Re: What's the point of coolant running through the throttle body? (Nick2002GLI)

no answer.
but ill chime in and say mine were bypassed.

 

FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by Nick2002GLI »

What are the pro's and con's of removing the coolant lines from the throttle body and bypassing them?

It is used for heating the throttle body. Keeping the throttle body warm prevents moisture from freezing during the winter. So I guess this helps in Canada... Last time I removed my throttle body I bypassed it.

 

Prevents the throttle body from freezing. If it never gets to freezing where you live, it is safe to remove it.

 

Re: (apstguy)

So does that have anything to do with why some cars don't behave well before they have reached operating temp in the winter?

 

I don't think so. What do you mean by "behave well"? Mine ran fine in Yosemite earlier this year at 18 degrees F. These engines do seem tempermental about outside temp though, it feels like I lose 20hp every time it is above 78F outside. It drops colder at night and suddenly I have more horsepower.

 

Mine feels the same, on warm days seems lacking in power, but on cold days, goes like a rocket, whats that all about?

 

Re: (apstguy)

i mean when its below 0 cold

 

Re: (jefswat)

This is an interesting topic. My father told me not to mess with it because ice cold potentially form in there over time when driving in cold conditions.
But I only travel north once a year and live in HELL (southern Ga.) so I definitely bypassed mine for now, and have encountered zero problems.

Oh yeah and amen on the running like a dog when its warm out. Oh but when its cold out.....

 

Re: (coatofarms)

What's the benefit of bypassing it? I'm guessing in theory you're not warming the intake air, but has anyone dynoed it?

 

Re: (tungub)

SO how can I bypass it? I am really considering this. I have cld air intake..... It defeats the point of having c.a. Intake If the throttle body is hot.

 

Just cap the lines or stick a brass ball valve on one of them so if you go where it is cold, just turn a lever and it is heated once again.

 

Re: (apstguy)

Won't tht I terupt the main flow of coolant or these r secondary flow lines?

 

Re: (jediv6)

Quote, originally posted by jediv6 »

Mine feels the same, on warm days seems lacking in power, but on cold days, goes like a rocket, whats that all about?

cold air is more dense than hot air. the more air/fuel (correct ratio) you can cram into the cylinder the more power you make. that's how forced induction works. forcing air into the motor. and getting too hot increases knock and detonation, and the ignition timing will retard and you lose power. with no knock or detonation you won't pull timing. (intake temp sensor reading too warm can pull timing too) hence using a intercooler and water/methanol injection on a forced induction car.
how to make power 101
oh, and delete the coolant lines. that was a factory mistake.


Modified by VEE-DUBBER at 12:35 AM 7-13-2009

 

They are not critical to coolant flow, they are much to small to effect the main cooling system.
You should NOT just delete them if it EVER gets near freezing where you live or drive as your throttle valve could ice shut. All modern vehicles run coolant through the throttle body, VW is no different. This is no "factory mistake". There is always a reason behind the madness.
This engine seems more temperature temperamental than any other car I have ever driven. Small changes in temperature drastically changes the way the engine behaves. Typical VW quirk

Modified by apstguy at 2:08 AM 7-13-2009

 

They are not critical to coolant flow, they are much to small to effect the main cooling system.
You should NOT just delete them if it EVER gets near freezing where you live or drive as your throttle valve could ice shut. All modern vehicles run coolant through the throttle body, VW is no different. This is no "factory mistake". There is always a reason behind the madness.
This engine seems more temperature temperamental than any other car I have ever driven. Small changes in temperature drastically changes the way the engine behaves. Typical VW quirk

Modified by apstguy at 2:08 AM 7-13-2009

Well if u know that coolant have charge and it's also reverse in polarity by the way that's why some of the parts related to the throttle body rust its because rust it come from oxigen and oxigen its - charge atract to positive charge in the coolant since that I mentioned in first want coolant cross the negative field that runs the block , became coolant became positive, now why its that happening its because the cold air its more boost end u see more power if you delete that coolant from the throttle body now will atract to + air and its 73 % nitrogen that's why cold air its more power the more cold it gets more power the more hot I gets loss power why its that . When its cold contract/vx hot expend and when expend loses pressure because of heat and heat its be cause oxigen , that's why when u forging metal the furnace need lots oxigen into to get hot, we don't want to the engine to be hot , will lose power, cold its the way

 

Re: (apstguy)

mine are gone. live in NEPA. know a lot of people who have gotten rid of them in the PA/NJ area, never heard anyone having any problems.

 

I bypassed my throttle body coolant line and my CHECK ENGINE light turned off..

WEIRD... I used to have the O2 sensor bank 1 code coming up....

 

When the cat starts to go bad the O2 codes will randomly go away and then come back. My light turned off for several months, but a couple weeks ago has been on pretty consistently again. I don't see any reason why it would CAUSE the light to go off. False association here.


Modified by apstguy at 10:26 PM 7-13-2009

 

Re: (apstguy)

my car doesn't have a single symptom of a bad O2 sensor. i get good gas mileage. 330 full tank. My car runs smoother than ever. And i've had that code for about a year and half. no 2 years.

 

Re: (apstguy)

these past 2 years i NEVER had a single sign of a bad a cat or 02 sensor

 

Re: (Nick2002GLI)

That doesn't make sense, you say you haven't had the code in two years but the TB bypass cleared it? You need to clarify.

 

Re: (apstguy)

HaD the code on for 2 years. Did te tb bypass today. No code..... Over the two years I had th code. My car never showed any symptoms or signs of a bad sensor or a bad cat conv. It runs smooth..... Great gas mileage.... Everytime I would put in a fuel treatmeant back in the day the light would turn off... Turn back on a moth later....

 

My car shows no symptoms of a bad cat but the constant O2 codes. A failing cat will show no symptoms but failing an emissions test or the O2 codes you are currently getting. Every once and a while the might smell like rotten eggs when failing, but more modern cars don't do that often.
Also, if the rear oxygen sensor goes bad, there will be no telling except for the MIL. The rear sensor only tells the ECU that the cat is working. and controls nothing on the car.
Your code will be back, just a matter of time.
Have you ever performed oxygen sensor aging tests? How was your last emissions test (if you have them where you live)?


Modified by apstguy at 12:01 AM 7-14-2009

 

Re: (apstguy)

I am confused... U think it's the cat or a sensor? I never had any smells... Mine is a 2002 gli. My code showed sensor bank 1.

 

It could be either. The code are indicative of one or the other.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...01056

 

Re: (apstguy)

what is the benfit of bypassing the lines though?