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How to replace the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module [TOC, Photos done]

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157K views 107 replies 24 participants last post by  fofessor  
#1 · (Edited)
My Phaeton is equipped with the power opening and closing trunk lid (production code 4E7). This is a nifty little option that raises and lowers the trunk lid hydraulically when the drivers presses the appropriate button on the car. My wife likes it, because she is kind of short and this makes it easier to close the trunk lid.
Anyway - this gadget stopped working a few weeks ago. It kind of died a slow death - at first, the power open and close function became intermittent but we could still operate the trunk lid manually, and eventually, the whole thing died, which meant that the electrically operated trunk latch would not engage when the trunk lid was closed. Although the lid stayed in the closed position, the annunciator light in the instrument panel was always on, indicating that the latch was not engaged.
I dropped by my VW dealer to ask for some help, and they did a diagnostic scan of my Phaeton. This returned a fault code stored in the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module, which is a slave controller to the J393 Central Control Module for the Comfort System (you can see the Phaeton convenience system network topology at this post: Convenience System Controllers). The fault code stored was "00317 - Rear Lid Control Module (J605) 014 - Defective", which was pretty definitive. So, the Phaeton technician at my VW dealer ordered a new control module. It showed up 3 days later, and he sent me an email inviting me to drop by whenever I wanted, because it would not take very long to replace this part.
He was kind enough to allow me to take some pictures of the part and the disassembly process, here they are, in step by step format, in case anyone has a similar problem in the future.
1) Lower the big panel in the 'roof' of the trunk compartment, to allow you to get access to all the electronic controllers.
This panel is held in place by 9 Torx head screws. 7 of the screws are around the perimeter of the panel, 2 are located in the middle of the panel. The screws are all covered with a black flock finish, to match the panel, and finding the screws is a bit like looking for a black cat in a coal mine at night. You need quite a bright worklight to find them.
When you have all the screws removed, the panel will lower. It is hinged at its forward edge.
Image

2) Remove and replace the controller module.
This is very quick and easy, it is 'plug and play'. Like most other control modules in the Phaeton, it is easiest to remove the electrical connector first, then physically remove the module. When installing the new module, put it in place first, then plug it in second.
The first hint we had that things were going well was when the trunk lights illuminated as soon as the new controller was installed. It seems that operation of the trunk lights, as well as latch operation, raising and lowering the trunk lid, and pinch protection are all controlled from the J605 module.
Image

3) Adapt the new module, so it knows the position of the trunk lid when it is fully open and fully closed.
Most controller modules in the Phaeton need to be 'adapted' whenever a new control module is installed. Adaptation is the process of familiarizing the module with the signals coming from the components that it controls, so that it can properly operate them. It's exactly the same process as what you do when you set new tire pressures in your TPMS - what you are doing is 'adapting' the TPMS to the new pressures, so it knows what the acceptable range is.
To adapt the J605 module, open address 46 (the J393 Central Control Module for the Comfort System), select function 10, adaptation, and go to channel 22. Close the trunk lid (it won't latch, but put it in the fully closed position) and then re-enter 0 (zero) as the adaptation value. Next, move the trunk lid to the fully open position, go to channel 23, and re-enter 0 (zero) as the adaptation value. Now you have defined the extreme limits of movement of the trunk lid, and the new module will work perfectly.
It is important to note that the new module will not work at all unless you adapt it. This is not mentioned in the Phaeton service manual, because it is assumed to be common knowledge for every control module. Also, note that you cannot directly address the J605 module, because it is a slave to the J393. This is why you open the J393 controller (address 46) when you want to adapt the trunk lid control module.
Anyway - the trunk lid now works perfectly. It was a quick and easy fix.
Michael
 
#3 ·
Re: How to replace the J605 Trunk Lid Control Module (Maxt2)

Quote, originally posted by Maxt2 »
...are you connected to VWoA in any way, PanEuropean?

No, not in any way at all, however remote. I like VW products, and have owned 7 others (Golfs and Jettas) before I bought my Phaeton. I am fascinated by the quality of the Phaeton - the careful thought that went into the design and engineering, the amazing build quality, and how well the car performs. I also like taking it apart and putting it back together again.
I am also very fortunate to have a wonderful VW dealer, where all the staff share my enthusiasm. When I call up to make a service appointment, their first question is usually "Would you like us to do the service for you, or would you prefer to do it yourself in your favorite work-bay?"
By profession, I am an aircraft pilot and engineer, and the aviation safety manager for a large humanitarian organization.
Michael
 
#4 ·
Trunk Adaptation on existing control module?

