dammit hurry up and do stage 2+ so i can see if our volant trims are similar.Updated APR 1+ 93 octane software to the 3.31 with intake version which means fuel trim tracking again...just what I wanted to do. :banghead: :laugh: Anyway, they never went above 5% before and so far after 3.31 they're...
:thumbup: so far.
Lol stop making sense ,I don't like it! ( :So far I have about 50-60 miles on the new tune 25 of which were in bumper to bumper traffic so it's still new to me but the difference was noticeable right away. It's smoother when left in first gear for long periods of time that I can say for sure lol, actually it is a plus if I did that in traffic before I'd hit that torque surge the old map had and it could be slightly jerky but that was rare based on amount of throttle input. I took it for a good mixed drive today of around town normal driving and some spirited stuff where possible and it's real smooth with constant pull. Before it was fun because the car was a bit manic, you'd cruise along and floor it and it would freak out like it had a rocket up it's ass then it would quickly come down from that high and have to build back up for the rest of the RPM range. This was fun for a quick blip of the throttle here and there but the new tune is way better since it smoothly makes power that increases and increases and there's no recovery after that surge of torque the old tune had. It's much more usable throughout the whole range now Vs before when it was like a nitrous shot that worked for a few thousand RPMs then the bottle ran out (yes I've had nitrous in past cars to actually know that feeling). In all honestly now the UM and APR tunes (on paper) look quite similar that if you blindfolded someone and had two Rs one with each tune the odds of them guessing correct would be slim to none. Before it would be easy to spot the APR car. I don't think you'd be upset with either choice.
I'm really in no rush to go 2+ to be honest. Mostly because I don't want to have to buy a damn clutch soon after a downpipe. :laugh: Plus I want to run a downpipe that's resonated and has a cat that will let me run an o2 spacer and skip the test pipe file so I have no problems with passing NY emissions next year. That leaves me with one choice, the AWE which is NOT a cheap downpipe. I wanted to go with the neuspeed but there's no resonator option and I don't want a raspy overly loud exhaust. In all honestly I think I may do the TB pipe and discharge pipe and maybe even an intercooler before the downpipe. I'm curious just how much power this car can make with every bolt on other than a downpipe. I'd like to dyno it after all that is done. May actually dyno it as is now to see if the catback can squeak out a few HP over APRs listed 1+ 93 numbers. My money is all tied up in my guitar business right now so anything big will have to wait. Thankfully I'm happy with the car as is though, but it will get done at some point.
Yes, this sound like a plan my paypal address is... :laugh:
Just buy a damn vag-com cable already.
I've been using the D115 since you suggested it and I definitely love it, it is wayyy easier to clean the car that way several times a week then a full wash. Well, actually i still give it a full wash once a week out of OCD but the D115 keeps it looking awesome between washes.That's a bit tricky to answer with a definitive answer since it's a case by case basis really. If it's just some water spots and dust build up then it's usually fine to waterless. If it has anything stuck too it that was kicked up from the tires then at least a rinseless should be done and if it's real bad bust out the buckets and hose. You can also do as ecirwin did and blast off any heavy stuff with a hose or pressure washer then waterless it from there but that sort of defeats the purpose of waterless yet it does make it safer if you're unsure about amount of dirt behind the wheels for example. Waterless is great for people that rather wash their car often and spend 15-20 minutes doing it Vs washing it once in a blue moon and having to spend more time with heavy duty cleaners to remove tar, bugs, road film and other junk. Also the car should have some form of wax or sealant on it to help keep things from sticking to it in the first place. If a car has a quality sealant then that will make waterless even more safe since the things on the paint won't be bonded to it as well as if it was poorly maintained never waxed or sealed paint where that bug or whatever would be stuck to the sealant layer and not directly on the paint.