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LOL! ^^^^^^ Send him money and I'm sure he will hurry up! ;)
well, there is always that :D Guess i am not that desperate for the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
How is overall drive feel? I know you pay attention to detail so I would love to hear some feedback from you. I am still trying to decide between UM and APR.
So far I have about 50-60 miles on the new tune 25 of which were in bumper to bumper traffic so it's still new to me but the difference was noticeable right away. It's smoother when left in first gear for long periods of time that I can say for sure lol, actually it is a plus if I did that in traffic before I'd hit that torque surge the old map had and it could be slightly jerky but that was rare based on amount of throttle input. I took it for a good mixed drive today of around town normal driving and some spirited stuff where possible and it's real smooth with constant pull. Before it was fun because the car was a bit manic, you'd cruise along and floor it and it would freak out like it had a rocket up it's ass then it would quickly come down from that high and have to build back up for the rest of the RPM range. This was fun for a quick blip of the throttle here and there but the new tune is way better since it smoothly makes power that increases and increases and there's no recovery after that surge of torque the old tune had. It's much more usable throughout the whole range now Vs before when it was like a nitrous shot that worked for a few thousand RPMs then the bottle ran out (yes I've had nitrous in past cars to actually know that feeling). In all honestly now the UM and APR tunes (on paper) look quite similar that if you blindfolded someone and had two Rs one with each tune the odds of them guessing correct would be slim to none. Before it would be easy to spot the APR car. I don't think you'd be upset with either choice.

dammit hurry up and do stage 2+ so i can see if our volant trims are similar. :D
I'm really in no rush to go 2+ to be honest. Mostly because I don't want to have to buy a damn clutch soon after a downpipe. :laugh: Plus I want to run a downpipe that's resonated and has a cat that will let me run an o2 spacer and skip the test pipe file so I have no problems with passing NY emissions next year. That leaves me with one choice, the AWE which is NOT a cheap downpipe. I wanted to go with the neuspeed but there's no resonator option and I don't want a raspy overly loud exhaust. In all honestly I think I may do the TB pipe and discharge pipe and maybe even an intercooler before the downpipe. I'm curious just how much power this car can make with every bolt on other than a downpipe. I'd like to dyno it after all that is done. May actually dyno it as is now to see if the catback can squeak out a few HP over APRs listed 1+ 93 numbers. My money is all tied up in my guitar business right now so anything big will have to wait. Thankfully I'm happy with the car as is though, but it will get done at some point.

LOL! ^^^^^^ Send him money and I'm sure he will hurry up! ;)
Yes, this sound like a plan my paypal address is... :laugh:


well, there is always that :D Guess i am not that desperate for the info
Just buy a damn vag-com cable already. :p
 

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Plus I want to run a downpipe that's resonated and has a cat that will let me run an o2 spacer and skip the test pipe file so I have no problems with passing NY emissions next year. That leaves me with one choice, the AWE which is NOT a cheap downpipe. I wanted to go with the neuspeed but there's no resonator option and I don't want a raspy overly loud exhaust. In all honestly I think I may do the TB pipe and discharge pipe and maybe even an intercooler before the downpipe. I'm curious just how much power this car can make with every bolt on other than a downpipe. I'd like to dyno it after all that is done. May actually dyno it as is now to see if the catback can squeak out a few HP over APRs listed 1+ 93 numbers. My money is all tied up in my guitar business right now so anything big will have to wait. Thankfully I'm happy with the car as is though, but it will get done at some point.
Isn't the APR down pipe resonated, cat, and you can add an O2 spacer? I think 42DD is the same and they actually make the O2 spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
Isn't the APR down pipe resonated, cat, and you can add an O2 spacer? I think 42DD is the same and they actually make the O2 spacer.
The high flow metal cats that all the other downpipes use are great for performance but the odds of them working with an O2 spacers are slim to none because they're built to flow and not actually work as well as a cat should. So the spacer would have an even harder time fooling the sensor since the cat isn't doing much at all. Thus why if you look at the cats used on the AWE and Neuspeed they're vastly different than the cheap metal cats used on other brands which is one reason they cost more. They're still high performance higher flowing that stock by a mile but you do sacrifice some performance when compared to a metal cat due to the cat actually functioning better. I'm ok with that since I rather not deal with emissions issues that some of the MKV guys had with our same engines when it came time for NY inspections after running stage 2+ files which are all test pipe files even if you have a high flow cat. You have to specifically ask for a non test pipe file and you're on your own for tricking the sensors. Both AWE and Neuspeed guarantee their downpipes will work on a bone stock car if you wanted them to with no CEL thus making them my only options that fit my wants.