Michael,

I realize that this is an old thread, however I am having trunk open and close issues. I tried resetiing as described in other threads to no avail. Could the original Control Module ever need re-adapted? The reason I ask is that under the Vag-Com, when I test the trunk lid, it works with no problem. When I remove the Vag and use the key, door switch, or the microswitch, it acts as though it never worked before? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Mike
 
#5 ·
Could the original Control Module ever need re-adapted?
Yes, for sure. Just open up the label file for controller 46 (the trunk lid control module is a slave controller to the central comfort control module, which is 46) and read the instructions for adaptation contained in the label file. I wrote them myself... :p

The label file for that control module is entitled "3D0-959-933.lbl", and it is probably located at the path "C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Labels" on your computer. It is a simple text file, open it up with any text editor such as Notepad or Wordpad.

Michael
 
#6 ·
I actually took the thread advise and reprogrammed the key fob. This has worked so far. Imagine pulling the trunk up manually for the past 6 months because I was too lazy to start reading threads! It is still working:thumbup: If this fails, I may reprogram.

I can now once again have my 5 year old son stand behind the car and say "Phaeton" into the emblem to get the truck to open. He gets a big kick out of thinking his voice is programmed to do this and has no idea I have the keyfob in my hand. Its good laugh and makes me smile everytime he does it:D

Thanks once again for the advise.

Mike
 
#7 ·
In reading through this label (I am also having a trunk-not-opening situation), I ran across one Measured Value Block that I had to do a double-take:

028,0,Emergency Signals relating to trunk operation
028,1,E406 - New Jersey,escape handle,Possible display: operated/not operated/not installed - (only applies to basic lock)
028,2,Pinch signal,trunk,Possible display: operated/not operated/implausable signal/not installed - (only applies to basic lock)
028,3,Position of,trunk lid,Range: Between 0 degrees and about 30 degrees - 30 is closed
028,4,Nationality of,body in trunk,Possible display:Italian/Russian/Colombian/ex-wife/Jimmy Hoffa/no body detected

:p
 
#9 · (Edited)
Trunk Module cost?

Michael,


I have run into some issues with my trunk. The lock mechanism got stuck in locked position and the trunk would not fully close. For the pat year of so I have been taking to a local shop to do oil changes, etc since neither VW dealer in San Antonio would work on it (no certified tech) and I'd have to go to Austin (80 miles) to the dealer there. So they fixed the trunk latch assembly ($400 + labor), but after the replacement they could not get the trunk release, key fob, or emblem button on trunk to work. I would only work via inserting the key into the trunk. I used the trunk twice (manually with the key), second time it totally locked up and I could not get into the trunk. And it was ticking like a time bomb and every so often you could hear the new latch mechanism clicking. It did this even when the car was off and no key around so I took it back in. Now they think it is the trunk module, which they say needs to come from the dealer to program, etc which they cannot do. Only took 2 weeks to get this answer (separate frustration/discussion). Luckily, Rod East one of the dealers in San Antonio agreed to look at it. How much will a trunk module set me back before I run to the dealer? Also any other thoughts? My wife is on the verge of making me get rid of it. It has been a real pain to get it serviced in SA. A few months ago it took a month to get 3 windows fixed about someone tried breaking into it or vandalize my poor phaeton.

Also I think he said he could only get the trunk module to come up on the vag-com once before it would lock up

Troy
 
#10 · (Edited)
Hello Troy:

The trunk lid control module is a slave controller to controller 46, the Central Control for Comfort System. To the best of my knowledge, it does not need any "programming", it is just a remove and replace operation.

The controller needs to be adapted once it is installed, but the adaptation deals with the minute differences in physical dimensions and friction that exist from one trunk lid to another (one car to another). That is identical in concept to adapting power windows. The adaptation can be carried out with a VAG-COM (VCDS) scan tool, and is fully described in the notes contained in label file. Look for the label file on the computer that is used for the scan tool, it will be in a folder called Ross-Tech located at the root level of the drive, the file name is 3D0-959-933.lbl. Label files are nothing more than text files, so, open the file with Notepad and read it.

