads.
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