If I could find a 2.75" resonator to add to the Neuspeed downpipe I'd go with that over the AWE for sure based on price and the fact that it's 2.75" like my Borla catback is. Again, not so power hungry that I care about leaving a few HP on the table from .25" of pipe diameter.
 

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So far I have about 50-60 miles on the new tune 25 of which were in bumper to bumper traffic so it's still new to me but the difference was noticeable right away. It's smoother when left in first gear for long periods of time that I can say for sure lol, actually it is a plus if I did that in traffic before I'd hit that torque surge the old map had and it could be slightly jerky but that was rare based on amount of throttle input. I took it for a good mixed drive today of around town normal driving and some spirited stuff where possible and it's real smooth with constant pull. Before it was fun because the car was a bit manic, you'd cruise along and floor it and it would freak out like it had a rocket up it's ass then it would quickly come down from that high and have to build back up for the rest of the RPM range. This was fun for a quick blip of the throttle here and there but the new tune is way better since it smoothly makes power that increases and increases and there's no recovery after that surge of torque the old tune had. It's much more usable throughout the whole range now Vs before when it was like a nitrous shot that worked for a few thousand RPMs then the bottle ran out (yes I've had nitrous in past cars to actually know that feeling). In all honestly now the UM and APR tunes (on paper) look quite similar that if you blindfolded someone and had two Rs one with each tune the odds of them guessing correct would be slim to none. Before it would be easy to spot the APR car. I don't think you'd be upset with either choice.



I'm really in no rush to go 2+ to be honest. Mostly because I don't want to have to buy a damn clutch soon after a downpipe. :laugh: Plus I want to run a downpipe that's resonated and has a cat that will let me run an o2 spacer and skip the test pipe file so I have no problems with passing NY emissions next year. That leaves me with one choice, the AWE which is NOT a cheap downpipe. I wanted to go with the neuspeed but there's no resonator option and I don't want a raspy overly loud exhaust. In all honestly I think I may do the TB pipe and discharge pipe and maybe even an intercooler before the downpipe. I'm curious just how much power this car can make with every bolt on other than a downpipe. I'd like to dyno it after all that is done. May actually dyno it as is now to see if the catback can squeak out a few HP over APRs listed 1+ 93 numbers. My money is all tied up in my guitar business right now so anything big will have to wait. Thankfully I'm happy with the car as is though, but it will get done at some point.



Yes, this sound like a plan my paypal address is... :laugh:




Just buy a damn vag-com cable already. :p
Lol stop making sense ,I don't like it! ( :
 

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The high flow metal cats that all the other downpipes use are great for performance but the odds of them working with an O2 spacers are slim to none because they're built to flow and not actually work as well as a cat should. So the spacer would have an even harder time fooling the sensor since the cat isn't doing much at all. Thus why if you look at the cats used on the AWE and Neuspeed they're vastly different than the cheap metal cats used on other brands which is one reason they cost more. They're still high performance higher flowing that stock by a mile but you do sacrifice some performance when compared to a metal cat due to the cat actually functioning better. I'm ok with that since I rather not deal with emissions issues that some of the MKV guys had with our same engines when it came time for NY inspections after running stage 2+ files which are all test pipe files even if you have a high flow cat. You have to specifically ask for a non test pipe file and you're on your own for tricking the sensors. Both AWE and Neuspeed guarantee their downpipes will work on a bone stock car if you wanted them to with no CEL thus making them my only options that fit my wants.

If I could find a 2.75" resonator to add to the Neuspeed downpipe I'd go with that over the AWE for sure based on price and the fact that it's 2.75" like my Borla catback is. Again, not so power hungry that I care about leaving a few HP on the table from .25" of pipe diameter.
Thanks this got me thinking a little bit. I live in TX and we have to do emissions. I called my shop and they said with ARP DP and APR tune they have had no issues passing TX emissions. I may still hold off a little more. The price of the DP and install is killing me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 · (Edited)
Thanks this got me thinking a little bit. I live in TX and we have to do emissions. I called my shop and they said with ARP DP and APR tune they have had no issues passing TX emissions. I may still hold off a little more. The price of the DP and install is killing me.
It's different per state, it seems to be an issue in NY and NJ mostly where all tuners method used to fool the car into shutting off the CEL for a high flow cat causes a readiness fault due to a disabled O2 sensor and a insufficient cat (forget the exact wording, but it's based on the cats temp not being hot enough) fault too thus not letting the car pass emissions. There's been tons of threads since the MKV days 'til now on this on here and the golfmk5 and golfmk6 forums. Do some searching on forums or google for "readiness" that should pop up loads of threads from MKVs, to all versions of the MKVI too. Not sure if it also happens in TX I just kept seeing it pop up from NYers which made me weary of even doing a downpipe 'til someone came out with one that will pass for sure without the testpipe file. This is all unproven on Rs since no one has needed a full NY or NJ inspection yet since that comes 2 years after ownership. However why would it be any different than any other MKV or MKVI GTI in reality? Thus my hesitation since no one can say for sure what will happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
I agree, I like the look of the Volant since it's not quite factory looking but not full on filter on a metal pipe aftermarket looking, a good balance. I'm curious to see what the new one will look like and hope it performs well.