Towards the bottom of that label file (about 90% of the way to the end) you will find the following:

A022,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - closed position
;
A023,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - open position
;
;Remark: The above two functions are used whenever a new J605 controller is installed.
;Once the J605 has been adapted, it can usually be re-adapted (if it becomes confused, for example,
;by activation of pinch protection, or changing direction in the middle of a cycle) by simply moving
;- by hand - the trunk lid to the fully open position, then pressing the 'trunk lid release' button
;on the key fob remote, and observing that the two tail-lights blink in recognition. Once that is done,
;the trunk lid can then be closed by pressing the close button located on the bottom lip of the trunk lid.
;It should not be necessary to have to use a scan tool to re-adapt a confused trunk lid mechanism.
;
A024,0,Adaptation of J605 controller (motorized trunk lid) - Range of Motion
A24,05,This procedure is used to allow the hydraulic trunk lid mechanism to learn
A24,06,the full range of motion available to it. Follow these steps:
A24,07, 1 - Start the engine and leave it running for the duration of the procedure.
A24,08, 2 - Place the trunk lid in the two-thirds open position.
A24,09, 3 - Make sure there are no objects or cables in the way of the trunk lid closing.
A24,10, 4 - WARNING - Pinch Protection is inhibited during this adaptation procedure!
A24,11, 5 - Enter, test, and save a value of 0 (zero) in channel 24.
A24,12, 6 - The lid will open fully, then close fully. Stay out of its way!
A24,13, The adaptation procedure is now complete.


You might want to try doing this before you buy a new control module. It is possible that simply re-adapting your J605 will solve the problem. When the J605 broke on my car, it gave a very clear fault code: "J605 defective", or words to that effect.

Michael
 
#12 ·
Hello, could this adaptation need to be done if the batteries are disconnected for several days? My on tech package trunk will pop open if I hit either the key fob or switch in the driver door. But when I press the trunk closed, I don't hear that mechanical closing locking noise. It stays closed just fine but whatever that noise is (maybe a second more secure hook) doesn't happen. The fuse is fine. Thanks.



Jordan.
 
#14 ·
Hello, could this adaptation need to be done if the batteries are disconnected for several days?
Hi Jordan:

I expect so. I know, for sure, that in the case of moving components such as the power windows, power seat, steering wheel, and sunroof, if you have the batteries disconnected for one second, that's long enough to heed to have to re-adapt all these moving parts. I can't imagine that the trunk would be any different.

There is a post in the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category) that discusses the adaptation process more thoroughly - just search for the key word 'adapt' (not adaptation) on the FAQ page. I think the post is called "How to Adapt Moving Components".

Michael
 
#13 ·
weirdly I had" trunk"( us brits prefer boot) issue this week. went to Tesco, all ok, came to flick the switch on the drivers for at my mum's and nothing... neither remote blip or microswitch would work. for some reason Windows updates had messed up my vcds from working so I was resigned to a few weeks messing when I got chance. however today I tried something, on pressing the remote unlock I could hear the lock mechanism moving so I " helped" the trunk to rise and it seemed to all sort Itself out again. all options now fully functional...
 
#15 ·
Adapting the controller

Hello!

PanEuropean, do you know a way i can adapt the j605 controller via VAS? I tried everything, but it has only a self adaption menu item, but that does nothing. Is it possible that it can be only adapted via VAG-COM?

Sincerely, Frigyes
 
#16 ·
Hi Frigyes,

Welcome to the forum! Michael/PanEuropean is currently away on business, but I can perhaps help.

According to VWoA Technical Bulletin C 55-06-01, the VAS procedure is this:

1. Make sure the batteries are fully charged.
2. Connect VAS 5051 or VAS 5052.
3. Go to address 46 (Convenience module).
4. Manually open the rear lid to the two-thirds open position.
5. Go to 10-adaptation.
6. Enter channel 24 and press enter (Q).
7. Make sure that there are no physical obstructions that will prevent the lid closing.
8. Press 0 and save.
-- The rear lid will now begin to relearn its travel path and latch operation --

I do not have a VAS, so I cannot verify this for you, but please do report back your results.

