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Ditching my auto and swapping in a 5spd. Having a terrible time trying to get the transmission back in. I had it lassoed with my engine hoist and trying to get it into a position where it could slide on but no luck. Any tricks? Working solo. But may be able to find someone to help instead of using the hoist and jacks
 

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Other than ensuing the disc is centered, you may need to rotate the trans slightly, but it should slide on. Slightly jiggling the trans may help.

I’m guessing you’re trying to do this from the top, because you’re using a hoist? It’s probably hurting your efforts. Being under the car will probably be best.

In my early days, I’d have the jack under the engine, and I’d bench press the trans into place. Nowadays, I use an engine bar. Both engine and trans are supported and I’m barely lifting anything. Much easier.

-Todd
 

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Other than ensuing the disc is centered, you may need to rotate the trans slightly, but it should slide on. Slightly jiggling the trans may help.

I’m guessing you’re trying to do this from the top, because you’re using a hoist? It’s probably hurting your efforts. Being under the car will probably be best.

In my early days, I’d have the jack under the engine, and I’d bench press the trans into place. Nowadays, I use an engine bar. Both engine and trans are supported and I’m barely lifting anything. Much easier.

-Todd
X2
 

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I was in the same boat not too long ago. Attached photo shows the relatively crude jacking arrangement I used to remove and install the transaxle. I did have an engine bar on top supporting some of the engine weight (most was being supported by engine mount on passenger side). I also had a jack under the oil pan (side of pan where it's stiff) and a separate jack to raise lower the transaxle.

With vehicle up on jack stands, engine was rotated to allow transaxle to fit and mate properly. Be mindful of the brake lines and other 'delicate' items around...as they can be easily damaged.

Also attaching some information from Bentley. Step 1 highlights a nut on stud or bolt differentiator. I had a bolt, so it was a non-issue. If you have a nut on stud...you'll need to consider. Best of luck.

Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Wheel
Publication Newspaper Material property Font Book
 

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If you take the right axle flange off, it makes it slide in a lot easier. But then you need to be able to get the flange back on while the transmission is installed. That axle really is in the way of the flywheel.
 

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The main thing is to get the right drive flange passed the flywheel first. Hook it around the flywheel then the trans shaft should go on. It takes some monkeying but keep at it you'll get it. Using the engine hoist helps, also add a ratching strap to the backside of the trans to help tilt it forward and back.
 

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The main thing is to get the right drive flange passed the flywheel first. Hook it around the flywheel then the trans shaft should go on. It takes some monkeying but keep at it you'll get it.
Don't forget the curse words. As far as I'm concerned, monkeying is the wrong term. It's down right frustrating on the first go around. Once you've done it a few times, you either get used to the frustration or it gets easier. Working on your back trying to lift the transmission or even jerking it around on some jack takes a lot of patience.
 

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I don’t believe it’s possible to attach the PP incorrectly. The FW should be the same way, unless it’s somehow forced on.

Long story short, unless you touched the timing belt, there should be no need to reset the timing.

-Todd
 

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You certainly cannot attach the plate to the crank wrong, unless you got a missing bolt. The holes are offset. Same way with the flywheel. Since VW uses the flywheel mark for setting the ignition timing, it would be foolish if they engineered it in a way you could mount it anyway you wanted to.
 

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I am going to do this anyways, but will the timing have to be redone? Im assuming rhat is a yes, considering the flywheel is unlikely to be in the exact same spot.
Er..transmission timing?🤔
 
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