I'm a neurotic ex pro detailer and the car isn't daily driven so it's real easy to keep clean under the hood. Plus it has hardly any miles on it anyway so I have that working on my side too haha. All I use are typical waterless wash products like Meguiar's D115 or Ultima Waterless Wash + and for the plastic parts Adam's Super VRT and In and Out spray or Meguiar's D4510 which is 99% the same as In and Out spray at around 1/3 the cost. I don't actually wash the car, it always gets waterless washed after each drive then covered back up 'til the next nice day it goes out for a drive. Since I do it so often it takes hardly any time since it's hardly dirty. There's an age old detailing saying that goes something like, frequent maintenance is easy maintenance, and it holds true. Don't wash your car for a month or two and you'll be putting in more elbow grease and needing harsher wheel cleaners, bug and tar removers and things of that nature. Clean it every week or so and it will take nowhere near as long. Same goes for under the hood, the more often you wipe things down and blow out the nooks and crannies the less dirt and gunk will build up in there.
 

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I agree, I like the look of the Volant since it's not quite factory looking but not full on filter on a metal pipe aftermarket looking, a good balance. I'm curious to see what the new one will look like and hope it performs well.

I'm a neurotic ex pro detailer and the car isn't daily driven so it's real easy to keep clean under the hood. Plus it has hardly any miles on it anyway so I have that working on my side too haha. All I use are typical waterless wash products like Meguiar's D115 or Ultima Waterless Wash + and for the plastic parts Adam's Super VRT and In and Out spray or Meguiar's D4510 which is 99% the same as In and Out spray at around 1/3 the cost. I don't actually wash the car, it always gets waterless washed after each drive then covered back up 'til the next nice day it goes out for a drive. Since I do it so often it takes hardly any time since it's hardly dirty. There's an age old detailing saying that goes something like, frequent maintenance is easy maintenance, and it holds true. Don't wash your car for a month or two and you'll be putting in more elbow grease and needing harsher wheel cleaners, bug and tar removers and things of that nature. Clean it every week or so and it will take nowhere near as long. Same goes for under the hood, the more often you wipe things down and blow out the nooks and crannies the less dirt and gunk will build up in there.
Yep,

I hit you up on autopia for advice (used another screen name, i had clear bra questions). You recommended the Ultima Waterless Wash+ over the Adams waterless wash and I could not be happier. It looks great and leaves a nice finish for a lot less cost. I also dig the scent while I am wiping her down.

I completely agree with you, mine gets a lot more mileage than yours at the moment but I still feel that waterless wash is the way to go, I am happier wiping her down than doing a full on wash. It's frequent, but quick and easy. The added benefit is the car is always looking fresh and clean and we are saving boat loads of water.

Granted I use water when running all the towels through the wash, but I still think overall it's significant water savings. I also love that I can just do it in my garage, regardless of weather or time of day outside. All arround I give waterless washing :thumbup::thumbup:

While we are on the subject, can you recommend something for wheel cleaning and perhaps coating? So that the brake dust comes off easy peasy the next time around? Do you waterless wash the wheels also? Or do you just hit those with the occasional water wash?

I don't want to blast your R thread with detail material so feel free to respond via PM if you prefer.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
I dig the engine cover! :thumbup::thumbup:


Andy
Thanks!


Yep,

I hit you up on autopia for advice (used another screen name, i had clear bra questions). You recommended the Ultima Waterless Wash+ over the Adams waterless wash and I could not be happier. It looks great and leaves a nice finish for a lot less cost. I also dig the scent while I am wiping her down.

I completely agree with you, mine gets a lot more mileage than yours at the moment but I still feel that waterless wash is the way to go, I am happier wiping her down than doing a full on wash. It's frequent, but quick and easy. The added benefit is the car is always looking fresh and clean and we are saving boat loads of water.