If the Convenience Controller and Trunk Lid module are both functioning properly and there are no battery or power supply issues (which may well turn out to be the real problem) then simply manually opening the lid part way then using the remote fob to command it to open and close a couple of times will often reset normal operation.

The trunk lid cables will eventually fray on many pre-2009 Phaetons, which can also cause unexpected lid operation.

Chris
 
#26 ·
Ok, well, i gave time and a lot tries to the problem, but still cant make it happen. I ran a some checks with my VAS 5054 and everything is fine with the controller J605. No problem, only the "Missing default settings" which i understand. But cant make it happen and the problem is, according to the test, that the G383 hydraulic valve sensors state is unreadable. I think thats why it wont start the automatic settings. When i start the adaptation process, the latching mechanism moves, but the lid wont start. Any idea? I dont know where is the G383 and where to check the wires for shortage or stg... :confused::what:

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Frici
 
#18 ·
Hello, same trunk issue here, V8 2004. Trunk can't be opened from the driver's door nor the key unit yet it opened using the emblem. Checking the vehicle history, battaries were changed twice and the last time the vehicle was towed to the Shop. We'll take a better look today in the Shop and report.

Truely delighted to see all this enthusiasm and assistance that many provide for the new commers like my self.

Regards,

Salah
 
#19 ·
Hi Salah,

Welcome to the forum. I can see by your posts that you have been researching your problem here.

There are many threads that will help you, and I expect you will have searched the TOC sticky to find information on how to check and possibly repair the cable loom that enters the trunk lid through the tube and cassette arrangement. The TOC pages are best searched using your browser text search facility, usually by pressing Ctrl-F in the browser.

Chris
 
#21 ·
Peculiar situation at hand. After tens of tries the trunk failed to open by remot key, failed to open from the door switch, opened once by the actual key and opened randomly by the emblem. Changed the lock unit and the problem presisted. The "open trunk" light still on! That means all the lights inside the trunk are on! Could it be that the emblem switch has a problem?
 
#24 ·
It's generally safest to stick with the original VW parts, unless you know from experience (or someone else's experience) that an aftermarket part is fully satisfactory.

Those gas struts are not expensive, I'd recommend you just get the VW ones - we're not dealing with hundreds of dollars of savings here.

Apropos of aftermarket parts - you mentioned that your batteries have been replaced - have a look at this discussion: Battery Replacement Procedure, then check and see if the replacement batteries are genuine VW batteries. If you have low voltage problems as a result of using a battery that does not meet VW specs, you will have literally dozens of headaches, week after week, month after month, and it will cost you thousands of dollars and many hours of frustration. The one part on the car that you should absolutely, positively never substitute with an aftermarket part is the left hand battery. So, go take a look at your left hand battery, if it does not look like the larger battery (lower battery) in the picture below, get a genuine VW battery that is identical to the one in the picture below and install it before you go any further. It will probably cost you about $200.

Michael

Original Equipment VW Batteries
Image
 
#23 ·
Hi Salah:

I believe that what you have to do now is investigate what is called "paths of influence" in order to RULE OUT certain components as potential causes of your problem. If you don't first RULE OUT (in other words, remove from consideration as possible causes of the problem) various individual components, you run the risk of randomly replacing different components without knowing ahead of time if the particular component you are replacing is, in fact, the cause of the problem. This undesirable approach to fault-finding is referred to as "shotgunning", and it is not a cost-effective way to proceed.

Let's start by defining what we know:

1) The trunk lid can (normally) be operated mechanically, using the key blade in the trunk key lock, or electrically, by one of three methods: the pushbutton on a key fob, the switch on the driver door, and (presuming you have the hydraulically powered trunk lid) by pushing on the VW logo on the outside of the trunk lid. In North America, there is a fourth method, using an emergency opening lever which is inside the trunk cavity.

2) If there is a failure of the J605 trunk control module, the three electrical methods won't work, but the mechanical method should work.

3) If there is a failure of the latching mechanism (which is entirely separate from the J605 trunk control module), it is possible that none of the methods (electrical or mechanical) will work.

4) If the central comfort controller (controller 46) is improperly coded (for example, it is coded to tell the car that a hydraulically powered trunk lid is not installed when in fact one is installed), the electrical methods will not work.

