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hello all...here you go, all of mine broke the same way so i figure most of yours did too...
first you want to take off the door panel. first i removing the speaker


and then unsrewing the door lock pin

and then you unscrew all of the torx screws on the sides and bottom of the door. and then you pry off the top half of the handle

so that you can get to the two screw holding the door panel to the door

after everythings unscrewed take off the panel being careful not to snap the door pull. and you should have this.

you then take off the speaker bracket thats screwed into the door and then peel the vapor off from the outside of the door to the inside draping it near the door jamb

you then loosen the bolts on the window clamp and then pull the window up all the way...it should stay barring noone vibrates the car alot

with that done your now ready to loosen the regulator bolts and pull it out of the door



and now to the culpritt.....you can pull the window clamp off the track and look where its broke now. at the top of the picture youll see a small recessed plastic square. at the top of this, there is a plastic quide that guides the cable that is broken off which in return allows the metal piece on the wire to pull out of the recess leaving your window broke due to nothing supporting the clamp.


to fix this is very ghetto but it works. youll need a somewhat strong wire tie and a wire butt connector(pretty thick)...see what i mean ghetto...very thick butt...
... heres what you do. you first thread the wire tie under the cable on the track right above the metal piece thats attached to the wire. and thenbring both ends of the tie through the clamp as you set it back on the track

you then place the butt connector over the whole to bridge the gap and the pull the wire tie as tight as you can


in the process of doing this youll see whats happening...your basically making a wire guide so that the clamp will stay attached to the track.
after doing this, replace everything and your window should work again. just make sure that when you clamp the window back on give it a few test runs to make sure the window is straight and not struggling on the way up. i hope this helps and i hope i can save alot of people from forking over the benjamin at the dealership

if theres any questions im me

Modified by smokedvdub at 8:30 PM 12-30-2004
 

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Thanks for the DIY thread, I will be trying this out this weekend! If all goes well, it will save me the $140 my local vw mechanic would charge for labor.
 

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tried this, but no dice. my cables were too jacked. you could see the insulation getting bunched....

soooo i took the motor off the regulator, removed ALL of the cables, then strapped some zip ties around the bottom of the track.


window back in, i can manually open and close it, window sits about 2" above the sill so i can pull it up :)

gotta finish my wedge for it lol.
 

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I've had to replace my two front regulators, but not for this reason- the clips were good. My problem was that the cheap plastic gear inside the motor snapped. Had to replace the motor. Luckily managed to get used ones on eBay, and replaced the regulators too, just in case.

My passenger side window now works opposite - up button is down and down button is up. Everything only goes in one way so I can't see why it's doing this! Does anyone have any ideas??
 

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Thanks for the writeup.
I replaced my regulator but now the window struggles so much half way that it goes back down!!?
Some ideas?:mad:
 

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My zip ties break - I used cable

Thanks much for this writeup and photos!
I used the zip-tie approach on my left rear regulator about a month ago, and had good success with it for about a week. Then the zip tie broke. I thought I might have nicked the plastic on the zip-tie making break easily, so I replaced with a new zip-tie. Well that one broke too after about 4 days.

I used another approach this morning, and we'll see how long it lasts. The new approach:
1) use 1/16 inch braided cable (16 cents/foot at Home Depot) instead of a zip-tie to create a loop around the regulator cable, securing it to the metal/plastic window carrier (I'm sure there's a term of art for this piece, but I don't know it)
2) thread the 1/16" cable through a narrow-opening washer on the other side of the window carrier, to allow me snug it all up with out things pulling through the metal fitting
2) use a crimp-on aluminum ferrule to secure together the two ends of the 1/16" cable; I used some vise-grips to compress it
 

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Thanks for the writeup.
I replaced my regulator but now the window struggles so much half way that it goes back down!!?
Some ideas?:mad:
It sounds like your window is binding.

The cradle the window sits in has two 10mm nuts that squeeze down on a rubber mat that secures the window. If you tighten these while the window is down, chances are you'll tighten the cradle while it is not correctly centered, causing the glass to bind in tracks. Instead lightly tighten the nuts by hand while the regulator/window are in the down position, then raise the window fully, and then back it off about an inch from full height. Look through the two inspection ports on the door frame and you should see the 10mm nuts waiting for you to tighten them (if you don't see them, adjust the window up/down so they're exposed). The cradle should be adjusted nicely by you moving the window up/down, and should be ready to tighten. Tighten the nuts -- carefully and not too tight, or you'll break the glass -- and then run the window up and down a few times. It should move smoothly. If it doesn't, loosen the nuts and - while the window is almost fully up - move the cradle fore/aft a bit with your hand, and then tighten.
 

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Good job...digging up an old thread from '04 and Quoting a 2 year old post. All in all, at least you are using the search function. :thumbup:
 
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