Granted I use water when running all the towels through the wash, but I still think overall it's significant water savings. I also love that I can just do it in my garage, regardless of weather or time of day outside. All arround I give waterless washing :thumbup::thumbup:

While we are on the subject, can you recommend something for wheel cleaning and perhaps coating? So that the brake dust comes off easy peasy the next time around? Do you waterless wash the wheels also? Or do you just hit those with the occasional water wash?

I don't want to blast your R thread with detail material so feel free to respond via PM if you prefer.

Thanks!
I can't do half as jobs when it comes to car care thus why I got into detailing. That's why I rather waterless wash my R often instead of letting it build up and have to bust out the power washer, foam cannon, three buckets (one is for wheels) and all that stuff to wash it, then dry it with the metro dryer and towels and after all that two hours have passed. I can waterless it in less than 30 minutes if I'm taking my sweet ass time or 15 if I'm in a hurry and don't mind moving fast and breaking a sweat haha.

As long as you use a bunch of quality towels and know when a car is too dirty for waterless washing and you should step up to rinseless or bust out the buckets and hose it's a great way to keep a car looking great with little effort.

If you want to try another great waterless product give Meguiar's D115 a shot. I REALLY love this stuff and it actually beat out UWW+ as my favorite after I did a six way waterless wash comparison (I posted that review on a few detailing forums). UWW+ is still great and I use it too but D115 has the edge on it in how slick and safe it feels while wiping dust and light dirt off and with the amount of slickness and shine in leaves behind. I still think UWW+ is an awesome choice and don't have anything bad to say about it but D115 just stepped it up a notch making it my new favorite. You mentioned smell and D115 wins there too, smells like blueberries. Meg's only sells D115 in gallon form but thankfully autoality.com sells a 32oz sampler size of the concentrate. It mixes at 4:1 so that 32oz of concentrate for $20 makes 160oz of usable waterless wash at the full strength ratio and can be further diluted down to taste using more water. https://www.autoality.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=6570&idcategory=0

Another waterless releated tip I'm not sure if I mentioned before on autopia via PM but don't buy microfiber towels from the typical detailing shops online. Buy them direct from the importers like www.microfibertech.com and www.stocktowelsnow.com the prices are MUCH better and the towels are the same ones you'll in some cases pay double for from the detailing shops.

For wheels in the past I would have said Adam's quick sealant (which is still good and I have it on my truck still with no real complaints) but I've found better. Currently I have the Chemical Guys combo of black light and V7 on my wheels and it's working well for me since I was focused more on looks than long term super strong durability, I don't mind adding a new coat here and there. I do however have ceramic pads now so my pad dust is WAY WAY less than stock making my wheels easier to clean. What I'd use if I still had stock pads would be sonax polymer net shield. I have it on the paint of my truck and it's awesome. It's amazing how it pretty much repels water. Do a youtube search for it and watch the videos of how it reacts to water. It will make cleaning wheels WAY easier and you won't need any harsh wheel cleaners like Sonax full effect which is the go to wheel cleaner for VW, Audi and BMWs with absurdly dusty pads.

Speaking of wheel cleaners once you seal them with something like net shield or any other wheel sealant, wax or coating of your choice you no longer need to use harsh wheel cleaners if you clean them more often. I gave up on full effect and switched to Chemical Guys Diablo and like it much better. Partly because I changed to ceramic pads but also because full effect is way overkill for wheels that are cleaned often. Diablo is a concentrate so you can dilute it to where you need it depending on how dirty your wheels are and it's much less aggressive a cleaner that won't strip off a sealant on the wheels as fast as other wheel cleaners will. Of course it will eventually strip it off as will and shampoo, soap or wheel cleaner over time but the point is it won't do it in two or three washes like full effect can depending on what sealant is used since they have all different durability levels. It also smells like bubble gum as a bonus. Always nice to work with cleaning products that smell good rather than horrible chemical odors.

I do waterless wash my wheels most times with either D115 or UWW+ but that's also the part of my car I've actually washed with a hose a few times too. For waterless I use black towels to keep them from getting stained and disgusting and I wrap them around my wheel woolies to get inside the barrels. Works pretty well.
 

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Another waterless releated tip I'm not sure if I mentioned before on autopia via PM but don't buy microfiber towels from the typical detailing shops online. Buy them direct from the importers like www.microfibertech.com and www.stocktowelsnow.com the prices are MUCH better and the towels are the same ones you'll in some cases pay double for from the detailing shops.
This is awesome. Thanks for pointing this out.