All the above is a priori knowledge. What follows below is our collective a posteriori knowledge:

5) We know that the J605 trunk controller fails occasionally, but the mechanical latching mechanism rarely fails.

6) We know that if the hydraulically powered trunk lid gets badly out of sync, the electrical methods will not work, but no parts are defective, we only need to re-adapt (re-train) the closing mechanism. That is something that can be done without tools.

7) We know that if the left battery is in a low voltage condition, all sorts of things on the car stop working, the trunk lid being one of them.

8) Finally, we know that the J605 trunk controller has built-in fault detection and fault reporting capability.

---------------------

So, in order to approach the problem in a logical and efficient manner, we need to look at all of the factors that influence operation of the trunk lid, but before starting work, we need to make a list of these factors, then sort the list out in an order that does not necessarily reflect probability, but works from the "broadest brush" to the most narrow investigation. Our sort order will be further influenced by how easy or difficult it is to assess each factor. In other words, a certain path of influence that might not be highly probable, but can be validated or ruled out in 30 seconds with no tools at all will probably be sorted so that it is investigated prior to a factor that is more probable but requires more work, tools, or money to assess.

Here's how I suggest you proceed:

First and foremost, read all the information here in the forum that pertains to trunk lid problems, and become familiar with the difference between the baseline trunk lid (no hydraulic opening and closing) and the hydraulically assisted trunk lid option. Here is a partial list of what you should read:

How to open the Trunk Lid (electrically, using the pushbutton on the trunk lid logo)
....How to open the Trunk Lid (manually, using the key)
....How to reset the power trunk lid when it gets out of synch
....Trunk will not open... (essential reading, this explains the valet lockout button) disregard the valet lockout button stuff, that applies to North American cars only
....Trunk will not close...
....Trunk opens by itself.

Trunk Lid Requires Excessive Effort to Close (4E2 or 4E8, not the power operated one)
Trunk - Power Trunk Lid Troubleshooting
....Microswitch behind Trunk Lid Logo (for opening power trunk) does not work
Trunk - Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid

Now that you have read all that (it will take an hour or two), proceed as follows:

A) Confirm whether your vehicle has the hydraulically powered trunk lid (production code 4E7) or the baseline trunk lid (production code 4E2). The easiest way to do this is visual inspection. See post #11 at this discussion: Trunk Lid Requires Excessive Effort to Close An alternative way of determining this, if you cannot get the lid open to look at the hinges, is to look at the production code sticker in your owner manual, or to ask your VW dealer to print out a production code list for your vehicle. See this post for more information: Understanding Phaeton Production Codes & Build Stickers. From here on in, I'm going to assume you have the hydraulically powered trunk lid. If you don't, stop after the first paragraph in point B) below.

B) Determine if the Central Comfort Controller (controller 46) is reporting any fault codes. The J605 trunk lid controller is a slave of the central comfort controller, therefore, any faults reported by the J605 will appear under controller 46. To do this, you need a diagnostic scan tool. You can use a VAG-COM (an aftermarket tool made by Ross-Tech), or you can have your VW dealer do this using their VW diagnostic scan tool (VAS 5051, 5052, or subsequent).

At the same time, determine if the Central Comfort Controller (controller 46) is properly coded. If you have the hydraulically powered trunk lid, controller 46 should be coded 0000040.

If you discover a fault code such as 'Controller - Defective', well, that kind of ends the troubleshooting right there. If not, continue as follows:

C) Start the engine of your car, then determine (again, using the diagnostic scan tool, this time by looking at a measured value block or MVB) if the voltage present on the central comfort controller is more or less 14 volts. More or less 14 volts is ideal, anything above 13 volts will do, anything below 13 volts is a significant problem - in other words, low voltage is probably what is causing your trunk problems. Leave the engine running for the balance of the troubleshooting, this to keep the voltage levels up! An alternative to leaving the engine running would be to hook up a battery maintainer, see this post for more information about Battery Maintainers: Purchasing and using a Battery Maintainer for your Phaeton. The battery maintainer needs to be capable of putting out a minimum of 10 amps at or above 13 amps.

