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I have the same problem on my 3.2. Is this hard to fix? Dealer quoted me over $1300 for parts and labor but I declined and will try to do this myself.
It might be a little different for the 3.2, but overall it was a pretty easy swap for the 2.0T. The hardest part was getting access to a bolt that was directly behind and AC line.
Sounds like a lot of guys pulled the assembly out from the bottom, but I let the passenger side slide down then pulled the whole thing up from the drivers side of the fan.
 

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parked and turning the key and felt a littel resistance. Got my burrito, walking back to my car and happy to be getting home. Put the key in and snap it turns part way and stops and it won't turn back. It's effing stuck. Wiggle, shake and crank but stuck. Eff this. well ate my burrtio in the cold, called a flatbed and towed it to the local audi. So much for a relaxing evening
 

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parked and turning the key and felt a littel resistance. Got my burrito, walking back to my car and happy to be getting home. Put the key in and snap it turns part way and stops and it won't turn back. It's effing stuck. Wiggle, shake and crank but stuck. Eff this. well ate my burrtio in the cold, called a flatbed and towed it to the local audi. So much for a relaxing evening
What was in the burrito?
 

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It might be a little different for the 3.2, but overall it was a pretty easy swap for the 2.0T. The hardest part was getting access to a bolt that was directly behind and AC line.
Sounds like a lot of guys pulled the assembly out from the bottom, but I let the passenger side slide down then pulled the whole thing up from the drivers side of the fan.
Thanks for the tip! Hope it is as easy for the 3.2 when I eventually get around to my repair.
 

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Looks like a section of my exhaust pipe had the stainless coating fail and it started to rust out. The point where one of the hangars is welded to that section broke through and now I've got a big blowhole.





Milltek exhaust btw. I imagine a shop will be able to weld in a new section.
 

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Looks like a section of my exhaust pipe had the stainless coating fail and it started to rust out. The point where one of the hangars is welded to that section broke through and now I've got a big blowhole.





Milltek exhaust btw. I imagine a shop will be able to weld in a new section.
post a sound clip for laughs. sorry though
 

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2012 Touareg Hybrid, 2014 JSW TDI 6M, 2003 A4 5M
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I have vibration that starts at about 65mph. I assume it's either control rods or CV joints. I think I've decided to hold onto my A3 for a year or better (it's a buyback TDI) so I'm going to take it to a shop to have it checked out.
 

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7k rpm in 6th at any speed.









yup i went stage 1 today and am doing southbend stage 2 endurance,ae revision breather, and rear main seal Saturday. not a good start to this 1k mile trip.
 

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Error followed coil pack. And they were doing so well. Dealer replaced them on TSB many years ago so they've probably got 120k+ miles on them. Looks like there's another new rev that came out recently, for more $$$, of course.
 

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Started noticing it more this year since it's been colder more often than last... having some issues with cold start on A3 3.2. When it's very cold out (-15C and below), car seems to want to stall but catches itself when starting. Revs would go to 200rpm for a second or two before going back up to 800rpm. Once at 800rpm, it's stable, no bouncing around, doesn't shake, no misfires or codes. No issues when car is warm or outdoor temperature is warmer. Showed mechanic and thinks it maybe engine coolant temperature sensor getting wrong info causing wrong air/fluel mix at statup. Cheap fix if it is indeed the issue. Wonder what else can be. Pump primes, new battery, maybe MAF, dirty injectors (only use Vpower all the time). Posted link on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jpzg86ravYQ&feature=youtu.be
 

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hpsims- that sounds exactly like an issue I had when my battery was low on acid of all things. I filled it with distilled water as a Band-Aid and it hadn't come back for the past two months while I waited to have the time to change out the battery. I do see you have a new one, but that's what worked for me.

As for what's wrong with mine- I changed my oil this weekend, and noticed that my CV axle boot had a nice little tear. I've noticed a little extra slack in the driveline for the past two weeks, as well as a noticeable clunk when de/accelerating in sharp right hand corners. So CV time...
 

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hpsims- that sounds exactly like an issue I had when my battery was low on acid of all things. I filled it with distilled water as a Band-Aid and it hadn't come back for the past two months while I waited to have the time to change out the battery. I do see you have a new one, but that's what worked for me.

As for what's wrong with mine- I changed my oil this weekend, and noticed that my CV axle boot had a nice little tear. I've noticed a little extra slack in the driveline for the past two weeks, as well as a noticeable clunk when de/accelerating in sharp right hand corners. So CV time...
I checked the battery and fluid levels are good and battery is new anyways. I did changed my engine coolant sensor for now. Will see if that fixes it. It's not a huge deal. It just happens when it's very cold out. Maybe will do an Italian tuneup before my next oil change as well.
 
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