I to have become a big fan of the waterless wash. I live in TX, and trying to wash your car in the driveway with a hose is impossible in the summer months. I can waterless wash in my garage in the shade, and love it.

Like you my car is low miles (5K in 12 months) and I wash every week with the waterless. This combo keeps it looking great. Even if you don't have low miles, the waterless weekly is still the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
This is awesome. Thanks for pointing this out.

I to have become a big fan of the waterless wash. I live in TX, and trying to wash your car in the driveway with a hose is impossible in the summer months. I can waterless wash in my garage in the shade, and love it.

Like you my car is low miles (5K in 12 months) and I wash every week with the waterless. This combo keeps it looking great. Even if you don't have low miles, the waterless weekly is still the way to go.
The 600gsm and 700gsm from microfiber tech are great for waterless and that's what I use on my R.

Working in the garage is another reason I like waterless too, especially since my garage has a/c and heat so I can alway make it the perfect temp.
 

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Hey XSSIVE,

Thanks for all the great advice, I am so happy with the Ultima Waterless Wash + that it's hard to believe Meguiar's D115 is even better. But I will take your word for it and definitely turn to it soon. I just got a concentrate bottle of the UWW+ so I can't say I will go for Meguiar's D115 right away, but it's on my list of "up next".

One thing I should note is UWW+ is advertised as protecting from UV rays which I absolutely need for the clear bra to not become dull and yellow when left out in the sun. Meguiar's D115 does not seem to advertise that, do you know if it has UV protecting qualities to it?

I have heard great things about Sonax and the full effect cleaner. Hopefully I can do one pass of that which is a wet wash, then apply the Sonax Polymer Netshield and waterless wash the wheels from there also. After watching the youtube videos I almost want to just use it on paint, but as you already know I have a clear bra on the entire front end of the car and don't want to experiment with that.

I will definitely look at those links when time comes for more microfiber towels and I will try some 600-700 GSM towels, I think right now I am using 350 GSM Eurow towels and do not feel or see any issues. I did try some 660 GSM Eurow shags and did not find them to be particularly better at safe removal over the 350. I do use a good amount of the waterless wash so ensure easy removal, I am also not shy about using as many towels as I need to ensure I am only passing clean sections over every time.

Thanks again for all the great advice. You're R looks freaking amazing, keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
Hey XSSIVE,

Thanks for all the great advice, I am so happy with the Ultima Waterless Wash + that it's hard to believe Meguiar's D115 is even better. But I will take your word for it and definitely turn to it soon. I just got a concentrate bottle of the UWW+ so I can't say I will go for Meguiar's D115 right away, but it's on my list of "up next".

One thing I should note is UWW+ is advertised as protecting from UV rays which I absolutely need for the clear bra to not become dull and yellow when left out in the sun. Meguiar's D115 does not seem to advertise that, do you know if it has UV protecting qualities to it?

I have heard great things about Sonax and the full effect cleaner. Hopefully I can do one pass of that which is a wet wash, then apply the Sonax Polymer Netshield and waterless wash the wheels from there also. After watching the youtube videos I almost want to just use it on paint, but as you already know I have a clear bra on the entire front end of the car and don't want to experiment with that.

I will definitely look at those links when time comes for more microfiber towels and I will try some 600-700 GSM towels, I think right now I am using 350 GSM Eurow towels and do not feel or see any issues. I did try some 660 GSM Eurow shags and did not find them to be particularly better at safe removal over the 350. I do use a good amount of the waterless wash so ensure easy removal, I am also not shy about using as many towels as I need to ensure I am only passing clean sections over every time.

Thanks again for all the great advice. You're R looks freaking amazing, keep up the good work!
No need to rush out and buy D115 but it's worth a shot when you run out of UWW+. Yes D115 has a form of UV protection.

You can use net shield on your wheels paint and the clear bra, no problem there. Phil at detailers domain has recommended it over clear bras in several threads I read when I was researching the product before I tried it on my truck. It will protect it even better since net shield is the closest thing to water repellent out there for cars. You can then still waterless wash it as you have been and stuff cleans off even easier since it doesn't stick all that well to net shield.

As for towels I like the 600 and 700gsm best since both sides have the same type of longer nap that is safer for waterless washing since it traps the dirt up in the fibers rather than rubbing it it like a short nap or waffle weave could. Also by having matching length nap on both sides when you fold the towels in half and half again you get 8 sides of the same nap to use where other towels will have a shorter nap on one side which isn't good for waterless use needing more towels to get the job done.

The more waterless product you spray and the more towels you use the safer it is.
 
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