D) Using the diagnostic scan tool, and with the engine of the car running (or robust battery maintainer hooked up), open controller 46, go to MVB 16-2. Press the big VW emblem on the outside of the trunk lid exactly in the middle, where the horizontal line is between the letters V and W (see post #14 in this discussion for the exact location to press: Trunk - Power Trunk Lid Troubleshooting). You should see the MVB status on the diagnostic scan tool change as you press and release the logo. If you listen very carefully, you will hear the microswitch click. If you don't see the MVB status change, that could mean a busted logo microswitch OR a problem with the J605 controller.

E) Look at MVBs in group 26 of controller 46, this will tell you the status of the trunk lid as the vehicle perceives it to be. See if this matches the actual physical position of the lid and operating state of the lid.

F) Look at MVBs in group 27 of controller 46, this will tell you the status of the trunk latching mechanism as the vehicle perceives it to be. See if this matches the actual physical state of the trunk latch.

G) Check your VIN, if it ends with 7666 or lower, confirm that criteria 16 of Campaign 97J9 has been carried out. Your VW dealer can check this using their service record computer system. Alternatively, look for a small sticker in your spare tire well indicating that Campaign 97J9 has been carried out.

------------------

Once you have done all the above, if you have not by then succeeded in identifying the cause of the problem, let us know.

Finally - you commented in a post above that you assumed that "The "open trunk" light still on! That means all the lights inside the trunk are on!" That's actually not true. The car is smarter than you give it credit to be. If the trunk is left open for more than about 15 minutes and no other activity is taking place with the vehicle (no doors being opened or closed, no switches being operated, etc.) the car will turn the trunk light off automatically, even if the trunk lid is open (or believed by the car to be open).

Michael
 
#27 ·
Hi Frici,

To inspect the cables, remove the screws and fittings on the trunk lid trim and pull off the lid lining. It has to be pulled off with some force. The screws are different lengths, so remember where each goes. Cables can fray or break inside the cassette and at either end of the tube which manages the movement of the loom as the lid opens and shuts.

The cause of the problem is thought to be the fish-net mesh that surrounds the loom wires. This mesh catches and jams up, causing the wires to be restricted. Some owners discard the mesh, cutting it away using a modelling knife.

The loom can be repaired, or replaced; see the TOC thread that Michael included in his comprehensive advice above in post #23 :

Broken Sleeve on Electrical Harness leading to Trunk Lid How to fix TOC Photos done

It is usual for owners to lubricate the loom using dry PTFE spray to prevent re-occurrence. Do not use silicone spray. Also, please note Michael's warning about the possibility of breaking the rear window glass by ignoring failure of the tube assembly.

Chris
 
#28 ·
Thank you for the reply, im quite familiar now with the cables and i can now remove the lining with a blindfold, but dont know which is the G383 module. with that knowledge, i could find the wire responsible for the hydraulic valve and maybe check on it directly. Did a basic checkup on wires, had some frayed ones, repaired that, thats why i removed the J605. Thats now ok, but cant make the hydraulic valve to function properly.

Frici
 
#29 ·
Hi Frici,

Sorry, I did not intend to insult you with information which you know well!

I am guessing that the G383 lid hydraulic sensor is the wired part shown in the photo below, screwed into the pump outlet. The hydraulics unit is only available as a complete assembly to include the pressure lines and left and right cylinders, so perhaps that is why the sensor is not referenced as an separate VW part number.

According to the manual it is accessed by removing the RH side panel and the lower 'avionics' shelf, first disconnecting the controller equipment attached to the shelf. This sounds to me like a simple description for a lengthy job.

Chris


PS - Frici, please can you fill in your Forum profile (see the sticky on page 1) so that your approximate location or country and the car model are available in your posts in various threads? This helps when folks research pieces of information. I know you gave us this information before, but it is buried in previous posts.



Trunk Lid Hydraulics and Hinges
Image

image (c) eBay

Inside the Hydraulics Unit foam package, showing sensor
Image

image (c) eBay
 
#30 ·
I did not felt insulted at any way! I am sorry that you felt that!

I am disappointed only, cause i cant figure it out whats the problem with my trunk :/

Thank you for the pics, the VAS5054 told me to check the g383 wiring, i have to remove the 6pin connector and mesure the voltage. Simply cant find it :D Hope your pics help, iw ill reply with results soon.

Thanks again, Frici

PS, i filled the informations about myself, thanks for warning, i tought i did that already